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Newly painted surfaces sticking together

Malconium's picture

I posted this question a while ago without response. I realized that my topic may have been missleading since I asked how to keep paint from sticking. I of course want my paint to stick to the things I apply it to. The problem is how do I keep it from sticking to other things it touches.


Just the other day I had to repair and repaint my back door. I had no alternative but to put it back up at the end of the day. When I went to open it the next morning I found that there were places where the new paint had stuck to the weather striping. Of course in opening the door some of the paint pulled off and stayed with the weather stripping. I have also seen this problem with other things I have painted. It seems to me that most water based paints even when properly installed over a good primer and etc. do not harden up right away. Painted kitchen shelves are another example. It seems like it takes sometimes even weeks for them to cure to the point that heavy things like china will not stick to them some.


So the question is:


Are there any tricks either to get the paint to harden faster or to prevent the paint from sticking to things it comes into contact with while if fully cures? I thought about using Vaseline or maybe even Chapstick or some such thing along the weather stripping (after the fact of course). What about using something like wax paper on my shelves at first? And just how long does it take for paint to cure enough anyway?

(post #58484, reply #1 of 16)

You might try automotive spray paints.  They have hardners and are very durable under direct sunlight.

You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.


Marv

You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

Marv

(post #58484, reply #2 of 16)

I'm interested in the answer to this too. I thought I had properly primed and painted our casement windows, allowed them to dry for several days before closing them, and they still stuck to the weather stripping. Sanded them and did it over (thinking that cool weather might have played a part) and the same thing happened. I'm doing something wrong, but not sure what.

(post #58484, reply #5 of 16)

Our windows guy taught us a trick.  But it takes some time.


When you paint windows, you have to go back every 15 minutes and move 'em up or down at least an inch.  Until dry.


No sticking.



HouseBlogs.net...DIY Geeks Rejoice

(post #58484, reply #6 of 16)

casements though...I don't know.  Leave 'em open until dry?



HouseBlogs.net...DIY Geeks Rejoice

(post #58484, reply #8 of 16)

I left them open for several days. I'd think the paint would dry in that time?

(post #58484, reply #3 of 16)

I believe it's referred to as "booking".


Back when I first started painting, I was told that it was due  to paint layers not being allowed to fully dry/cure before additional paint were applied.


It can also happen if the paint is overworked. You paint it, then back brush too late, or you paint it, then do a touch up a little too late.


Essentially, the additional coat, or the additional backbrushing or touching up, is preventing the initially applied paint from fully curing, so it always retains just a bit of tack.


I believe it's more prevalent with latex than alkyd.


Again...I could be wrong. I'm dredging this up from memory...info gleaned a long time ago in a galaxy far, far, away...


Curing is dependent on film thickness, temp, and humidity. You can tinker with the formulation...driers to hasten, other additives to retard...but I wouldn't recommend it.


Ask for info at your local paint shop.


There are 10 kinds of people in this world; those who understand binary and those who do not.


(post #58484, reply #4 of 16)

I've had good success rubbing the weatherstripping with a bar of paraffin.

If you have trouble getting the paraffin to transfer, alternately heat the end of the bar with a heat gun and apply some. Repeat.


Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

(post #58484, reply #7 of 16)

My other post hasn't shown up yet so I can't edit, but I should have mentioned...the proper term for sticking paint is "blocking". Locally some refer to it as "booking" due to books sticking on shelves.


Cause remains the same. Inadequate cure or inferior paint.


Edit: Did a quick Google, this is from Sherwim Wiliams:


BLOCKING: The undesirable sticking together of two painted surfaces, such as a door sticking to the jamb, or a window sticking to its frame.


Possible Factors:
• putting a door, window, or other item into service before the freshly applied paint is adequately dry
• use of a lower quality paint
• use of semi-gloss or gloss paint, which may tend to block more than flat paints or those with eggshell or satin sheen
• use of a highly tinted paint, which is more likely to stick than a light-colored paint
• use of an exterior latex paint for an indoor application

Solution: Applying talcum powder to both surfaces can be an immediate way to reduce blocking. If repainting, consider using paint with a lower sheen, e.g., a flat or satin finish, rather than a semi-gloss or gloss; if possible, switch to a lighter-colored paint. Most important, be sure to allow adequate drying time when applying fresh paint.


Hope this extra info helps.


Mongo


Edited 10/1/2003 12:31:55 PM ET by Mongo


There are 10 kinds of people in this world; those who understand binary and those who do not.


(post #58484, reply #9 of 16)

Every wonder way professions paint kitchen cabinets with oil based paint and not latex?  The reason in that oil based paints fully cure in just 1-3 days while latex paints are not fully cured for three weeks (even though they feel dry).  Painters will never as a housewife to not use her newly repainted cabinets for three weeks because they know they will not wait that long, hence they use oil based paints.


 


I have found that newly dried but not cured water based paints have a rubbery feel for the first two or three weeks.  After that time, the paint surface feels smooth and totally free of tack or rubbery feeling.  Experience has taught me that until a water based paint feels truly dried (three weeks), when you put something on it, it will often stick and lift off the paint.


 


I know of no easy solution.  A lacquer will dry very quickly and perhaps that is the way to go on doors, etc.  Or perhaps the weather stripping should be removed for a couple of weeks?


Bill


 

(post #58484, reply #11 of 16)

Another thing you might try is putting those thin plastic bags from the grocery store between the painted surface and the thing that has to be in contact with it.  If the bag sticks, it will usually not damage the paint if you turn it back on itself and peel it away parallel to the surface.


 


-- J.S.


 

 

 

-- J.S.

 

(post #58484, reply #10 of 16)

In this case I am probably going to have to replace the weather stripping anyway before I repaint the door where the paint has pulled off. There is now too much paint on the weather stripping. I can of course leave it off as long as necessary.


I might look into using lacquer in the future or maybe oil base. I certainly am getting tired of the results I get with acrylic even though it is nice to clean up. Is it any wonder that painting is my least favorite part of home construction?


In this case could I use some lacquer on top of the acrylic or would I have to strip off the recent new paint first? Any suggestions as to product names/brands? Is lacquer going to be available in a satin finish?

(post #58484, reply #12 of 16)

I am afraid I cann't answer your questions.  What I do know is that the unfully-cured paint has a weak interface with the surface below it.  If you cover it with lacquer will you avoid the problem...you will not make the interface stronger but perhaps you will keep the weatherstripping from pulling on the interface as forcefully.  I really do not know.  Sorry?  All I really know is that it takes at least 2 if not 3 weeks for the water based paints to fully cure.

(post #58484, reply #14 of 16)

Sand to bare wood and start over.


I only use oil-based on trim/doors/windows/cabinetry.


Prime, 24 hours, sand, tack cloth. First coat, 48 hours, then sand, tack cloth. Top coat.


There are 10 kinds of people in this world; those who understand binary and those who do not.


(post #58484, reply #15 of 16)

Most of the newer weather strippings are the type that insert into a slot in the jambs and they should be removed prior to painting.  Then when the door is closed at the end of the day they are left out for a few days more.  This usually decreases the danger of sticking to the point where it becomes a very minimal problem.  It is best to wax the surface of the magnetic type stripping but again these are often installed in slots and can be removed and replaced after the paint has dried for several days (they still need to be waxed though).

(post #58484, reply #13 of 16)

I installed a wood slider 5 years ago and painted it with Pratt and Lambert latex semigloss...it still sticks to the vinyl weatherstrip !

(post #58484, reply #16 of 16)

This is called blocking and happens with latex paint. The cheaper paints "Frazee" and the like do it worse than others. If you have access to a dunn edwards paint store they sell paint which will reduce this. I have see people put a fine film of ArmorAll on the gasket and that keeps it from sticking. They claimed it worked. Hope this helps.


Edited 10/6/2003 10:52:40 PM ET by noneoftheabove