Hello, We have a 1921 house. I put down reclaimed oak flooring (I pounded and pulled all the old nails out). The sub floor is T&G planking that wasn’t very tight, i.e., the were spaces between the tongue and groove. I put (2) 2″ inch screws at all the floor joists and used a good quality subfloor vapor barrier paper. Most of the reclaimed oak was less than a 12″ in length with a few over. I generally put two nails in with a non pneumatic floor nailer. I have terrible squeaks! Doubt there is much I can do, but my question is for the kitchen which I plan on starting soon. I’m wondering if the current sub flooring, being so old, just won’t handle new nails in it. It’d be a big job to pull the sub floor and put new down and I personally don’t like have different floor heights, e.g., just putting new subflooring on the existing subfloor. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.
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What did you use for nails? Wire finish nails won't work so if that's what you used you're in trouble. Old wives say sprinkle the floor with talcum and sweep it into the cracks. Won't make a poor job good but it might help.
"What did you use for
"What did you use for nails?"
Hi, thanks.
I used Porter Cable 15 GA. 1-3/4" 34 degree finsih nails (as on the box). Is that what you're referring to be wire finish nails?
What you're saying is the case, what should one use?
Therein lies your problem. To make it stop sqeaking you'll have to pull it up and reinstall with staples or flooring nails. The good news is that it will come up easy.
You need to use a flooring nailer or stapler. I would rent an air actuated one. They require you to hit the nailer with a mallet so as to force the flooring tight to the next plank. The rental place will also have the proper fasteners, and generally will sell partial cartons so you don't have to buy enough for several houses.
Ice
What type of screws were used for the subfloor, how wide the planks and was it run diagonally?
What length cleat or staple did you use?
how thick is the flooring?
thanks.
"What type of screws were
"What type of screws were used for the subfloor"
Thanks.
I used 'gold' 2" philips screwes. The planks are a 3/4 by 6 and run perpendicular to the floor joists.
I used an 1-3/4" angled finsih nail made for my floor nailer. I have a Senco manual.
Ice
how thick is the flooring?
you say finish nails and flooring nailer? Never saw that before. It's either cleat or staple in my experience.
The 2" screws for the subfloor are probably fine, you could judge by the way they grabbed during install. If they bottomed out b/4 they pulled down below the surface of the plank, then no they were not long enough.
Bung? Drill countersink hole, screw and plug the flooring.
"how thick is the flooring?"
"how thick is the flooring?" Opps, 3/4" solid oak. BTW, the sub foor is 3/4" too.
Thanks.
"Can you determine where the
"Can you determine where the squeaks are coming from?"
Thanks.
Yes, the "ends" are T&G. And, yes, that is where the squeaks are on some of them. Never thought to look there.
I'm pretty sure it is the oak flooring squeaking as I can pus the flooring down to make it squeak.
I have a construction friend who swears by the hammer nailer - says it creates a tigher fit. That's why I went that way, but I sure don't want noise in the kitchen floor.
Sorry, what is "bung" the oka?
Several bad choices
Several poor choices made here...all contributing to your problems
First, not fixing the floor planking...this is why so many old floors squeak. The shiplap or T&G flooring used back then was not kiln dried material and they all shrink - as much as 1/2" across the face of a board - this leave the tounge or lap edges unsupported of the lenght of the span...if it's put on diagonally, it makes the span of each board even longer. This means that instead of the adjacenet board helping to carry the load, each board deflects by itself. In almost every old house I have remodeled, they could have just as well used planks with no special edge treatment. You should have either replaced or laid plywood or OSB sheathing over the top.
Second, oak "shorts" are more prone to problems because they often don't even cover a single joist....longer boards cover multiple floor joists or sheathing boards.
Last....trim nails on for putting down a floor. There is almost no head on these nails and they have no grip..they were designed to put up trim, not something that deflects and moves constantly. Wrong tool and nails for the job.
Solution....I would try a couple of screws...either a 1 1/2" "trim head" wood screw (has a very small head - you will have to fill afterwards) or special screws for tightening squeaky floors called "Squeeeeeeek No More" - comes in a kit - sold at most of the big box stores. Might try it in a couple of areas and see how it works. Don't expect 100%, but you should see some improvement.
Kitchen...pull the boards and put down 3/4" plywood sheathing..It's a nasty job, but goes pretty quick...should only take a day... Rent a flooring gun for the job and use the right nails or staples..
" Last....trim nails on for
" Last....trim nails on for putting down a floor." Opps, another oversight. I used Senco 1-3/4: L Head. The other (in the post earlier) was used for up against the walls where I couldn't get the nailer in.
Wow, very good assessment! Thank you. It never crossed my mind that the spacing in the sub floor was from shrinkage.
As far as the 'shorts' go, that's what I've got and it's not any easier as this house was framed on 24" centers - everywhere.
I guessed about as much with pulling the sub flr and putting new down. I'm not a pro like you guys so here's my statement / question: I like plywood much better than OSB. It seems to me that plywood would have more holding power. What is your take?
Oh, one more question - would you suggest the new subfloor be glued to the joists?
Thanks again.
any subfloor material (advantech or similar) has the "holding" power your concerned about. if you use plywood make sure to use tongue and groove.
i prefer to glue it down when i can, but if you use a good screw, screwing it at the recommended fastening schedule will be fine.