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Painting new window glazing

cameraman's picture

Who long should I wait for new window glazing to dry before painting??



(post #86885, reply #1 of 24)

It's funny that you should ask that because I'll be glazing a window today and I was just thinking about how long I should wait.

I don't know the least amount of time to wait before it can be painted, but from experience it takes a very long time for the glazing to cure.  If it were my own home, I would wait a few weeks.  Oil primer, latex topcoat.

For the the customer's house I'll be working on today, I don't plan on painting it until they call me back for the next job.  That could be months or longer.  If I don't hear from them before winter AND I remember AND I'm not busy, I'll give them a call and go back and paint it then.

In the mean time, the window is well protected and not in direct sunlight so I'm sure it will hold up a long time.  If it were in direct sunlight, I would want to get paint on it with a month or so.

(post #86885, reply #2 of 24)

Long enough for the glazing to cure up, but not long enough for the mildew to take hold.

Maybe a week?

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(post #86885, reply #3 of 24)

I believe the recommendation is to wait about a week. When using the oil based glazing compound (the traditional stuff) I have painted it with latex paint the next day or possibly even immediately after applying the glazing compound and I have never seen any problems. When I am doing repair work, I figure painting immediately is better than never.

(post #86885, reply #4 of 24)

Thanks all!!

I was thinking at least a week.

I have some large Andersen casements that I plan on taking apart to scrape & paint. I didn't want the window apart to long. So think that I will prime the window, reglaze, and reinstall. Go back after the glazing cures and spot prime & topcoat!!


I hate window glazing!!!!


(post #86885, reply #5 of 24)

I've done it immediately with oil base primer and never a problem. Wait long enough so that the brush doesn't leave marks in the glazing compound is all, LOL



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(post #86885, reply #6 of 24)

I hate window glazing!!!!

Me too!  Maybe it's just me, but I find it takes a lot of time to get the glazing to look completely inconspicuous.  My technique (if it even deserves to be called a "technique") is to put on way too much and then tool off the excess.  It seems like I can never get a decent-looking filet if I use too little.

By the way, mostly as an experiment, I tried a tube of water-base glazing compound made by DAP.  It's applied with  a caulking gun and it has a tip designed to tool the compound as you apply it.

What a disaster!!! It's basically just caulk and way too thin to tool accurately.  I like the idea of water-based glazing compound, but this product doesn't pass the muster.  I removed it (at least clean-up was easy) and used conventional glazing compound.

(post #86885, reply #7 of 24)

one trick I've found when glazing is to use a REALLY clean putty knife.

no nicks, no scratches, buff the face with very fine sandpaper until its smooth

seems to make a difference when applying the putty

(post #86885, reply #8 of 24)

I've done quite a bit of window sash glazing. Lots of oil-based putty (ie. Dap 33), and even acrylic caulk.

The tool to use is a bent knife, and the ones that work well (Lamson being a favorite) have chrome plating to keep 'em slick.

The trick with oil-based putty is to work the stuff warm and soft and sticky in your hand and rough-fill the rabbet with a little more than will be needed. Then finish tool with the knife to achieve squeeze-out on both margins of the bead. You can roll up the excess and re-use.

This is kinda simple explanation. The old timers could (can) run a hella lot of glazing in a day, and a proficient glazier only needs to strike (tool) the bead once and it's done.

Edited 6/16/2009 9:35 pm by kenhill3

(post #86885, reply #9 of 24)



Is very easy to use and can be painted in a couple of hours :o)


(post #86885, reply #10 of 24)

I have read about that, pricey!! But looks like it would work.

Jeff, I assume you have tried it, results???????

Edited 6/17/2009 8:26 am ET by cameraman


(post #86885, reply #13 of 24)

I have used it with good results.



(post #86885, reply #14 of 24)

It is a siliconized acrylic. I'm thinking Alex Plus or similar will do just as well for a lot less money.

(post #86885, reply #11 of 24)

$13.45 for the tube and $13.45 plastic tool.



seeyou invented 13.45



(post #86885, reply #12 of 24)

I see the price on the website, but has anyone used it and is it worth the $$$$.



I am game to give it a try!!


(post #86885, reply #15 of 24)

If the quality of the material passes muster as carrying more valuable attributes thus of a better quality than a standard caulking

and a goodly number of windows are involved in a project

it looks as if it would be worth the investment in both products.

IMHO of course.


Edited 6/17/2009 12:58 pm ET by rez


(post #86885, reply #16 of 24)

Real men use Dap 33.

(post #86885, reply #17 of 24)

Years back somehow I got ahold of a caulking gun that ran off one of those old style inch and a half dia cylinder electric screwdriver deals.

It looked great in theory.



(post #86885, reply #18 of 24)

I had one that ran off air. I was not impressed, at all.

(post #86885, reply #22 of 24)

Real men use Azek glass stops. Paint immediatly and replacing a pane is a snap, pop off and reinstall.

(post #86885, reply #19 of 24)

I'm working on an extended project to refurbish the wood windows and sills at home. I ended up ordering 10 lb of Sarco putty from Winn Mtn Restorations in NH ( after reading about it on the Historic Homeworks forum. I've only done a couple of sashes so far, but they seemed to be good to go for painting after about 5 days. Still a little soft to the touch, but sufficiently skinned over.

I generally suck at anything that requires dexterity with a putty/taping knife. I've resigned myself to paying others for drywall work. But I'm doing OK at the putty using a clean 1.5" chisel-edged putty knife, as long as I use decisive strokes and don't overdo it.

I also have had good luck using a steamer to get old putty out.

(post #86885, reply #20 of 24)


Good reading!! I think where I went wrong on my last atempt at glazing, the type of oil primer seamed to mush up the glazing!!!!


(post #86885, reply #21 of 24)

BTW, on the Winn Mtn. Restorations site there is link to an episode of The Woodright's Shop that shows a visit to a belt-driven window sash shop. One of the coolest things I have ever seen. Check it out (20 minutes long):

Basement Window Glazing saga (post #86885, reply #23 of 24)

Glazing saga:

Anderson awning-style basement window with rotted bottom horizontal stop. High quality unit, not about to buy vinyl replacement.

Prep window. Carve out exterior rotted wooden bottom stop with razor knife. Prime with oil-base. Take Breaktime advice and buy a bent putty knife, glad I did. Big improvement over standard knife. Putty bottom stop area with DAP 33. Not overjoyed with puttying results but good enough. After taking exquisite care during all of these processes, in true boneheaded fashion, I break the !@#$%^& window.

Take broken window to hardware store. Hardware store subs it out to window guy. Window guy replaces three stops with original stops—pretty happy that he was able to do that. Window guy also re-putties bottom edge with putty--different stuff than 33, but workmanship still better than mine. Pickup window from hardware store. Paid under 20.00 for repair, which I thought then, and still think now, to be very reasonable.

On way out of hardware store, I ask guy what I should use for primer over the putty. He says it doesn’t matter, oil or latex. So I use latex; much easier cleanup. Probably should have used oil-base.

Wait approx. week and a half for putty to dry. Probably didn’t wait long enough. After performing “fingerprint test” I waited for another while, but still left recognizable fingerprint in putty with light pressure. Became impatient. Primed. It’s now been two weeks.

Primer over putty is still tacky. This is a problem. Not tacky enough to come off on my finger, but enough so that it mimics the stickiness of duct tape. Not ideally suitable to top coat with latex. Wait a few more days for primer to dry. No joy.

Tried to position window on table in basement as far as practicable out of wife’s likely travel path to and from laundry area.

Reroute heat duct on ceiling of basement so that it “shines” down directly on puttied edge of window.

Still not dry. What to do—let it sit under heating duct for a few more days? This, while hot air pours out of erstwhile window well in basement through, and around, temporary “patch” which is more like “sieve”? Go back and forth again with heat gun; or put coat of latex exterior paint over sticky primer and call it a day?

Mike Hess

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I leave it overnight.  (post #86885, reply #24 of 24)

I leave it overnight.