From NEC 406.5:
Receptacles in pendant boxes are permitted, provided the box is supported from the flexible cord in accordance with 314.23(H)(I). A pendant box that is properly suspended is not required to be securely fastened in place.
This sounds like something for our garage, which has no electrical outlets. Well, there’s one outlet which was put in when the door openers were installed, but it’s mounted to the ceiling. So there is no convenient outlet.
I found pictures that show the pendant receptacle, but not how the other end is connected. There are also some references to the need for “strain relief” at one or both ends of the cord.
How is a pendant receptacle installed? Does the other end of the cord simply lead into a junction box and clamp?
Janet
Replies
Both ends should be secured to a box with a suitable clamp. (And, obviously, one of the boxes should be secured to the structure.)
I have 2 ceiling mounted reel cords in my garage for power tools but it is also handy to have a wall mounted receptacle or two..
http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-800-Professional-Retractable-30-Foot/dp/B000256R9G/ref=zg_bs_495306_6
You could plug this into your garage door opener receptacle if you have an extra. If not, it sounds like you are getting the hang of putting in another box. ;)
The reel is an easier solution, thanks! The cord is rated for 10 amps, which I'm assuming is sufficient for a router or table saw.
The ceiling receptacle needs to be upgraded to GFCI, right?
Janet
The standard reel unit is a little iffy for a full-fledged table saw. Not as much the size of the wire as its length.
You can get those reel cords in 14 gauge but if I was running a larger tool like a table saw I would install a wall outlet.
The pendant isn't that hard. I'd use a length of "Liquatite" plastic covered flex conduit, rather than rubber cord. Use a "weatherproof" outlet box on the bottom end (more durable and fewer holes to accidentally stick something in) and whatever box you can readily fasten to the ceiling on the top. The top box needs to be arranged with a suitable hole in the box facing down. Get the proper clamps for the conduit and fasten them tightly to the conduit. And you know how to wire it by now.
The problem with true pendants is you should be using twist lock plugs and that ends up making this fairly inconvenient for general use. Typically they just use hard service cords, the proper cord grip and a L-xx-R receptacle (xx being the appropriate voltage and amp NEMA code)
Thinking bigger
The cable for the door opener enters the garage through a low hole in the shared wall (20 inches above the floor). I could add a cable at that point and run it (in conduit) horizontally around the garage, adding several wall-mounted receptacles.
There's a web article that recommends using pvc conduit and stranded THHN wire (http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/installing-pvc-conduit). Would you agree? I've no experience with either.
Janet
P.S.
I just noticed how the existing conduit makes two 90° bends where the wall meets the ceiling:
14013083768
That allows it to stay flat against the concrete. Clever—is that the usual way of going around a corner?
PVC is certainly easier to work with. I don't think it looks as nice but that is just me maybe. The biggest problem is it will sag on horizontal runs if it is not supported every 3 feet or so and there are expansion issues in unconditioned spaces.
If the garage ceiling is unfinished you could just use Romex and protect the wire coming down the walls in EMT or PVC. Some jurisdictions will even allow Romex stapled to running boards on the garage wall.