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Plank Support

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Plank Support (post #185536)

Scott on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 11:11
in

I've got an un-sided wall that I need to do some work on high up on a gable end. For various reasons ladders and scaff are difficult to use in this location.


Does anyone know of a steel brace that can be fastened through to studs that will hold up a plank? See the pic.

 

Thanks,

 

Scott.

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Have you given pump jacks  a (post #185536, reply #1 of 35)

by calvin in reply to Scott [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 11:49

Have you given pump jacks  a thought?

B/4 my house was sided I did use brackets and planks (homemade) to cling to the side of the house.  Really not the most comfortable. 

For siding I invested in pumpjacks (not the alumapole style-these ride up a 4x4 or 2-2x4's).

Much better, safer easier and they accept a 24'' aluminum pic.

 

There used to be a slip style and bolt on angled brace offered that is precisely what you are looking for.  Not sure of where to look tho, sorry.  Interior finish would be compromised if this is the case.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

>>>Have you given pump jacks  (post #185536, reply #2 of 35)

by Scott in reply to calvin [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 12:11

>>>Have you given pump jacks  a thought?


Perhaps. I certainly won't buy them (this is a one-time, maybe two-time task). But I'd consider renting them.

 

I thought about making the braces like you did, but I'm chickening out. Something beefy out of steel might work though, if they're made for the job.

>>>Interior finish would be (post #185536, reply #3 of 35)

by Scott in reply to calvin [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 12:24

>>>Interior finish would be compromised if this is the case.

 

Why is that? The vision I had was to use 3" screws through the brace, through the sheathing, and into the 2x6 studs. Does the unit you describe pentrate further?

Scott, the homemade brackets (post #185536, reply #4 of 35)

by calvin in reply to Scott [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 12:51

Scott, the homemade brackets I did were 2x6 angled and bolted to the stud (2x6 also).  However the brackets I saw a while ago were steel and hooked around the backside of the stud and were fastened also I believe.

Lemme do a search and see if I can find them.

 

A builder that used to frequent here used some-Dieselpig.  If all else fails I'll email him for some info.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

>>>However the brackets I saw (post #185536, reply #5 of 35)

by Scott in reply to calvin [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 13:02

>>>However the brackets I saw a while ago were steel and hooked around the backside of the stud and were fastened also I believe.

 

That explains the concern about interior finish. Not an option for me, unfortunately.

This is one that I was (post #185536, reply #6 of 35)

by calvin in reply to Scott [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 13:06

This is one that I was thinking of that probably won't work either.

http://www.wallwalker.com/

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

Scott, I'm convinced (post #185536, reply #7 of 35)

by calvin in reply to Scott [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 13:29

Scott, I'm convinced after searching that this is such an unsafe method that any that were on the market are probably gone.

check this out.

http://www.doli.state.mn.us/OSHA/PDF/hazalert_carpbrackets.pdf

Essentially this talks about Carpenters brackets and the pitfalls.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

>>>Scott, I'm convinced (post #185536, reply #8 of 35)

by Scott in reply to calvin [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 13:36

>>>Scott, I'm convinced after searching that this is such an unsafe method that any that were on the market are probably gone.

Yeah, you're probably right.

If I can figure out a way to get a ladder in there, I might be able to use the ones that support a plank off the rungs of a ladder:

http://www.amazon.com/Qual-Craft-2420-Al...

I really appreciate your time, thanks.

Glad I couldn't help out very (post #185536, reply #9 of 35)

by calvin in reply to Scott [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 13:42

Glad I couldn't help out very much.

Ladder jacks are ok, again, not for the timid.

Limited in the set up because of stand off of the ladders.........and the need to get the plank across.

Pump jacks?  Need a ladder to anchor the brackets and poles, but after that, all loading on the ground and one man (if you must) raising up to where you get the view.

Or, a genie lift which isn't made for a man, but feasible.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

That is the one we use. My (post #185536, reply #17 of 35)

by Piffin in reply to calvin [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 12:53

That is the one we use. My guys will jump on them before they will set up pump jacks any day. personally, I like pump jacks, but these ae a good choice three stories up on a new frame, to do the fascia and sofit, and start up the roof. Then we set pump jacks to the fascia later to walk up the siding.

 

 


or try this site for the whole gang

http://forums.delphiforums.com/breaktimeclass/start

Sounds like the best and (post #185536, reply #10 of 35)

by jes82677 in reply to Scott [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 16:16

Sounds like the best and easiest thing here is to just rent a arial lift for a day or two.  Problem solved.

This appears to be roughly (post #185536, reply #11 of 35)

by DanH in reply to Scott [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 19:52

This appears to be roughly what you're talking about, though it's hard to tell what the attachment scheme is:  http://www.daytonsuperior.com/a01_CoilsT...


This country will not be a permanently good place for any of us to live in unless we make it a reasonably good place for all of us to live in.  --Theodore Roosevelt

>>>though it's hard to tell (post #185536, reply #12 of 35)

by Scott in reply to DanH [original] on Tue, 03/02/2010 - 20:48

>>>though it's hard to tell what the attachment scheme is


And there's the rub.... it relies on a steel plate on the opposite side of the wall to hold it. Sort of like the ones that Calvin was suggesting that reached around to the other side of the studs.

After some serious pondering today I've decided that a ladder jack may work at one end of the plank, and a roof jack planted on a hip roof at the other. We'll see.


Thanks a mil.

 

Scott.

You could always build your (post #185536, reply #13 of 35)

by DanH in reply to Scott [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 06:59

You could always build your own scaffolding.  Sometimes that's the only way to go.


This country will not be a permanently good place for any of us to live in unless we make it a reasonably good place for all of us to live in.  --Theodore Roosevelt

I've worked off of roof (post #185536, reply #14 of 35)

by fingers in reply to Scott [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 11:14

I've worked off of roof jacks, ladder jacks, pump jacks (wooden poles), alumapoles, pipe scaffolding, and a mechanical lift.

My thoughts are: 

1)Roof jacks are needed when they're needed.

2) Ladder jacks are quick but they can be scary up high.  Nice to have some kind of safety plank or pic behind you. 

3)Pump jacks (wooden poles) are tempermental and can be absolutely terrifying, but they're cheap. 

4) Alumapoles are nice  when you have to walk back and forth alot vs. staying in one place and are especially nice when you've got good pics and safety nets, but they can be pricey if you buy them new. 

5) Pipe scaffolding is really nice, particularly if you're going to be working in one area for awhile.  It can be expensive to buy especially if you get the proper bases, outriggers, grouser bars and accessories, but it lasts forever if stored out of the weather, and it is surprisingly cheap to rent.  I bought mine new at Scaffoldmart.com but it often comes up on Craig's List.  The reason I bought new was to make sure all the accessories were compatible.

6) A mechanical lift (JLG,  Genie, Grove etc) is very nice but the one disadvantage I see is if you have to work across the broad face of a building, the alumapole type set up will be better for efficiency.  The larger self-propelled ones gain their stability from their massive weight vs the smaller towable ones that gain their stability from the outriggers so you've got to consider what you're driving over.

The balance point between safety and productivity is really up to you.  I tend to be extra cautious but I've seen people taking what I would consider to be unnecessary risks on pipe scaffolding and I've worked on rusty wooden pump jacks 30 feet up and felt absolutely safe and secure because I know I placed them and braced them.

Another thing to consider is getting help  with the hardest, or more dangerous part of the set up.  Asking or paying a friend to help set poles or carry the other end of the pic up to the ladder jack doesn't take long and can really make your life easier and safer.

If I were you and this job needed to be repeated every five or even ten years,  I'd think  a long time about all the different options with the different systems to get you up in the air and consider safety, cost (rent vs buy), ease of set up, ease of storage, and anything else I haven't thought of.

>>>and anything else I (post #185536, reply #15 of 35)

by Scott in reply to fingers [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 11:33

>>>and anything else I haven't thought of.

That was a heck of a summary, thanks.

I think I'll start with the ladder and roof jack combo.

 

...and yes, I'll be wearing a climbing harness and rope tied off to the ridge beam.

We use wall jacks that look (post #185536, reply #16 of 35)

by Piffin in reply to Scott [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 12:47

We use wall jacks that look just like that. They are made of steel and haVE A 3/4" WALBOLT ABOUT 8" Long with a large wing nut for inside the wal. We place a scrap of 2x6 or 2x8 with a hoile drilled in it on the inside of the studwall so the load is carried on at least two studs. Drill hole in the shething and set the bracket to that, the the 2x8 "washer" on the inside.

 

 


or try this site for the whole gang

http://forums.delphiforums.com/breaktimeclass/start

>>>We use wall jacks that (post #185536, reply #18 of 35)

by Scott in reply to Piffin [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 14:39

>>>We use wall jacks that look just like that.

Thanks for that, but this house is finished on the interior.

How high is high? How much (post #185536, reply #19 of 35)

by Snort in reply to Scott [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 16:32

How high is high? How much weight is involved? How long are you going to be working off this rigging?

It sounds like you've got a roof in the way, at least on one side.  Are there any windows you can hook a bracket into?

I've also made brackets that pressure fit against walls.

When I've got a weird staging problem,  I talk to one my painters. They have to figure out some strange accesses.

Any pics?

The pucker factor can be fun<G>

www.tvwsolar.com

The Village Woodworks, Inc

Chapel Hill, NC

 

We'll have a kid Or maybe we'll rent one He's got to be straight We don't want a bent one He'll drink his baby brew From a big brass cup Someday he may be president If things loosen up

>>>It sounds like you've got (post #185536, reply #20 of 35)

by Scott in reply to Snort [original] on Wed, 03/03/2010 - 21:41

>>>It sounds like you've got a roof in the way, at least on one side.


You've obviously got a keen ability to visualize things. Yes, there are a number of obstacles in the way, creating some serious "pucker factor" (at least for my abilities).

These include deck, hip roof hung off of gable end, and a rock wall that creates a pit where I would normally put scaff. I'll shoot some pics and post tomorrow.

Here's the problem, and a (post #185536, reply #21 of 35)

by Scott in reply to Scott [original] on Thu, 03/04/2010 - 15:02

Here's the problem, and a carpy drawing showing what I'm thinking.

PreviewAttachmentSize
gable1.jpg
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gable2.jpg
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ladder.jpg78.62 KB

Heck, just run a plank across (post #185536, reply #22 of 35)

by DanH in reply to Scott [original] on Thu, 03/04/2010 - 16:14

Heck, just run a plank across from that deck, stand a ladder on it, and you're good to go!


This country will not be a permanently good place for any of us to live in unless we make it a reasonably good place for all of us to live in.  --Theodore Roosevelt

>>>Heck, just run a plank (post #185536, reply #24 of 35)

by Scott in reply to DanH [original] on Thu, 03/04/2010 - 21:16

>>>Heck, just run a plank across from that deck, stand a ladder on it, and you're good to go!

LOL. I have have done just that for some jobs. But this job involves ripping the sheathing off to replace insulation that birds have been nesting in, putting it back on, then applying wall shingles. I really need a plank to walk back and forth.

The picture is worth a (post #185536, reply #23 of 35)

by calvin in reply to Scott [original] on Thu, 03/04/2010 - 18:23

The picture is worth a thousand words.

Here's what I would do, I think.

Hook a padded ladder over that ridge on the metal roof.  You could make one if you have to.

Use another ladder with a ladder jack like you have pictured.

Plank from one to the other, move up as necessary.  No penetrations necessary into that metal roof.  Put a cleat on the right end of the plank so it hooks onto the rung of the ladder you've got on the roof.

And of course, remove any stakes and other puncturing objects from below.

Best of luck.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

>>>Hook a padded ladder over (post #185536, reply #25 of 35)

by Scott in reply to calvin [original] on Thu, 03/04/2010 - 21:23

>>>Hook a padded ladder over that ridge on the metal roof.  You could make one if you have to.


I'll definitely start with that, and I do have ladder hooks. It may work.


But if you look at the first pic, you'll see a 2' deep overhang which sets the hook (and ladder) quite far back from the wall.

So plan B might be the the roof jacks.

Plan C could be to use a ladder like you describe, but instead of a hook I've got some strips of nylon webbing which you loop around a rung, remove a fastener, and drive it back through the webbing. It's made specifically for securing ladders to metal roofs.

I'll let you know what I end up doing.

I've always had quite a keen (post #185536, reply #27 of 35)

by Snort in reply to Scott [original] on Wed, 03/10/2010 - 06:13

I've always had quite a keen grasp of the obvious<G>

Personally, I'd have everytning mentioned above on the job. I have a plywood roof hook I made for metal, and I use split pipe insulation on the ladder rails.

Metal pipe strap works well  for fastening roof jacks after removing and replacing the roofing screws..

Looks like you could lay a ladder on the roof, under the overhang.

Some old couch cushions from padding and keeping stuff sliding.

Brace to keep bouncing down... and good luck... or like I said, get a painter to help you LOL

www.tvwsolar.com

The Village Woodworks, Inc

Chapel Hill, NC

 

We'll have a kid Or maybe we'll rent one He's got to be straight We don't want a bent one He'll drink his baby brew From a big brass cup Someday he may be president If things loosen up

>>>Looks like you could lay a (post #185536, reply #28 of 35)

by Scott in reply to Snort [original] on Wed, 03/10/2010 - 10:31

>>>Looks like you could lay a ladder on the roof, under the overhang.

 

'zackly. That's what I'm using the nylong webbing for, although your idea of the piping strap would work too as long as I'm careful not to scratch the roof with it.


I'm going to give it a go this Saturday. I'd like to get it cleaned up and buttoned up before this year's birds return to take up residence.

There is plastic strapping! (post #185536, reply #31 of 35)

by Snort in reply to Scott [original] on Thu, 03/11/2010 - 05:40

There is plastic strapping! Also works well for tying tops of laddders to walls, roofs... etc.

 

And stake (or tie off)  the bottom of a ladder layed on a roof.

www.tvwsolar.com

The Village Woodworks, Inc

Chapel Hill, NC

 

We'll have a kid Or maybe we'll rent one He's got to be straight We don't want a bent one He'll drink his baby brew From a big brass cup Someday he may be president If things loosen up

When I was a kd the builder I (post #185536, reply #26 of 35)

by paddy984 in reply to Scott [original] on Mon, 03/08/2010 - 07:58

When I was a kd the builder I worked for used to make his own brackets out of plywood & 2X4s. He would run a long 2x4 from 90 degree angle (between the plywood) to the ground and stake it. The weight keeps the planks and brackets to the wall so no finish is disturbed.
 I was too young to remember all the bracing details and I don't know what would keep the system from racking. So every time I've stsrted to use them now a days I chicken out.

If any one knows what i'm talking about and where to find some plans I would appreciate an Email. I can't find any plans anywhere.

                                      Paddy

Don't risk serious injury, (post #185536, reply #29 of 35)

by crazycorms in reply to Scott [original] on Wed, 03/10/2010 - 18:18

Don't risk serious injury, rent an arial lift if you can operate it on the site.  If the terrain is suspect then rent a lull with a work platform.  It  just isn't worth the risk not to be as safe as possible.  Bill the client for the rental.  Nobody wins when someone gets hurt or killed!!!

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