Roughed a house and had a leak put additional glue on joint and leak stopped. Will this hold long term? Seems like joint is sealed all the way around. Removing this 90 needs lots of work…because the non leaking end is a street end. Thanks
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Just am not sure of the leak starting again....call back rip ceiling down and etc....
Can tell you what I did in own house with a similar situation
Wrap the offending joint in 4-5 wraps of fiberglas drywall tape - then wipe the FG tape with polyesther boat resin or other epoxy.
Got one like that has been good for 41 years.
Maybe, maybe not. The "maybe
Maybe, maybe not. The "maybe not" part would .make me replace it now. Did you do it or did the plumber?
why tempt fate & risk future problems..............
I would suggest that you fill the dwv piping with water until it reaches the highest roof vent, let it sit for 24 hours, and double check all the pipe and connections. It is fairly simple to repair any leaks before floors, walls, & ceilings are closed in with drywall...................make sure to re - test after any repairs are made.
Of course for that you need a DD.
The extra glue you put on is just at the mouth of the fitting, so there's a risk that expansion/contraction over time will start the leak again.
Junkhound's fix will work, so you'll have to decide if that's easier than cutting out several fittings and replacing whatever is needed.
If you're concerned that the glue may not flex with the joint and crack, why not try something more flexible?
I've had good luck with Goop's Plumbing Sealer from HD. It remains flexible after it cures and has saved my bacon several times.
I just apply it over the existing clean, dry joint.
Bob.