I removed wall to wall carpeting from interior stairs, added screws to the 3/4″ plywood subtreads, installed 3/4″ X 10 1/2″ solid Red Oak Treads with PL Construction Adhesive, and 15 ga finish nails ( 2 nails into each of the 3 stringers). 12 treads in total….10 are squeak free. 2 squeak a little depending on where your foot hits the treads. I want to stop the occassional squeaks. I plan to use trim head screws. Where is the best place to put the screws? One in each stringer midway between the nails? Two in each stringer near the front and back edges of the tread? Or don’t position them to hit the stringers and just into the subtread. I’m guessing it’s a nail rub because I used a nail set to set one of the nails a little deeper and the squeak stopped for a while and then came back.
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If you've got access from below, shoot some screws up.
Resecure Stair Treads
I don't have access from below.
Did you install a slip sheet between the rough and finish tread? Your squeaks may be coming from the junction of the tread and riser. Try some talcum power blow into the crack and see if it stops the noise. If it does you may have to take the steps apart and glue that joint.
Slip Sheet
I'm not familiar with a slip sheet. Where does it go? I used construction adhesive to attach finish tread to rough (sub) tread. The tread sits tight on the riser and the top of the riser is level with the subtreads. Where there were small gaps I installed small shims or forced in construction adhesive. Removing the treads is not really an option as I have reinstalled all the balusters, end caps, scotia under the end caps, etc.
That's unfortunate.
Find the squeaky spots, counterbore and screw, and use matching face-grain plugs. Stand on the tread when you're screwing to hold it tight. Trouble with this method though is that it encourages cracking in the treads. Twelve inches of plain-sawn oak wants to move quite a bit.
Oak treads
Thank you. Hopefully I can get it done with a minimal number of screws. Also, the treads are built with individual glued up staves...maybe help prevent cracking. I've installed hardwood throughout the house (with your book always nearby) and do whatever is necessary to keep the rh at optimal levels throughout the year with humidifier in winter and dehumidifier and a/c in summer.
Your humidity control should go a long way to minimizing problems. Consistent RH is a good thing.
Humidity Control
In the summer we use central a/c and run a dehumidifier in the unfinished basement. I never realized how low the humidity gets during the winter until I got a humidistat when I started my first hardwood install during the winter. I bought a whole house humidifier to make sure the flooring was properly acclimated before I started installing it. I don't mean to sound like a broken record but your book really did an excellent job of explaining rh and wood mc.
Thanks.
Very glad you found it helpful.