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Recessed Lights - Juno vs. Halo

KesslerCraftsman's picture


I'm ready to purchase and install 16 cans in my old house.

The local electrical supply stocs Juno and Halo...both are within a couple of dollars of each other..on the cans as well as on comparable trim.

Do any experienced folks have a recommendation about one brand or another?

Can anyone explain what an R-20 bulb is?  I see Par20s..but never R-20s.

I'll use a hole saw to cut the holes..since I've gott wood lath behind the sheetrock/plaster.  Is one Milwaukee hole saw going to suffice?  Can those be sharpened by a competent sharpener?

Thanks in advance!


(post #72899, reply #1 of 4)

If you're installing in a plaster ceiling covered with sheetrock, you may have to make a slight modification to some units.   I just finished a bath  and I had to lengthen the  slot that allows the can to come flush with the finished surface.



Insert initially amusing but ultimately annoying catch phrase here.

(post #72899, reply #2 of 4)

"Can anyone explain what an R-20 bulb is? I see Par20s..but never R-20s."

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Jack Lindsey

Registered: 10/04/00
Posts: 292
Loc: Grants Pass, OR USA
Re: PAR20 vs R20 Incadescant Reflector Bulb [Re: BRETTFAN2001]
#2434770 - 06/04/06 12:37 AM
Edit post Edit Reply to this post Reply Reply to this post Quote

An R lamp is made from soft lime glass and is intended for indoor use or for outdoor use only in locations protected from moisture. The envelope is blown as one piece and the filament is inserted from the base. Precise positioning is thus not possible.

A PAR lamp is made from heat resistent borosilicate glass and may safely by used in outdoor environments where exposed to moisture. The reflector and lens are molded as separate pieces and welded together after the filament is installed from the front of the lamp. This permits precise positioning of the filament.

The PAR lamp has superior light distribution control.

. William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

(post #72899, reply #3 of 4)

No feedback on the can light thing, but I have used a holesaw (4") on plaster.

If you use plain old bimetal saws, figure on one or (maybe) two openings per holesaw. The plaster will take the teeth right off, so don't even waste time with the resharpening thing.

The carbide tipped ones go right through Hardie board (woo hoo baby), so they should do just fine on plaster. I would keep the speed down. Yes, they are expensive. Maybe 4 holes per saw- more if you use one till it is dull on just the plaster and use a sharp one on the lath. They aren't available at the local big box- professional tool places and Amazon has them.

Holesaw nirvana = Lenox carbide tipped :)

Electrical supply houses might have the carbide grit ones, but I have not used one of those. They only cut about an inch deep, but the rest would be cut with a regular holesaw. 

Another approach is to score the plaster with a holesaw and finish it with a Sawzall or jigsaw. It works, but sometimes there is damage. Change blades often.

Safety glasses/goggles and a mask are recommended.

Spot twice, cut once :)


(post #72899, reply #4 of 4)

Check into lightolier cans, all the electrician's around here will not touch the big box crap like halo's.  They are a north east company, so I don't know if they sell nationwide but they are much better than the two you listed.