Hi,
This is what I was told about sheathing…..
“Framing is what gives structural integrity to the house. Support is in the studding NOT the sheathing. It doesn’t matter if the sheathing is installed horizontally in 16″ widths . The seams do not need to be supported.(or nailed into any backing)Nailing the 2 edges to the studs is adequate. The sheating is just COSMETIC something to nail the vinyl /cladding into.”
Does sheathing play any other role in the building process other than just providing a surface to nail on the exterior vinyl or cladding? I think it does.
Replies
In conventional wood frame construction, if there is no rigid sheathing (ie, foamboard doesn't count) then there MUST be some sort of diagonal bracing. Absent the diagonal bracing the sheathing must be present and must be installed with sufficient fasteners, etc, to assure it does it's job.
(Quit farting around with this guy and get yourself a good lawyer.)
racking resistance
I don't know what your specific problem is, but look through IRC R602. There might be something in there for you.
R602.3(1) has a table for fastening schedules, look in the left column at items 32 for half-inch ply if that's what you're using. I tried cutting and pasting the tables into the post. Looks good until I hit "post" then it all turns to gibbereish. But tht'll be your vode refeence if code compliance becomes an issue.
It all translates into the graphic that Mike posted.
Mongo, yeah that's a cool graphic... I'm off to google now.
Not too sure how seriously some of the carpenter's around here take nailing schedules. They'll save money where they can. From looking at the graphic it matters to the rigidity of the structure.
Here's a link to the 2012 version of R602. If you to to that page and click on the link in the upper left corner of the page "IRC for 1- and 2-Family Dwellings" it'll take you to earlier versions of the code.
Might save you from some clicking.
http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_6_sec002.htm
Sheathing or diagonal bracing provides the lateral resistance to wind and earthquake loads. Studs can only support the vertical loads. Earthquakes are not all that common in Eastern Canada, but strong windstorms are.
Cripple walls are the weak point in most houses ( for those that have them), since there is often no interior sheathing or drywall to share these side loads. and often no interior partitions in basement to provide other load paths.
That sheathing needs to go from the sill plate to the upper plate, and be properly nailed on all sides. 2" long spiral nails, 6" spacing along the edges, 12" spacing along any other support. If using nail guns, 2" nails, 4" spacing along the edges, 8" spacing for the intermediate supports.
That sill plate also need to be properly bolted to the foundation.
Do not take no for an answer, this is a SERIOUS problem.
Google "cripple wall failure" for examples. Mostly due to earthquakes, but a good wind storm ( hurricane) can do the same thing.
I think you should be talking to a laywer. Also, talk with the carpenter that gave you the warning; see if there is someone else that could take over and get this fixed properly.
Sheathing.
Whoever told you that about sheathing was either a liar or an idiot, don't overlook the posibilty of both. If you had a box with no ends, lying on its side, it would collapse pretty easily. Put on the ends and it becomes ridgid. The ends are the sheathing. They think you are the idiot. Has he offered a reach-around?
My comment.
My comment was pretty vulgar but I haven't been ejected (yet).
I think you'd be wasting your time hiring a lawyer. Spend that extra money on hiring a professional G.C. to contract your unfinished and/or fualty job. You'll probably need it.
Hi guys,
Nothing much has happened since early last week. The old crappy sheathing was taken down on Monday and NEW SHEATHING installed. Looks good.
I'm a bit confused when it comes to the foundation Cripple walls. Take a look at the following pictures and let me know what you think.
Here are a few ?'s
1. Are sill plates usually 2X4? The cripple Foundation wall is made up of 2X6 unpressure treated wood. is that typical?
2. When it comes to CFW how many nails are needed to nail that down properly? I noticed only (1 nail) per every 16" on center was used and in some cases 24" on center. The nail was driven in approx. 1 1/4" in from the edge of the 2X6. Looks like a 3 1/2" smooth concrete nail. shouldn't you have a nail on either side of the 2X6 bottom plate?
3. Are the vertical cripples nailed directly to the sill or can they be constructed like you see in the pics. Nailed to a unpressure treated bottom plate? Should there be blocking between the cripples?If you look at the top plate of the cripple wall... should the seams meet over a cripple?
4. Why am I seeing light shining through if the cripple wall is nailed to the sill? should't that cripple wall be flush at the bottom?
If you look at the bottom plate of the cripple wall you'll see a single nail barely going into the concrete where the seam is.
when looking at the cripple wall pics you'll notice that that the 2X6 bottom plate is making contact here and there with the concrete and it is unpressure treated wood. It's actually up off the concrete in spots. that concrete "ledge" you see in front of the bottom plate is 1 3/4" ledge. there's enough room to slip a shim under there! If only I had a feeler gauge to see just how much space was beneath that bottom plate in some areas. Why the light shining through? if the cripple foundation wall is supposed to be secured to the sill plate???? that's what puzzles me.
They are going to sweep off the concrete bits and use some type of Black caulk to run around the edge of the cripple wall. not sure what product they have in mind. There was nobody on site today to ask. Still waiting on the vinyl and house wrap. Contractor said the carpenter would be on site today but something or other must have come up. God knows what because I'm in the dark. All I know is the main carpenter is out sick and the contractor said he'd have to find someone else to fill in. Another day wasted.
cripple foundation wall
Hi,
forgot to attach the pics.. so here they are
The main reason to see a lawyer is to make sure that you are not opening yourself to a lawsuit or a lien claim from the current contractor, if you fire him and get someone else to finish / correct the job.
Hello again catmandeuxi,
forgot to ask youi what you meant by flashing at the wall joints, Are you referring to the interior of the basement? Please Tell me more about that particular flashing and how you'd install it.. Most likely pink fibergalss installation will be used with a plastic vapour barrier. Spray in insulation would be the best option but too expensive. There are no plans to turn that basement into a living space.
Flashing:
The joint between the concrete and the siding should have some flashing to prevent water from getting into the sill / base plate area. Can be done by overlapping the siding as shown on attached pdf ( from CMHC Best Practices guides)
Pictures from you other posts showed the sheathing attached to the base plate, stopping above the sill plate. If that is still the case, then the siding will stop short of the wall junction. Some flashing to cover that joint and get the water coming off the siding away from the foundation is required.
Head flashing ( at top ) will be required for the windows, but that could be part of the siding install. With the house warp up and the windows in, you should see some butyl ( rubber) strips on the bottom of the window framing. Dupont has some installation guides to show how it should be done, you can see if yours has been done properly. http://www.dupont.ca/en/products-and-services/construction-materials/building-envelope-systems/articles/how-to-install.html
Insulation:
Current code requirements for basement wall insuallation is R17 or R19, depending on your location. (This includes the concrete part)
If you are insulating the concrete with exterior insulation, then a water table needs to be constructed to cover the top of the inuslation and tied into the house wrap. If you are insulating inside, suggest you have a look at this Best Practice Guide, Full Height Basement Insulation: http://www.mah.gov.on.ca/Asset8275.aspx?method=1
Thanks for the info Catmandeux,
I think the vinyl siding is the least of my worries right now. This work has been shoddy from the very beginning. I am not on the work site but will be come Sat. I'll have to take a few more pics. There seems to be a problem with the installation of the basement door. What next I wonder. They are really dragging their heels. I don't want to let a week go by where no work is done. The trench has to be filled asap. The foundation was poured before June 28th. what's been done since????? a cripple wall was constructed and sheathing installed. The basement door and windows were put in this week. August is just around the corner. The contractor needs to get that foundation coating on and the foundation backfilled. He does not need to wait for the vinly to come in... what nonsense!!!!!! why is he stalling.... Plenty of work to do while he waits for the vinly to come in. The men ran out of insulation yesterday so the housewrap job isn't finished. Do they know how to measure???????????? they should have had plenty of material to work with. I'm sick of these delays.
This contractor has to be let go. I have to get a written estimate now from an excavating company in the area.. enough farting around!
It's a bit late to mention this, but in a situation like this, as soon as a project seems to be going south (if not before) one should begin keeping a diary/log of all of the activities of each day, your observations as to potential problems (with pictures, if possible), conversations with the contractor and his minons, etc.
Yes, I have been doing just that.
This man operates a landscaping company but that doesn't mean he's a building contractor. If hiring a professional contractor to work on your home your contract should include the company's BN or GST/HST number. A contractor that cannot provide you with this number either does very little work each year or is operating illegally. The number tells you that the compnay has registered with the goverment and it's company ownershiip information is on file. (we know he must have a BN because he operates a lanscaping business).
Will have to get in touch with the contractor and find out how we're going to proceed.
As a homeowner you have the right to hold back a portion of all payments (10%)to your contractor for a set period of time (30 days), this protects you from claims if the contractor fails to pay suppliers and subcontractors.
toolbabe wrote:
Yes, I have been doing just that.
No kidding. This thread alone could serve as your jobsite journal.
As a homeowner you have the right to hold back a portion of all payments (10%)to your contractor for a set period of time (30 days), this protects you from claims if the contractor fails to pay suppliers and subcontractors.
Not really. 10% may not be enough to cover a claim from a subcontractor or supplier.
Alas, it's not too unusual to discover that an unscrupulous contractor has paid none of his suppliers and subcontractors. This tends to happen when he's been falling farther and farther in the red and using the payments from one job to pay off the debts of the prior one.
Do tell . . .
That pretty well sums up what our contractor did twenty years ago: stiffed most of his subs as he was desperately trying to stay afloat (or upright: in Japan, this is what's called a jitensha sougyou, a "bicycle business," i.e., you stay upright only so long as you're going forward, robbing peter to pay paul, etc.). Most unfortunately, it's coming back to bite us now, but I'll save that for a future message--or series of messages.
foundation cripple wall aka Pony Wall
Hi Catmandeux,
Here are 2 pics taken of the cripple wall. I was able to poke my index finger underneath some of those cripples. Now just look at that Gap beneath the cripple stud!!!! that measures just a hair shy of 3/8 of an inch! in a lot of place along that cripple wall. I noticed that it wasn't caulked from the outside or inside. It's just been left. Not sure if they will caulk it. I think they should have caulked it from the outside all the way around. If it wasn't for the insulation and housewrap that was just installed you'd still be seeing the light shining through. With a gap like that shouldn't shims be installed beneath the cripples????? I am concerned that eventually the unpressure treated wall plate that is in contract with the concrete will soak up moisture.
why is this guy still working on your house?
why were those plates not replaced with pt lumber? they will rot and you will have a problem in the very near future.
they neatly tucked the wrap around the sheathing corner leaving your corner exposed to more issues.
could just be a partial install and they could not be done but it appears as if they only have a few nails in those windows, and they are not wraped with window wrap. now, without removing the window the wrap will not be able to be installed properly.
in these parts (am most others) we use a product that goes by different names but we call it sill seal. Its a foam that gets rolled out and placed between the foundation and the framing...helps seal alot of those gaps your pointing to.
Mark,
See this email and the next for pics of the windwo install .. Pretty sure I haven't posted any pics of the window install here's the view from inside..
what's with the housewrap? My god I have never seen anything quite like that before. Doesn't look like this guy has much experience with spray in foam insulation. There are some areas that have barely any spray in foam
Kind of dark in the basement so the pics aren't the greatest.
Hi,
Not sure if I posted pics of the window install. Interior and ext. views.
2nd set of pics.. Housewrap and insulation installed. Basement windows installed.
When I was down in Mississippi about 8 years back, doing Katrina recovery work, I went to the local HD or whatever it was and asked for sill seal. All I got was dumb looks.
I guess some places they don't use it.
Toolbabe,
There was an offset between the sill and base plate shown in your earlier photos. I don't think the sheathing could be attached to the sill and be flat. Also, if that were done, there would be no light showing between the sill and base plate.
My best advice to you is to stop work, get that guy off the job, and get someone who knows what they are doing in to correct the problems. Most of that work on the cripple wall need redoing, window should be pulled and proper flashing installed, I do not understand what that thin styrofoam is for, but that is not the normal construction material.......
I won't be able to comment for a couple of weeks, will be away. Hope this eventually works out for you.
catmandeau,
What exactly needs to be done to fix the cripple wall? I noticed the other day that the corner of the cripple wall doesn't appear to be square. (it's leaning outwards) Maybe it's an optical illusion.. I don't know till I take a square to it. So I went outside to take a look. Looking from the outside you can see that the sheathing beneath the housewrap is tilted outwards. It's not at a 90 degree angle. I only noticed that last Wed when I went outside to look over the vinyl siding.
window install
Hi Mark,
why is red tuck tape taped over the window flange? . looks like he installed the house wrap over the opening and didn't bother cutting around the window opening before installing the window.. Looks like the window was just shoved in .. how else do you explain that bunched up house wrap inside the basement. what kind of an install is that??????????????
flashing/housewrap
Hi Catmandeaux,
There doesn't appear to be any rubber strips beneath the windows. All I can see is just housewrap. Still waiting for the vinyl to be put up. 2 of the 4 trenches have been backfilled. Not sure how they're going to tie in the old housewrap to the new housewrap. I doubt very much they will use any type of flashing over the wall joint.
The picture of the window was taken from outside. You can clearly see the building wrap partially covering the sill.
The grading isn't finished yet. The carpenter who will be putting up the vinyl said the grade was too high I think.. He hasn't gotten around to cutting off the last 6" or so of the foam. Not sure why he didn't cut the foam to the proper size before installing it. He made a mark just below the bottom roofing nails. That's how much foam he's going to cut off.
The housewarp / flashing around the windows is not installed correctly. Water running down the housewrap has a direct path behind the window tabs into the wood structure. Not sure what the styrofoam is doing, other than acting as a spacer to match the existing siding. Never seen such a thin layer used on a house.
Before the siding goes up, those windows should be pulled and the wrap / flashing corrected. See the Dupont installation guides: http://www.dupont.ca/en/products-and-services/construction-materials/building-envelope-systems/articles/how-to-install.html
or Chapter 15 of the CMHC guide on Wood Frame House Construction. Both have pictures that show how is should be done.
You will not be able to fix the wrap and flashing after the siding is up.
My opinion is the window installation is not acceptable as is.
Grading is supposed ot sloap away from the house. ( maybe just the camera angle?)
Yes, I agree with what you're saying. I was waiting for the weeping tile job to be over with before discussing the "deficiencies" with the window install and housewrap. It's a crap job. What kind of a guy am I dealing with. I'm almost positive that he doesn't know much about vinyl siding. Does he even know why building wrap is installed on houses. It's a real mess. Tuck tape doesn't stick to concrete it even says so on the instructions that come with the tape. You're absolutely right, So many ways for water to infiltrate.. It's a joke. It's amazing that the back door is actually opening and closing. This guy likes to use foam. I noticed a shim positioned vertically on the hinge side of the door. Never seen that before. Usually 2 shims are slipped in from either side until tight. forgot to check if he nailed through the jam and into the trimmer stud. I noticed he sprayed in a few blobs of foam. Is he using that instead of shims? Shouldn't you put a bead of silicone on the bottom door flashing (in this case there is no flashing on the bottom) before installing the door. or is that just optional.
I checked on the nails used to nail the bottom cripple wall plate to the sill plate. I went into 2 different building centers with my nails and asked if they were corrosion resistent. I was told they were not. They will rust just like you said. They used 2 types of nails. They used a nailing gun to nail the top plate in place. What a horrible toe nailing job! Those nails barely penetrated the top plate.
I will go to Kent tomorrow and check with the window people there to see how the manufacturer installs those sliding windows. The manufacturer's instructions trump code. So if that's the case I must find out whether or not you have to use fexible Butyl flashing when installing that particular brand of window. I know all window openings and door openings should be flashed. But sometimes it's just an optinon. Depends on the manufacturer. I also have to check and see if he used the right size 1" crown staples to attach the housewrap to the sheathing. I'll bring in the staples I plucked out of the buidling wrap. They don't look like 1" crown staples to me but I have to make sure.
I want that Housewrap taken down windows pulled and the job done right.
Problem is this contractor is stalling.. no work has been done since last Thursday. 2 trenches were filled. that's all the work that's been done in over 2 wks. Nobody was on site this week.
It's not your imagination. The grading isn't finished. It isn't draining away from the house in fact near the corner of the chimney the water after a rainfall is pooling there in the corner. I've been told they're not finisher. But who knows.
Phoned the contractor on Monday left a message haven't heard back.
what I need is a GC but I have no idea where I can find such a person. I imagine not many tradespeople are going to want to come up and look over someone else's job, are they?
psycho
You went to 2 different building centers to bother people about your nails, yet you can't be bothered to inquire at those same building centers about references for a professional G.C.? Give me a break.
IMO, you're a real piece of work. Seems to me like you're happy to waste someone's time as long as it isn't costing you any money. When you do cough up just enough to hire the incompenent, then you want to complain about it (to anyone who will listen) detailing your raw deal . Yet you nothing with the good advice you receive-- except make excuses for continuing down the same wrong path. "I've been told" this and "I've been told" that. But who knows? Certainly you don't; and apparently never weill. IMO, you don't need a builder, you need a psychiatrist.
BTW, while it is certainly his perojative, I can't imagine why folks like Catmanduex would waste his perfectly good time and advice on someone like you.
vocabulary
BTW, while it is certainly his perojative, I can't imagine why folks like Catmanduex would waste his perfectly good time and advice on someone like you.
deadnuts,
The word is prerogative,NOT, perojative. Maybe you shouldn't be using such big words if you don't know how to spell them.
Geoff
The guy at the building supply store is wrong.
Follow the manufacturers instructions ( links in previous posts)
At least follow the requirements of the building code.
CMCH Canadian Wood Frame House Construction detials how to do it. Even includes pictures that workers can follow even if they can't read.
http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/odpub/pdf/61010.pdf?fr=1414012864483
Fig 130, Page 179
Good afternoon Catmandeux,
I have read the CHMC the link you sent.
The man I talked to at Kent yesterday was the man that sold us the windows.(Atlantic Windows made in NB)
Manufacturer's installation Guide
1.Place shims on the sill of the opening then
using quality caulking, caulk the top and sides of the opening. On the bottom sill it is (*recommended to use formable flashing).
2. PVC window frames have flexibility. Take precautions to ensure they are absolutely straight during installation.
3. Make sure window is plumb and square before fastening to the studs. If using anchor brackets, attach one bracket per side using screws. Then proceed with the shimming process. (if using the nail fin to fasten also use one of the 2 recommended methods.-Anchor brackets or Predrill. Use nail fin temporarily to hold in place.
3. check operation of the window before continuing with the installation of the anchor brackets.
a) Alternative method: Screw directly through the window frame (and shims) into studs using the predril holes provided upon request. Jamb covers or glass stops may need to be removed to gain access to proper predrill locations.
b) Apply fibergalss insulation or low expansion foam between the window and the opening. (do not overfill) Excessive foam type insulation may cause bowing. Secure window using anchor brackets or predrill method.
Installation is now complete.
I can tell the contractor to take it all down and reinstall the windows. How do you think he's going to react! He'll just stand there and insist the job is done right.
Unfortunately, those installation instructions only *recommend you use flashing. It doesn't say it's mandatory. So if they don't have to use it they are not going to.. anything to save time and money..
If you were the homeowner what would you do!!. I can't force them to follow the building code.
I need a list of the deficiencies so I can go over them with the contractor. The man who did the work is obviously incapable to doing it properly or it would have been done right the first time. The carpenter has assured me the work has been done properly. He's very proud of the work he's done. (I've never mentioned anything to him about the deficiencies) The Contractor has already told me to come to him not his carpenter if I have any questions. He's the contractor not the carpenter.. As a contractor what would you say if you were looking over that work. Would you fire your carpenter and replace him with someone else? or would you give him a 2nd chance to get it right?
Unless I can present a good argument I'm not going to make any headway with this contractor. He is very difficult to deal with.
I can ask him to look over the work.. something he should have done already. I'm almost 100% sure the contractor is going to tell me that the housewrap and windows have been installed properly. Contractor says it's ok and the homeowner says otherwise.Remember this is the same man that told me sheathing was only cosmetic and the sheathing was put on incorrectly. He stood there and gave me a lecture on plywood sheathing! What good does it do me knowing what I know. I'm likely to be in for a fight. Fire the contractor and where does that leave you????
backfilling was supposed to go ahead today but has to be postponed due to the weather. He was also going to go ahead with the vinyl installation tomorrow (Saturday). That won't get done because the trenches have to be backfilled first. He is going to be asked to look over that carpenter's work before the Vinyl goes on.
You really need a lawyers help here.
This is where your lawyer should be stepping in to show you how to get out of this mess without costing you more money.
The minimum standard of performance is compliance with the building code. It does not matter if building permits or inspections are required by your local jurisdiction.
NL uses the National Building Code of Canada. What you are showing in the photos does not comply.
Arrange for an independant inspection by a quailified and certified home inspector. Use someone from out of town, so you can be sure of a independant assesment.
Either the contractor fixes any noted difficiencies to full compliance of the building code, or he is off the site and someone else can step in.
The longer you let this guy put up shoddy work, the more it is going to cost to fix it, and it should be at the contractors expense.
( At this stage, you may be a candidate for a Mike Holmes episode)
I really think you need to get your lawyer working on this, or you are going to be paying a lot more in a little while to have all this fixed at your expense.
One problem is that you've waited too long, and much of the evidence has been buried.
It's unclear whether the connection between concrete and sill plate can be inspected.
(And we still have no idea whether he put any steel in the walls.)
There's generally no reason to upload original photo files to a web forum like this. Resize them at home and you'll be doing everyone a favor. If you don't know how, here's a website presenting numerous ways:
http://www.wikihow.com/Resize-Digital-Photos
You will see the anchor bolts if they are there. I did not see any evidence of anchor bolts in any of your pictures. I assume they are missing.
The pictures of the new construction are what your walls should look like. The sill on this house was also wet set in the concrete, but here the crew leveled the top of the foundatioin, the sill is level and flat, there are no gaps in the framing, and the sill gasket will prevent moisture migration to the framing. If you can find the contractor/crew doing this house, they may be able to help in your predicament, or a least know who can be trusted to do good work. Have a talk with them.
Newfoundland is in a low seismic hazard zone. ( maps here : http://www.earthquakescanada.nrcan.gc.ca/hazard-alea/zoning-zonage/NBCC2010maps-eng.php)
No rebar is required for seismic reinforcment in your area according to code.
Rebar is required for ground pressure loads if the grade height above basement floor is above certain values.
For walls without lateral support (cripple walls have no lateral support to the concrete) you can go to 3ft 11in ( 1.2m) for concrete wall 8in thick. For 10in thick concrete wall, the limit is 4ft 7in (1.4m) After that, reinforcement is required. (see the CMHC-CWHC Appendix A, Table 5)
Good evening Catmandeau,
I Have to assume there are no anchor bolts... if that's the case then we've got a major problem. A serious code violation. So earlier today I phoned a concrete company trying to find out alternative methods to anchoring sills to concrete foundations. (supposing there are any) In the capital city he said anchor bolts are used if you want to pass inspection. But as everyone knows there are no mandatory inspections outside of CBS.
Is there such a thing as a nail down method? Is that an exceptable method in CBS????? Can they get away with just nailing down the sill plate using only galvanized nails and no anchor bolts? That's what I need to know. Anyways I should hear back from him tomorrow. They were very busy in the field today and the man wasn't in the office.
The Foundation wall is 5' high and 8" thick.
My thinking is that the anchor bolts come into play four ways:
A seisemic event (probably not a worry for you)
Severe windstorm. This could be hurricane, tornado, or certain cases of "straight-line winds".
Subsidence. Though it won't help much, anchor bolts (and reenforcing iron in the concrete walls) will help hold things together if the foundation subsides unevenly. (Though there are probably cases where one would want to unbolt portions of the sill when the foundation below it is subsiding unevenly.)
"Simple" structural failure. If some other part of the shitty construction comes apart, the bolts might help hold things together.
Anchhor bolts are used to properly attach the sill plates to the foundation. Passing inspection only means that the installation has meet the requiremenst of the building code, which are the mimimum requirements for construction, Anchor bolts should be there inspection or not.
There is no acceptable nail down method.
Somethink like this will work: http://www.strongtie.com/products/anchorsystems/mechanical/strong-bolt/index.html
Thre are other styles of anchors, and other vendors have similar items.
Installation requires a little attendtion to detail. I would not trust your current contractor to put them in.
As far as I know, all the building codes in Canada specify anchor bolts.
Manufacturers of other anchoring systems can have their products appoved as a substitute for anchor bolts. These are done on an indivudual design basis, and the manufacturer will have an approval number and technical data available on their web sites.
All anchor bolts, wedge bolts, adhesive install bolts..... will be visible when installed. A hole is drilled in the wall bottom plate to clear the bolts attaching the sill to the foundation.
If your contractor installed any type of anchor, you will see it. If you can't see it, it is not there.
The vinyl hasn't been delivered because your contractor's credit is no good at the supplier, and he's already spent the cash you gave him paying off other debts.
forgot to post the pics..
If an inspector goes up and looks over the concrete wall foundation he will clearly see that there are no anchor bolts. There might be sheathing up on the outside of the house but not on the inside. So he can go down and inspect the basement. He's not going to find any.
sill plate/ concrete connection
Hi Dan,
Having problems logging on this morning.
You said it might be difficult to see the connection between the sill and the concrete.. The sill is in concrete and the cripple wall is fastened to the PT sill plate using non corrosive resistant 3.25" nails.
Question is.. will the inspector be able to say for sure if there are no anchor bolts connecting the sill to the concrete.
The bottom wall plate doesn't have to be removed for the inspector to do his job does it???? I doubt anchor wedges were used. Anchor bolts are used in other applications. I guess they could be used as a remedy to the problem if it is discovered by the inspector that anchor bolts were not used.
That's for the inspector to judge. From here I can't see any of it.
When you hire a building contractor, there should be a statement in the contract that all work will be to code. If not, there is probably still an enforceable "assumption" that the work will be to code, but you'd have to ask your lawyer to be sure. If you don't have a contract there is probably an "implied" contract, but it's fuzzier still.
(Understand that you're unlikely to be able to get any amount of real money out of this guy -- about the best you can hope for is to get him to not put a lien on your home for "unpaid" amounts in his "contract". He will slither off into the brush, probably leaving several customers in the lurch, and reappear in some other town.)