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Temporary Wall/Partition Ideas?

RickGreg's picture

Here's the situation... Starting June 1, I will need a home office to operate my consulting business. I am planning an addition that will ultimately house a "real" office. In the interim, I am looking at probably 6 months where I'll need to carve out some space.

My plan is to use part of my finished basement (approx 10 x 10 section). The basement is now the kids' playroom. Kids are 5, 4, 2.

We will be able to keep the kids out of the basement during work hours. However, during off hours, when we DO let them down there, I'd like to protect the space where my "office" area will be.

I'm thinking a straight partition wall to limit their access. Wall does not need to provide privacy... just a security perimeter! BuI I will need to pass through. Maybe something 3 ft. high that I can step over and they can't? I can always add concertina wire later if needed.

Any suggestions for design, materials, etc?? Criteria are that it be relatively cheap and easy. THANKS as always!

(post #61226, reply #1 of 12)

collars on kids, underground pet wire under carpet..

they cross over and ZAP..some of the newwer one's have a high pitch frequency..great for dogs, not too effective on high pitched kids..they actually like it. go for the zap.


Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.   

(post #61226, reply #2 of 12)

Tin can framing w/studs 2'OC.

Wall 4' tall so no cutting of skins and each stud makes 2.

The cheapest 4x8 skins you can find.

A diagonal brace to the inside 4'OC.

2 hinges and a little security bolt make a dandy gate.

At a WAG, $120.00


Arguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it. Andy Engel

A Pragmatic Classical Liberal, aka Libertarian.

I'm always right!
Except when I'm not.

(post #61226, reply #3 of 12)

Check at some salvage places and used office furniture places and see if any have used office partions.

. William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

(post #61226, reply #4 of 12)

I wouldn't go with a short partition - I'd go full height with a temporary wall.

With a short wall you have the possibility of incoming kid-launched projectiles of various sorts.

I wonder if you could build some quick walls full height. Maybe put the studs 32" O.C. to save money. Then throw some OBS on with drywall screws. Then you can pull it off and re-use it when you build your permenant office.

Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity. Dr. Rick Rigsby, Professor and assistant football coach, Texas A&M]

(post #61226, reply #5 of 12)

You cant get much cheaper than studs and drywall. Take it apart later and reuse it on your remodel

(post #61226, reply #6 of 12)


Don't get much cheaper than 2X3's and drywall.  Couple of beefy gate hinges and make a door out of same stock.

(post #61226, reply #7 of 12)

How about getting this wall to stand up? The existing walls are finished drywall, the ceiling is suspended... Guess I can nail and patch later....

Thanks again.

(post #61226, reply #10 of 12)

Double top plate. Bolts through the lower plate to press the upper plate against the ceiling. Pad the upper plate with carpet.

(post #61226, reply #11 of 12)

Hang 2 cloths and overlap them for a door... Cheaper still... Movable if you decide you want a bigger office or smaller. Nothing to throw away and you can always use the walls for their intended purpose..

Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....

                                                                   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"

(post #61226, reply #8 of 12)

I'd go with MDF sheets vertical. You can nail a plate to the ceiling and floor to stabilize.





(post #61226, reply #9 of 12)

I had a client once who wanted freestanding and moveable walls in her art gallery. The gallery is in a renovated tobacco warehouse with 15' ceilings and brick walls. No place to even think about attaching.

We made up a bunch of 8' to 12' long 8' high stud walls which butted into various length end walls and formed tees, ells or zees. We plumbed and braced all the long walls with permanent metal strapping, and temporarily braced up any wagging ends. Then we glued and screwed 1/2" sheetrock to both sides. Man, when that glue set up there was no more wagging.

You could easily put in a cheapo hollow core pre-hung door, but I think I would leave the bottom plate uncut there.

Neat thing about that job was the way the walls ended up moving. The floor is carpeted, so we laid heavy poly down under all the walls to protect the carpet from the sheetrock mud. When we went to put up the base, we noticed that those walls and poly were sliding on the carpet slicker than snot. We wrapped the poly up the wall a few inches, cut it, stapled it up, ran the base with a 1/4" reveal, and presto, magically moving walls!

Don't worry, we can fix that later!

The Village Woodworks, Inc

Chapel Hill, NC


We'll have a kid Or maybe we'll rent one He's got to be straight We don't want a bent one He'll drink his baby brew From a big brass cup Someday he may be president If things loosen up

In this situation you can use (post #61226, reply #12 of 12)

In this situation you can use this [url=]removable wall[/url]. Which is made up of a series of individual partition panel with ceiling track which make it be able to slide along the track.