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Tips for Installing/Trimming Crosslegged Double Doors

BobV's picture

Looking for some tips/suggestions on installing/trimming a closet double door that happens to have crosslegged jambs.  Unfortunately the crosslegged situation is one I'm stuck with due to the fact that this is a remodeling project, not new construction, and the slate in the foyer has the sill plates captive, and the wall has an old plaster skim coat that would surely crack if it was moved.  So I can't move the either jamb into position to correct the crosslegged issue.

If I install the assembly so the front edge of the jambs are inline with the plaster, the left door is flush with the right door at the top, but it s almost 1 in behind the right door at the floor.  It makes it look as if the left door is warped. 

However, I presently have the double doors hung in the rough opening with shims and a couple of screws, making the doors hang as intended.  If I ignor the fact that the front edge of the jambs do not line up with the plaster all the way around the door, they look pretty good.  The reveal around/between each doors is fairly uniform.  There is no astregal so either door can be opened first.  The top ball catches keep the doors closed against the stop.

So here's the question.  Is is better to install the door assembly proud of the rough opening, and come up with a creative way hide the gap behind the casing, or install the door assembly recessed in the rough opening and add a jamb extenstion that would be trimmed flush to the wall?  This jamb extensions would end up being wedge shaped. 

Future casing will be 1 x 3's in some type of Craftsmen/Mission design, which does not hide gaps very well.

Any thoughts or comments...

oh man (post #205068, reply #1 of 3)

I had a farely understandable post typed up and just lost it.................



I'll try again and probably will confuse the [JOBSITE WORD] outta you:

I would put the jamb in right and fudge the extension.  No one sees like we do except that anal homowner that would lose sleep and sanity over it.

Did you happen to use a string to line up the top opposing corners with the bottom legs of the jamb?  Running a string from top left to bottom right and another from top right to bottom left ----edge of the jambs.  If the string barely touches in the middle where they cross, you should be lined up and the door edges should align perfectly.  Of course, you should also try from plumb (of course the head's level)


If you need to move things around, you can rock the jamb slightly to bring the edges in alignment.  Also, shimming one edge or the other of the hinges will also turn that door edge.  Do the opposite a little on each door and you halve the amount of movement.

At this time, the faces of your jambs at the bottom may not be parallel, have you tried prying them in/out to help in alignment?

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


bobv (post #205068, reply #2 of 3)

I also mentioned in the previously lost post..............

whatever works is what's right.  Depending on how you can fool the eye and get them to line up will direct your course of action.  That there is more than one way to do it is great, at least you have a choice.

Which one will work and which will you be satisfied with?

Best of luck.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Basically you want to avoid (post #205068, reply #3 of 3)

Basically you want to avoid getting too close to flush, since that will make the error most obvious.  Either proud or recessed should work, depending on the style of trim involved, what's consistent with the rest of the room, and what, given the style of trim, will best conceal the out-of-alignment situation.

Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville