I have been reading this forum for a while now and the one thing that has always impressed me was the depth of knowledge here on just about anything. I’m trying to trouble shoot a cloths dryer that is on the fritz. Maybe someone can help.
We own a Kenmore Elite Gas Dryer. It is one of those front loading models. Model # 110.92822101. It is about 2 years old, so we’re out of luck on the warrantee. About a week ago my wife was doing a load and she got an error message on the display of “E1â€, and the dryer was very hot to the touch. Having no idea what E1 meant I assumed that the dryer was overheating. I checked every part of the exhaust; from the drum to the outside of the house. I took out the blower and duct that is inside the dryer and checked for any blockage or built up lint, nothing. I checked the hose from the dryer to the exhaust wall, no blockage or lint buildup. The exhaust hose (flexible metal vent, not the plastic type wrapped around wire) is not very long and does not have many bends. From the dryer to the outside vent there are 2 bends and the hose is about 10 feet long. I reassembled everything and it will still stop after about 10 minutes of use with the error code “E1†and will be very hot to the touch. I checked the exhaust pressure at the exhaust port on the house (while it is running for the 10 minutes) and it is very strong so I’m confident that there is no exhaust blockage.
I went online and did some searching around and found out that Sears/Kenmore do not make this dryer, it is actually Whirlpool that makes the guts of the thing. I tracked down the E1 error code to mean a failed thermistor. It is my understanding that a thermistor is a device located in the exhaust duct that monitors the dryer’s temperature. When the dryer gets too hot (>250°) the circuit opens. I had a hunch that maybe this thermistor was bad. According to what I found online, the normal thermistor resistance is 11.9 ohms at 70°. I went home last night and checked the thermistor, it measured 11.30 ohms and it was about 68°, seems normal. While there I also checked the fusible link (supposed to prevent dangerous overheating) in the exhaust duct to see if maybe that was blown, it had continuity so no problems there.
Basically, I’m at a point where I’m trying to figure out what can make a dryer overheat, besides any blockage in the exhaust. Something is making this dryer overheat causing the thermistor to open, cutting out the operation. I was reading some trouble shooting guides last night and one mentioned to check the cycling thermostat, which is supposed to control dryer temperature. I checked my schematics for my dryer but I can’t find anything labeled as a cycling thermostat. Could it have an alternate name, like “high limit thermostatâ€. How would you trouble shoot something like that? Are thermostats the same as thermistors with a given ohm levels for a given temperature?
I know what you all are thinking, just call the service guy. I have, and they are coming, but not for two weeks. I’m running out of socks. Also, I’m sure you all can understand the need to see if my own two hands can get the fix done. If I can’t get it done, at least I know that I gave it a shot and maybe I can chat it up with the service guy over a cold drink and a $$$ tip (when he’s done).
Any ideas?
Thanks
Ryan
Replies
Sounds like the "high limit" thermostat is a reasonable place to look. Generally, they will open if the high limit is exceeded. Check it for continuity at room temp and see if it's open. (Although I'm a little confused because the thermistor circuit you're describing sounds like it is functioning as a high limit device). Can you scan and email the schematics?
Thanks Paul,
I hope this comes out...I have the schematic in a Word doc and it is supposed to attach to this message.
Item # 42 is the thermistor, Item # 47 is the high limit thermostat (205° F)
Ahhh... I was thinking elec schematic ;)
Well, I'd still check the high limit thermostat for continuity, I'd imagine it should be closed at lower temps and open at higher. Might want to check if there's a vane switch that senses whether there is airflow, would be a switch mounted on a paddle of some sort. I've seen a dryer with one that went bad and shut it down, but if your problem seems to be only temp related then it sure sounds like one of those sensors, or maybe a bad controller board... if you have any other elec diagrams or specs feel free to send them to me via PM and I'll be happy to try to help.
P.S... double check all the connections to those sensors as well we the controller board.
Paul
Edited 10/27/2004 12:34 pm ET by PaulB
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the suggestions. I’ll see if I can get a hold of an electrical schematic. I’ll check the high limit thermostat tonight. I’ll see if there is a paddle switch. .
Ryan
When I have trouble shooting a cloths dryer I wait for it to stop running.
C'mon Jim... you know better. Just have to lead em enough...
He's a bad shot...
Needs a scatter gun...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Modified choke...
Send that heat over here. My gas dryer quit heating up. Got to be something back there that ignites gas. Tyr
Clothes lines are easier to troubleshoot.
Solar powered dryers are great...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Yeah, but then why are so few sold?
You know how lazy some can be...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
full open... 4" barrel....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
"Just have to lead em enough..."
Yeah, but my eyesight isn't what it was. If I lead them too much I hit the washer. And that springs a few leaks. And I have to spend the rest of the day duct taping it back together.
Better to wait 'em out. They gotta stop sometime. There's even a little buzzer to let me know they've stopped that wakes me up if I doze off while I'm waitin'.
Market gun....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Thanks all for the suggestions.
I have been using http://www.repairclinic.com so far and it’s been great. That was my first resource because I have fixed repaired a few bum appliances with the information off of that site. I haven’t heard of Samurai Appliance Repair but as soon as I finish this post I’ll check it out.
Ryan
Try to find something called the appliance samarai, can't think of the website addy tho.....Sonny Lykos knows.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&safe=off&q=%22appliance+samurai%22
Try http://www.repairclinic.com/
The key to correcting your trouble shooting the dryer is good
sight picture and trigger control. Smooth squeeze and a little breath control will bag you more driers. And possibly a few washers.
Good chance yur operating stat quit and the high limit thermsistor is doing the shutting off...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
overheating gas dryer
Hey Ryan, ever figure out what was causing your dryer to overheat? we have (had) a new gas Whirlpool Duet dryer which got so hot that the smoke akarm in our house went off on two sepaate occasions.Tthe boys from Whirlpool authorized service came twice and other than replacing the high limit "fuse" the first time declared it "good to go" - nothing wrong with this dryer because See- there are no error codes displayed. Homeowner, you must be stupid if you think there is anything wrong with this dryer because there are no error codes on the panel. I will show you again if you don't believe me. Then why did the fireman who came here the first time say Damn, that baby is hot. I have to put on my insulated gloves before I touch that dryer again. i think I burned my hands!! To make a long story short, I made a stink and contacted Whirlpool's CEO in Benton Harbor and the next thing I know, they are offering to buy the dryer back, no questions asked , full price plus tax and pick up. So that is what I did. Now unfortunately, I have a hole in the floor and a space where the dryer used to be and no explanation about why my dryer worked perfectly for one year and then started to overheat. But I do like hanging the clothes on the line outside - in the summer that is. It is cold here in Yonkers in the wintertime. We had to bottom vent this dryer because it was not near an outside wall. it was a short run, between two joists in the basement, one bend and there was never any lint in the smooth metal exhaust pipe. The bottom vent system is clearly shown in the installation instructions. The service men told me that since they had never seen it done that way, that must be why it was overheating. So I am stumped. We may have to buy the same dryer since that is the only one that fits under the counter. We have always had gas dryers and never had a problem like this before. Any ideas??
I think the dryer was unable to properly measure or control the temperature. Probably a sensor or circuit board malfunction. They will probably destroy it and hide the evidence to avoid a recall, untill a house fire is blamed on one. Sort of like GM and their bad ignition switches.
We had a new washing machine that was malfunctioning -- the water level was totally unpredictable, and the water was always cold (even though the unit is 3 feet from the water heater). No trouble codes.
Called the local repair guy and he checked it out. Said he couldn't find anything, but he'd seen problems before where the water valves were failing. Replaced the valve assembly and it's worked like a champ ever since. Before that we were ready to send it back. (I think what would happen is that the cold water valve would stick open.)
I recall two cases of overheating furnaces where the gas valve had failed open.
I would kinda suspect the valve here.