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Useing original KILZ in a HVLP gun.

Pd5190's picture

I much should I thin the Kilz in order to spray with a spray gun. The gun has a 1 qt siphon can.

(post #65318, reply #1 of 14)

depends...what size nozzle and air cap ya got?



Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi  

(post #65318, reply #2 of 14)

1.7mm nozzle. The compressor is a 20 gallon tank that I believe easily produces 4 CFM at 40 lbs of pressure.

(post #65318, reply #3 of 14)

3oz. of naptha per qt. ouggta do ya.


Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi  

(post #65318, reply #4 of 14)

Thanks, one question.
Why naptha and not paint thinner?

(post #65318, reply #5 of 14)

I like naptha because it evaps a bit faster. Ms and Pt can vary a lot in quality, Vanrnish and paint makers Naptha is more consistant. And being as I use varnish frequently, I always have it handy.


Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi  

(post #65318, reply #6 of 14)

in a 1 qt cup... why would you want to spray setting it up stinning ect it would be easier to brush or roll......



Buck Construction 

   Artistry in Carpentry

        Pgh, PA








(post #65318, reply #7 of 14)

I'll bet he's inside a little nook-n-cranny deal with all sorts of little stuff going on it there.



(post #65318, reply #8 of 14)

Exactly, small closets, cabinets and I am a big guy. The house is vacant and under going renovation. So the over spray and smell is not a problem. I will protect the hardwood floors and myself. I tried to roll one closet that experience was not a great one. The house had been heavily smoked in and the water based Kilz just did not stop the bleed through. The walls had been washed with TSP and rinsed well. It is absolutely amazing how tobacco smoke gets into everything and every place.

(post #65318, reply #9 of 14)

Has anyone had success with the water based Kilz or Bins?  I sure haven't.  We gave up after trying it in a couple of situations and now just use original no matter what the purpose.  DanT

(post #65318, reply #10 of 14)

I have. 

It was the only thing that worked in covering over the asphalt coated foundation coating...


(post #65318, reply #11 of 14)

Sorry, Dan. I misposted to you instead of PD.

And.........I see now that I also didn't pay good attention at all either. PD already washed down with TSP. But I'll leave this set as is in case it should benefit someone else.


Did you try washing down everything with TSP first?

Gonna take some elbow grease, probably take twice (maybe three times) and then a good rinse job, but that should remove the vast majority of the residues that are bleeding thru your primer.

Fact is, and despite what the hype on the can may have to choose a stain-killing primer based upon what it is you're trying to isolate/trap. You'll have the best odds of success if you select one that won't dissolve the underlying stuff. Any primer or paint that contains a solvent or ingredients that dissolve the underlying stuff and put it back into suspension will ultimately fail to some degree, because the "offenders" then migrate right up into that primer.

This migration problem is exacerbated if you're rolling or brushing on the primer. The more you work it and make physical contact, the more you free the stuff and work it right up into the primer or paint.

I think these smoke residues are particularly problematic because it contains various substances that are either dissolvable in water, alcohol and/or mineral spirits. Can't win for losin' kinda, but........using the primer that has the fastest evaporating solvent will likely prove the most successful if residues remain on the surface. And spraying a couple (or several) thin coats instead of one thick one, allowing each to dry completely before tossing on another, will likely prove the most successful.

Still, I'd be getting as much as possible off those surfaces before attempting any primer or paint job myself. The fact that you had stains coming thru that water-base primer leads me to believe (from here anyway) that there is still "free material" on the surface and that was taken up into your primer.

The way I come to that conslusion is because you washed down with water and TSP. If all the offending substance was actually removed, there shouldn't have been any of that left to bleed up thru the WB primer. Stuff that's still there, but somewhat bound up IN the surface shouldn't come thru immediately, but could come up thru later down the road.

FWIW, I too think that the original Kilz and/or Bin are superior stain killers to the WBs in most common instances. Stink more, but work better. They won't however work well for stain substances that are soluable in their respective solvents. Like asphalt sealer. WB there is more likely to do the deed.

Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

Edited 3/23/2005 9:34 am ET by GOLDHILLER

Edited 3/23/2005 9:44 am ET by GOLDHILLER

Edited 3/23/2005 12:25 pm ET by GOLDHILLER

Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

(post #65318, reply #13 of 14)

All good points.  We do wash down with TSP first.  I tried it on a couple of simple water stains and got bleed through, also pen ink on a wall.  That was it, didn't work on them no need to buy lol.  We do primarily remodel and handyman work so we usually roll or brush.  For smoke I only use the original as I know it works for that item.  Thanks again.  DanT

(post #65318, reply #14 of 14)

for a room that has been smoked in I would wash it with TSP and use the bins with the shellac to stop te stains and seal it



Buck Construction 

   Artistry in Carpentry

        Pgh, PA








(post #65318, reply #12 of 14)

You will get your best results by using a viscosity cup to measure the flow rate. Your owners manual will have the information. I use a Devilbis conversion siphon gun with #3 HVLP air cap. I sprayed some Ben Moore's satin Impervo oil base this past weekend. I thinned with mineral spirits which is also the base for Kilz. I just eye balled my mix, probably a 1/4 cup of MS to the quart. I had to open my fluid control fully and ran about 35PSI to the gun, also with the air control wide open. This seems to be typical with all types of paint with my gun. If you're not pulling any paint, it's too thick. Not that MS is healthy but I wouldn't use naphtha, too volatile for me.

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match