Does anyone know the volume to expect from a can of expanding foam insulation? I have looked at several cans at lumber yards, and none of them give a clue.
Depends on the foam type, and the conditions.
Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed. --Herman Melville
The big box stores often have displays. The great stuff display showed the can produced about 1 cubic foot.
I don't have a can in front of me, but have used enough of it to know that the conditions of use will have a big effect on the usable quantity of foam.
You do need to shake the can well. If you use it over a prolonged time, you need to shake periodically. You need to make sure the nozzle stays screwed tight to the can, and that you are not spraying at an angle that allows air to escape without any foam.
As I recall, somewhere on the can there's an estimate of how many doors/windows you can expect to be able to seal.
Spray foam is polyurethane ( read moisture cure ),
Very similar to gorilla glue.
If working conditions allow,a little spritz of water from a spray bottle on the area to be foamed will work wonders!
The moisture makes the foam expand more than on a dry surface.
And don't worry, it still sticks to everything!
Generally either not quite enough to finish the job or way more then you need.
And unfortunately more comes out of the nozzle after you release the button than while you're pressing it.
I picked up a foam gun a year or two back and don't have that problem anymore. I can leave a can screwed on to the gun for months. Ready to go whenever I need it.
"I was gratified to be able to answer promptly.
I said 'I don't know.'"
Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you. -- Carl Sandburg
I like a nice simple answer, man
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We did the best we could...
about 5 gallons...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
It varies with the brand, the type of foam, the temperature when it is applied, the size of the can...
I know ! I have an expert level of experience in this. Its 4 cu.ft
The first cu.ft. works great, you will get about 1/3 of your doors and windows done,and its actually kinda fun.
The 2nd cu.ft. gets on your hands and pants and shirt. Its a good thing its as easy to get off as super glue.
After lunch the 3rd & 4th cu.ft. remain in the can as the nozzle is clogged and no amount of exorcism will unjam it. The can sails into the trash.
The exact volume might be found on the can,but this is as ambiguous as a politician telling you they have the solution to healthcare.
Wear gloves,use whole can then toss.I'm told the minimally expanding foam is recommended around vinyl windows .
Thanks all for responding. We recently replaced windows in a bay wall, 12' long x 9' tall. The stud spaces above and below the windows are uninsulated. The HO wanted to have the wall insulated with blown in cellulose,as we had other rooms in the past. I am not sure that the bother of renting a blower, and the labor for such a small area is worth the benefit. Therefor my consideration of expanding foam. The walls are plaster and lath, and I am some what conserned that the maximun expanding foam might blow the lath right off of the studs, and the minimum expanding product might take more cans than is practicle. Another thought is how does one know when enough product has been sprayed into the cavity, since you can't see what is happening? I suggested to the HO that the act of replacing the old double hung windows, and getting rid of the weight pockets, would already make a big difference in the infiltration into the room.
For something like that you need to look at Tigger Foam or Fomoco (sp?).
They have both one and 2 part foams and come in all sizes of kits.
IIRC they do have foams for use closed areas.
No matter how much you get out of a can, just be very careful using it. Use those plastic or rubber gloves and eye protection~!
I was talking to a lady who has a son that does product testing. He told her to be very, very careful due to the chemicals in that yellow and red can of foam. Just getting it on your skin produces a toxic load on your liver in proportion to the amount contacting the skin. AND you know, nothing but the compainies special toweletts will remove the stuff from your hide......
As I was insulating my workshop with full size sheets of foam and wearing old clothes, a dust mask and safety glasses, I used this canned foam to fill any gaps between the sheets' rough edges and the walls. I had an unopened can of this foam, but it had set on the shelf for over 6 months. When I tried to use it, it appeared to be still liquid, but the valve would not allow the foam to come out. I banged the plastic spout and straw on the inside wall only to snap off the short spout and have the foam squirt out sideways, covering one side of the dusk mask and one lens of my safety glasses. I SHUTTER to think what my face and right eye would have had to go through when covered with that "STUFF"....
Toss the cans if they don't work!!!
How do you get the gloves on your beard?
use grease instead...
How do you get gloves on grease?
slide right on...
All right, you got me curious enough to look it up. From the Great Stuff web site, http://greatstuff.dow.com/greatstuff/cons/faq.htm the official answer from Dow is
The theoretical yield of a can of GREAT STUFF is measured in lineal feet of a 3/8”– 1/2” diameter bead. One 12 oz. can of GREAT STUFF has about 250 lineal feet. One 16 oz. can has about 335 feet. One 20 oz. can has about 420 feet. One 6 oz. can yields approximately 120 feet.
BTW, since the foams use moisture in the air to cure, they wont' work well if you try to fill a large enclosed cavity. Buy a box of 2 part for that.
Hope this helps. Rich
Thanks for the link. I should have thought to look up a manufacturers web sight. It does not look like tyhis is the right approach to take for our situation.
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