Subscribe or Renew Membership Subscribe Renew

Wood preserve sealer before prime/paint

dockelly's picture

Almost ready for the paint. Most old paint gone, down to bare wood. I've read wood preservative sealer , a paintable variety, is a good first step. One block to ocean, really want to make this paint job last as long as possible. Any one else do it this way and recommend it?

Thanks

Kevin

(post #88185, reply #1 of 15)

I used some DAP woodlife wood preserver under white paint once. I thought it was paintable, but my brite white paint turned canary yellow after a few minutes.

It's supposed to make paint last longer.

Try a spot first.

(post #88185, reply #2 of 15)

The online reading said make sure it says it's paintable, probably the Sherwin Williams guy could recommend something.

(post #88185, reply #3 of 15)

If you really want to make it last then you should back prime all that exterior trim. But that would involve tearing it off.

If you have money to burn there is always this stuff.
http://www.finepaintsofeurope.com/
Some of the best paint out there.

(post #88185, reply #4 of 15)

It's lasted 120 years without back priming. Better wood years ago:). Already bought SW oil primer and latex paint, 2 coats worth.

(post #88185, reply #5 of 15)

That's like 155 bucks a gallon for Eurolux housepaint!

I have thought about buying some of the oil paint for my front door. I don't think there are many painted houses in Holland, but Europeans have those nice looking doors.

(post #88185, reply #6 of 15)

Yes.  Use a product called "Woodlife" on raw, bright wood.  I spray it on with a garden sprayer, then brush out the few drips.


It's good stuff.


 


Forrest - doin' that on my house after research

(post #88185, reply #7 of 15)

Hey,

How are you and your wife? Think of you guys often, with the barn board table and the tiles she makes.

I'll look for the woodlife stuff.

Be well.

Kevin

(post #88185, reply #10 of 15)

Hey doc, I've used Woodlife as well and it's a good product. The oil primer is also a good move. The biggest deterrent is going to be keeping up on the maintenance and making sure water is directed away and kept from collecting in areas.

(post #88185, reply #8 of 15)

Found 3 Woodlife products,

Woodlife classic
Woodlife Coppercoat
Woodlife Creocoat

I assume you are using Classic, correct?

(post #88185, reply #9 of 15)

Yes - I can order Classic in the 5-gal pail at my local Ace hardware.


DW's tile is going well - she's about to start back in, as the kids are back in school for the year.


Forrest

(post #88185, reply #14 of 15)

http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=125901.13

If you get the time, this is a good read. Says you have to spray on bare wood only. I have some paint, here and there. Probably could avoid it easily since mostly it's bare. Just thought you'd like to know as well, garden sprayer would have to be careful in those areas with paint remaining.

Kevin

(post #88185, reply #11 of 15)

Doc, I have gotten good results with a 50/50 solution of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner used on old, dry stripped bare wood. It soaks in like crazy and stiffens the wood fibers. Sand lightly and apply oil primer.

(post #88185, reply #12 of 15)

Here is a reference to an article that suggests using water repellant preservatives, and these are the products referenced in the article;

http://www.rd.com/content/printContent.do?contentId=17527

Behr No. 2-85 Waterproofing Sealer: (800) 854-0133. www.behr.com

Cuprinol Clear Deck Wood Seal: (800) 424-5837. www.cuprinol.com

Penofin Blue Label: (800) 736-6346. www.penofin.com

Woodlife Classic Clear Wood Preservative: (800) 556-7737. www.wolman.com

I have used a Cabots Clear Solution for this purpose.

Al Smith

(post #88185, reply #13 of 15)

Thanks Al,

Think I'll go with the woodlife, readily available here. There was a good point in the article about the wood having to be completely stripped of paint. Most of my house is, but not all. I'll have to be careful in those areas.

Hey can anyone tell me what (post #88185, reply #15 of 15)

Hey can anyone tell me what would happen if i applied this to a mostly stripped/sanded cedar surface if there are random small gouges with residual adhered paint and also a few areas with abatron liquid wood applied? i know woodlife claims all paint should be removed but since i can't would there be actuall adhesion issues? thanks!