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First stair build

aaron_agosto's picture

First stair build (post #207342)

So far just framed with temp treads. Finish will come later. This was an intense one to figure out for a first timer. there was a lot of stuff to work around. If i remember right, the floor opening for the second floor was about 79 inches. it couldnt be moved forwards or back becuase of the stairs above it. The landing had to be in that spot because of the door below it, and stairs below it as well. we ended up having to couple winders with shorter than code run lengths. We called in the inspector before we cut the shorter treads of course. Pitch ended up at 7 3/16 rise over 8 run. The finshed treads will have an 1 1/4 overhang, so hopefully it will feel a little nicer when going up or down.

hmm doesnt look as good (post #207342, reply #1 of 9)

hmm doesnt look as good upside down...

aaron (post #207342, reply #2 of 9)

The finish tread overhang will make no difference to the comfort of the stair-with all the o-hangs the same, the clear distance from edge of nose of one to edge of nose of the other below or above, will still be 8.  If that's ok with the inspector, then all is well.

Because the run is so shallow, I think it will be a steep stair.  Not as steep as the one we lived in out in Scotch Ridge-you could walk up just fine, coming down was a different story-you had to do that sideways.

This is a different job than the commercial one you posted about?

 

I pulled this off the web, but not from the code book. 

 

The International Residential Code (2006 IRC) states the following:

R311.5.3 Stair treads and risers.

R311.5.3.1 Riser height.
The maximum riser height shall be 7¾ inches (196 mm). The riser shall be measured vertically between leading edges of the adjacent treads. The greatest riser height within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch (9.5 mm).

R311.5.3.2 Tread depth.
The minimum tread depth shall be 10 inches (254 mm). The tread depth shall be measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads and at a right angle to the tread's leading edge. The greatest tread depth within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch (9.5 mm). Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 10 inches (254 mm) measured as above at a point 12 inches (305 mm) from the side where the treads are narrower. Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 6 inches (152 mm) at any point. Within any flight of stairs, the largest winder tread depth at the 12 inch (305 mm) walk line shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch (9.5 mm).

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 


This is in a residential (post #207342, reply #3 of 9)

This is in a residential remodel. the original stairs were falling apart, so we tore them out. i drew up some plans with a 10 inch run, and it seemed to have just enough head room, but when I mocked up a stringer, I was off a bit. I thought about modifying the floor framing, but the next stair case lands directly on the header, and its canilevered in a weird way because of that radiused landing. We ended up calling in the inspector, i had a mock up of the 8 in run, and he was ok with it. he was fine with the taper of the winders as well, if i made them to the 6 in code, we wouldnt have head room for the door underneath. they do have the 10 in at the walk line though. I think the original stairs had something like a 9 1/4 over 9 pitch.

Remodeling (post #207342, reply #4 of 9)

A treat, not for the faint of heart.

 

 

and dirty.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 


It is What it is (post #207342, reply #5 of 9)

Not bad for a first run at stairs. You have learned the first lesson, all stairs are custom and you must adapt to the space allowed. For remods, inspectors are a little easy because they know the limitations of the existing space. That being said, 8in runs are way to narrow, but if the inspector looks away...who's to argue. Looking at the pics, I can see that you could have stretched the runs a bit more than you think, but whats done is done. The nextime, try to get the sum of the rise and run to fit between 17 and 18, it's a standardized benchmark for proportions.

I probable could have gotten (post #207342, reply #8 of 9)

I probable could have gotten away with a bit close to 9 in hindsight, but its done with now. I actually measured against the stairs in my own house for comparison, and the run going up to the third floor has the same pitch, and with the 1 1/4 nosing over hang, its not a terribly uncomfortable stair.

A lot of veteran carpenters (post #207342, reply #6 of 9)

A lot of veteran carpenters would have had trouble with this build. Nice work!

Andy

Senior Editor, Fine Homebuilding

Thanks man! I appreciate (post #207342, reply #7 of 9)

Thanks man! I appreciate that.


I'm starting the finish work next week. It's going to be pretty involved from what my homework tells me. He wants the balusters to run into a knee wall, with recessed panel wainscotting. And he wants to preserve the radiused landing at the second floor. So I'm going to have to get into bending rail, and kerf bending the wainscotting for that portion. The newel posts he picked out are also going to require me to use goose neck fittings at the intermediate and second floor landing. I'm pretty excited to get into it, but also a bit apprehensive. Luckily the customer is pretty easy to work with. My guy at the lumber yard also offered to get the rep from lj smith over to the job site to give me some pointers.


I'll post some mmore photos as I get into it.

are you done (post #207342, reply #9 of 9)

just wondering how it went , i have always did built stairs with finish materials ,wonering how it works with rough framing for finish stairs , i would love to try it