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Small Addition

stevent1's picture

Small Addition (post #129215)

Finaly started framing a 13'8" x 24' on the back of my house. master bath/closet addition on Thursday. It is over a crawl space, about 30" clear. Friday another carpenter and I framed the joists. Yesterday we put six mill plastic on the compacted sand and ran the decking. 3/4" Advantec


Crawl space. Two coats of Dry-Lok. 4 yards of compacted 'Brown # 1"


 




6 mill on the crawl after framing joists


 


 



The top left area is the curbless walk-in shower


 



We used polyeuratane adhesive on the 3/4" Advantech.



 


live, work, build, ...better with wood


 


Edited 10/8/2006 3:18 pm ET by stevent1

Edited 11/3/2006 9:55 pm ET by stevent1

Edited 11/3/2006 9:59 pm ET by stevent1


Edited 2/3/2007 7:27 pm ET by stevent1

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #1 of 636)

Looks good.

One question. Why are the perimeters doubled?

Joe Carola
Joe Carola

(post #129215, reply #3 of 636)

Is it me or is that a large setback for the rim on the sill plates? Maybe it's for a certain siding?


 


 


 


Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!

 

 

 

Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!

(post #129215, reply #6 of 636)

>>Is it me or is that a large setback for the rim on the sill plates? Maybe it's for a certain siding?<<

No it's not a setback. He used a double rim joist all the way around.

Look at the FRAMINMG picture he has and you'll see the double rims.

I asked him why he did that. I'm just curious. I use double rim joists over all window openings but that it.

Joe Carola
Joe Carola

(post #129215, reply #25 of 636)

>> I use double rim joists over all window openings but that it. <<


Does that mean you don't put headers over first floor windows?  It would be redundant wouldn't it?


Re the joist hanger thing, I guess he is using ledger strips.  They are still allowed here, but not as much as they used to be.  Personally, I don't see ledger strips as inferior construction just so it is done properly. 


Any of the remodelers around here seen floor system failures due to ledger strips?


Regarding the double rim joist, I see it every once in a while around here.  On the end parallel to the regular joists it gives you something more to nail your walls down to.  Causes little problems for trades if they want to run a wire or pipe down through the sole plate into the crawl though.

Matt

(post #129215, reply #26 of 636)

>> Does that mean you don't put headers over first floor windows? It would be redundant wouldn't it? <<

Matt,

I'm talking about doubling up the rim just over window openings in the foundation.

What are you talking about? Did you think that I meant I install double rim joist for headers on the first floor instead of putting headers over the openings?

Why would I do something like that unless I had to because of a tall window with a circle top or transom and a header wouldn't fit under the plates?

>> Any of the remodelers around here seen floor system failures due to ledger strips? <<

I've installed 2x4 ledgers many times on houses and never seen a problem but never a 1-1/2"x2" before like he did.

>> Regarding the double rim joist, I see it every once in a while around here. On the end parallel to the regular joists it gives you something more to nail your walls down to. <<

I never see it even if you use 2x6 walls. You just don't need it. There's no need for doubling up rim joist unless there's a reason. Just for extra nailing or over building is no reason.

Joe Carola
Joe Carola

(post #129215, reply #27 of 636)

I thought you ment doubling the rim on a second floor floor system above the first floor windows...


I have used that technique if the HO said they might want to add a window later.


Anyway, we too have to double the 1st flr rim above the vents and CS door unless these have steel lintles and a row of masonry above them. 


The way he lets the mudsills protrude so that they are flush with the masonry is different too.  We always let the sheathing come down over the mudsill. 

Matt

(post #129215, reply #30 of 636)

Matt,

The mudsill to the masonry edge is so the OSB has no contact with the masonry. The sheathing sits on top of the mud sill and is easier for me.The addition will be hardie smooth plank, we will start with 1 X 12 hardies that will extend below the mudsill 1/2".

When run the sheathing on a slab we hold it up 1/2" and use a sealant to prevent wicking.

Chuck S

live, work, build, ...better with wood

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #31 of 636)

Joe,

The best scenario would have been the joists resting on a girder. That would have coverd the access for the ductwork, gas line and water lines.

Chuck S

live, work, build, ...better with wood
live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #29 of 636)

Matt,

"Regarding the double rim joist, I see it every once in a while around here.  On the end parallel to the regular joists it gives you something more to nail your walls down to.  Causes little problems for trades if they want to run a wire or pipe down through the sole plate into the crawl though."

You are right about the double rim causing difficulty for the mechanical trades. These are 2 X 6 walls so that will leave
2 1/2" inches to drill.

If it was 2 X 4 walls a single rim would be used.

Chuck S

live, work, build, ...better with wood

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #36 of 636)

>>If it was 2 X 4 walls a single rim would be used.


2x4, 2x6 or 2x8 for that matter makes no difference. the same amount of weight is carried thru the stud and bearing on the rim joist. not that I want to nit-pic, better to over build than under build

(post #129215, reply #38 of 636)

I have been a millwork contracor for 30 years. Got my start in residential framing. Mostly inststutional and commercial millwork. Had a stretch of 8 years with one hospital with no punch list.

Matt and Framer have valid points about mechanical contractor needing to drill throgh rim plates. I would never put water lines in an exterior wall but some times it happens. Building over a crawl space good subs drop every thing from the ceiling in most cases.

Chuck S

live, work, build, ...better with wood


Edited 10/23/2006 9:55 pm ET by stevent1

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #9 of 636)

Jemcon


Small world.My Dad's family is from Beverly.


The Set back is 7/16" for the continuous OSB sheathing. We live in termite country An Historic district in Columbus GA and had to go through a BHAR to get our building permit. BHAR initially wanted us to use diagonal 1 X 6 sheathing, to match original construction. Had to convince the Blue hairs. Our plans prevailed.


The setback on the mudsill is for the OSB ( continuous sheathing) to have no contact with masonry.



Chuck S



Live, work, build,...Better with wood



Edited 11/3/2006 10:02 pm ET by stevent1

live, work, build, ...better with wood
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(post #129215, reply #7 of 636)

Framer,

Going with 2 x 6 exterior walls. Being in West Central GA we have AC issues. If i was doing this from VA North I would do a 'Moony Wall' like Mike Smith did in "Adverse Conditions"

The double rim joist is the way I learned 30 years ago.Heck, I still use a Lufkin X46 F

live, work, build, ...better with wood


Edited 10/9/2006 7:25 am ET by stevent1

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #8 of 636)

>>Going with 2 x 6 exterior walls. The double rim joist is the way I learned 30 years ago.<<

Never seen that before. I thought you were doing it for some structural reasons. You can do it with single rim joist. What is the reason for double?

What if you had a second story addition and used 2x4 walls, what would you do for rim joists? What did you do when you framed on top of 2x4 30 years ago?

I'm just curious and don't want to take away from your thread, it's just that I've never seen double rim joists before and wonder what the reason for it is.

Joe Carola
Joe Carola

(post #129215, reply #11 of 636)

Joe,

You are correct. CABO 1 & 2 sez a single is OK.
I'm kinda' into over build. Especially for my owm houise. Extra 40 bucks.

Chuck S

live, work, build, ...better with wood

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #2 of 636)

Hooray for realtime / story posts!


Keep 'em coming.


Forrest

(post #129215, reply #5 of 636)

Forrest,


My DW finally acquiesced to let me download 'Infranview'on her laptop. I have a G4 Mac OS X. and I can not submit resized pics. (Its a Gates / Jobs thing) I would like to post pics like you and Mike Smith dioin the body of the text. I go to preview. Open jbegs, Copy, try to paste. I must have missed something from a previous link that I can not find


How 'bout that clear SYP. Ordered 2 & better. Must be a Georgia thing.



Shower


 



Sorry for the double pics.


live, work, build, ...better with wood


Edited 10/8/2006 10:08 pm ET by stevent1


Edited 10/8/2006 11:54 pm ET by stevent1


Edited 11/3/2006 9:35 pm ET by stevent1

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #13 of 636)

Ah.  after you hit "copy", hit "back", then scroll to the bottom and hit "revise" - THEN paste the pic wherever you want it.  then go to "preview" again, open and copy the next pic, and so on.


I think you're misssing the "revise" step.


Forrest

(post #129215, reply #14 of 636)

Thanx Forrest.

I'm still not doing something right.

live, work, build, ...better with wood
live, work, build, ...better with wood
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(post #129215, reply #15 of 636)

Steven,

I noticed that you don't have hangers on your joists that are nailed into the ledger and they're just sitting on a plate. What kind of hanger will you use? Will you cut the plate out and use regular hangers or will you use inside corner hangers?

Joe Carola


Edited 10/9/2006 8:16 am ET by Framer

Joe Carola

(post #129215, reply #16 of 636)

Joe,

No hangers. The bond timber, 1 1/2" x 2", is nailed into the double 2 x 12 treated with 20D hot dipped galvanized nails. These were predrilled. i nail blow the joist.1 on either side about 3" or so and staggered to not split the wood.

Chuck S

live, work, build, ...better with wood

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #18 of 636)

>>No hangers. The bond timber, 1 1/2" x 2", is nailed into the double 2 x 12 treated with 20D hot dipped galvanized nails. These were predrilled. i nail blow the joist.1 on either side about 3" or so and staggered to not split the wood.<<

Chuck,

What's a "Bond Timber" 1-1/2" x 2"?

Is it the single plate I was talking about nailed to the bottom of the double treated 2x12 ledger?

If so, you can pass inspection with just the joists nailed into the ledger and sitting a that single plate without hangers?

That would never pass inspection here without hangers.

Years ago we were able to nail a 2x4 flat on a girder for a sunk in room and then sit the joists on top of the without hangers, but they stopped that.

Joe Carola


Edited 10/9/2006 1:03 pm ET by Framer

Joe Carola

(post #129215, reply #19 of 636)

Framed about 40 LF of 2 X 6 10' Walls today. Built the 24' wall on the deck and raised it in 2 sections, no headers, jacks or crips.



Double Top plate



Had to stick build a side wall that conects to the original structure because it goes in a 'pocket' that was cut into the original roof system.



Roof pocket



 Existing roof should still be water tight. Got rid of a bunch of used jab saw blades.


 


Used 'Red Head' STD anchors for attaching PT deadwood studs to the masonry.


 



Additions to an existing homes or structures are additionally challenging because you don't know what you've got till you open it up. Ed, my bud the carpenter, and I would rather be doing new work, Ed frames, I do cabinets and millwork, but tearing into an old structure lets us know how craftsmen built things without all of the specialized tools we have today. Can't you just picture the days of saw pits? How 'bout cutting cripple jack rafters with a 8 pt hand saw?


Chuck S





live, work, build, ...better with wood


Edited 11/25/2006 12:54 pm ET by stevent1

live, work, build, ...better with wood
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(post #129215, reply #20 of 636)

Coming along.



_______________________________________________________________


tagline free since 2006

  

when you are up to yur knees in gators, make gatorade     

(post #129215, reply #23 of 636)

Thanx Heck

I make my pics as small as possible, But cannot imbed them.

live, work, build, ...better with wood

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #24 of 636)

Your welcome. Must be the mac? Keep the photos coming.

_______________________________________________________________


tagline free since 2006

  

when you are up to yur knees in gators, make gatorade     

(post #129215, reply #32 of 636)

OK, you've had 12 hours, where's our next batch of pics?


 


jt8


"Most of the shadows of this life are caused by our standing in our own sunshine." -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

jt8

Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you.
-- Carl Sandburg

(post #129215, reply #33 of 636)

John

Waiting on Harvey Lumber to replace 24 2X6 10' SPF. They promised AM delivery so who knows.

Did you end up using the LVL's?

Chuck S

live, work, build, ...better with wood

live, work, build, ...better with wood

(post #129215, reply #34 of 636)

John,


Lumber redilevery did not get here until noon.
Finished the exterior wall and openings.


 


Did you get my email?


Chuck S


live, work, build, ...better with wood


Edited 11/25/2006 12:56 pm ET by stevent1

live, work, build, ...better with wood
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(post #129215, reply #37 of 636)

Yup, I got it.   How'd those ramsets do with the block?  Were your blocks filled or empty? 


Framing looks good.  What are you going to do with the roof?


jt8


"All the knowledge I possess everyone else can acquire, but my heart is all my own." -- Goethe

jt8

Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you.
-- Carl Sandburg