Subscribe or Renew Membership Subscribe Renew

Hardibacker Drywall Adhesive

Thief's picture

I used screws to install the hardbacker into almost all of my bathroom. Now I need to install hardbacker into the small alcove in my shower where the shampoo will be. The alcove is made of wood on the top and bottom and left and right. But the back of the alcove is just dry wall without any wood behind it. So my question is, how do I attach the hardbacker to the drywall without using screws. Is their an adhesive that exists that can do this n

Thief (post #213840, reply #1 of 4)

PL Premium will stick real good to close to everything.

if you had some  Redguard sitting around, I'd coat that drywall and those studs on either side.  And then, mesh tape the inside corners of the hardi nook and apply another coat of Redguard to that as well.

Tip the bottom of that nook ever so slightly.  Water sitting in there will not be good, if only for battling mold.

I never trust hardi or most other cement board backer to be waterproof.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


No hardibacker needed (post #213840, reply #2 of 4)

Installing Hardi-backer is a good idea. I don't mean to detract from what Calvin has suggested. Here's a method that works well for me. First, realize that this is a nook that, unlike the floor, won't get soppin' wet. In the attached photo I show the very same situation you have. Here's what I did. First, I sealed the entire nook with a water proofing paste specifically designed for tile work. I applied the paste in two coats.  At the bottom of the nook, where moisture MAY accumulate, I cut out and thineset-ed a thin membrane into place (It is commonly sold in 6" wide rolls and used for tile work.). My nook (photo below) is only 3.5: deep, so the membrane laps up the nook walls slightly. I could have gone without the membrane, but for absolute peace of mind I decided not to.

Now tile is laid into the nook, using thinset. If you want, you can start with a coat of thinset and let it dry....then tile. This first coat further "water proofs". I use a lazer level to guide me in laying the tile "just so".

Mel Fros

tilling_the_nook.jpg710.36 KB

Schluter makes the membrane (post #213840, reply #3 of 4)

Schluter makes the membrane (Ditra) and its bonded with thinset you have to get creative with the cutout or you need to overlap the pieces in ashingle fashion, it's great for waterpoofing but definetly more work. Redguard is quick and easy but the membrane would be the best option. There's tons of info on Ditra if you gooogle it.

Stay away from Schluter (post #213840, reply #4 of 4)

I suggest not using Kerdi- Schluter products. This German manufacturer (with outlets in the US) has not caught up with our modifed thinset products. Schuter insists that the thinset be non-modified. As you know, modified thinset has much better "grab". I did a walk-in shower with Schluter products and was less than impressed with adhesion issues. There are many American-made membranes that are modified thinset friendly. You can google problem issue with Kerdi-Schluter membranes. Just saying..

Mel Fros