I hate wearing gloves.
But the skin on my thumbs seems to be literally wearing out from years of doing this stuff, so I had to do something.
I’ve tried just about every kind of glove you can imagine — including the kind football players wear (made by Ironclad), deerskin driver gloves, nitrile, etc.
The best I have come up with so far were recommended by a contractor friend:
PLAINSMAN: PREMIUM CABRETTA LEATHER
They are made of goatskin, cost $18.99 for a two pair pack at Sam’s Club. If you size them so they fit tight, you have enough of a sense of feel so you can pick up a single 4d finishing nail — which means you can do j just about any type of work without taking them off.
The leather is obviously thin, so they wear out in about a month, and they are not much good for cold weather. But at least the cracked skin on my thumbs is not bleeding anymore. Yeah, I have used every which kind of salve, including the stuff for a cow’s udder (Bag Balm, I think it’s called).
Anybody have suggestions for other gloves that might work for me????
Replies
Wondergloves.
They are a woven cotten - fiarly tough and close fitting, that have been dipped in liquid rubber on fingertips and palms. They look geeky, but I lovwe them. Fine feel through them and the rubber keeps them from soaking up misture from damp materials. It also wears well. I get a couple weeks out of a pair and buy them in bulk to get them for less than a couple bucks a pair.
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I've worn similar types of gloves for about 8 years now....every day. I won't touch a thing in my truck without those gloves on. My hands are as soft as a babys #### and they don't hurt any more.
The kind I use have dots...rubber dots everywhere. I pay $10 per dozen.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
I would be interested in hearing about gloves that will keep my hands dry. The water from rain and snow is so loaded with acid that my hands start cracking within days of getting wet (I avoid the wet as much as possible). I now rotate as many as 10 pair of gloves in a day, but I'd like to find some other winter glove that keeps that melting snow off my skin.
For those of you with cracking problems...try keeping your hands out of city water. The bleach and flouride in it is terrible...especially when you've already soaked your hands all day in acid rain. When I moved to the country on a well, I noticed a big improvement.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
the wonder gloves do it. They keep water out unless you bury you paw in the bucket.
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Thanks Piffin. I think I'm going to order a half case and give them a trial run this winter.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
Anything I can do to help put those hurricane clips on without frosting your pinkies!;)
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My fingers used to be cracked all over the place all winter. Now, they have lost some calus but no more cracks and splits.
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I have the same skin thing--eventually I had to go to a doctor to find out why all the skin around my right thumb was disintegrating, cracked and bleeding all the time. They gave me some cortisone cream to get healed, then a lactose-based cream for regular use. Best hand cream ever. Bag balm is greasy, as is lanolin, and all the pretty-smelling creams out there. This stuff works, it's called Lac-Hydrin. When I got it several years ago it was only available in the US by prescription, but a friend in Canada brought me a few bottles. Now it's available in the US in a slightly weaker version.
As for gloves, I like both the CLC and Ironclad gloves. They only last a couple of months, and don't like solvents, but are still worth the price for the combination of dexterity and protection they allow.
Last winter I used up a couple pair of Ironclad's Cold Condition gloves; I heard they have a new version this year that I will have to pick up soon.
I have been wearing Kinco pigskin gloves for several years. My greatest fear is that they will stop making them. The pigskin is as supple as high quality leather, but holds its shape better. They are tougher than goat skin, deer skin, and leather. There is a summer version which I wear until it gets to about 28 degrees. The winter version has worked fine to around zero. I have not tested them working below that.
The summer version is thin and gives a great sensitivity that has not hindered me in any way on any job. The winter version is insulated and much thicker with an elastic seal. You can still handle all framing tools with these gloves on.
The summer glove has a bright orange perforated section on the back of the hand with a fluorescent yellow stripe. It is cooled well and comfortable even in hot weather. I have not had a splinter when wearing these gloves. The only place here in the Kansas City area that carries them is the Jeffries Ace Hardware farm store.
The summer gloves cost $6.47 and the winter version is about a buck more.
I framed an 1800SF house virtually alone on one pair of gloves this spring. I have never had a splinter while using these, although a sharp metal splinter from a valley W flashing did get me about three weeks ago. I plan on wearing out one pair per month when I am continuously employed. The winter gloves last about three times as long. I keep four or five pair as backup. At about $2.00 per week for the summer gloves, this is one of the best investments I have ever made.
I second the wondergloves. For $2 a pair, they still last a while. Not too hot in the summer, but still decent for winter. The rubber coating tight on the skin actually helps keep body heat in. Even in the really cold I've worn those under a heavier pair for added insulation.ADH Carpentry & Woodwork
Quality, Craftsmanship, Detail
The absolute best gloves that I have ever used as a framer are these http://www.lfsinc.com/atlasgloves/graphics/370.black.large.web.jpg They are made by Atlas Work gloves (which also make a white cotton blue palm glove that we also used to really like and use). These things are great in the winter. They aren't designed to keep your hands warm (but if you have the right thermals and are wearing a hat, your hands are more likely to stay warm), but for framing they are amazing. I used them a few weeks ago to set up a footing and we use 6d duplex nails to nail our footing boards together and to the stakes. No problem grabbing and holding the nails. The other guy working with me has been framing for 25years and tried the gloves for the first time and couldn't belive how nice they are. I stole a pair from his van today :-)
Everyone on our crew uses them now and loves them and they are about $5 a pair. I keep a pair for about a month before the coating starts to rub off and they stink. I haven't washed them yet, I just use the stinky ones when it rains.
Here is the website that I found them on today, our lumberyard carries them.
http://www.lfsinc.com/atlasgloves/work.htm
I don't use gloves that often, but when I do, I also like the rubber coated cotten gloves - actually I think some of the ones I have are some type of kevlar - not sure
I really like the added grip.
Haven't settled on a specific brand yet, but, when I have to lift a bunch of cabinets into a house or carry sheetrock - the rubber grip makes the job much easier,
and I don't have to spit on my dusty calloused hands just to get a grip
I'm with tim on the atlas nitrile gloves... except for welding or keeping your hands dry, these gloves are about all you need. Atlas also makes a "thermal" glove (quite a bit thicker) which are quite warm. Of course, I'm in western washington where it rarely gets below freezing, just rains alot. The atlas nitrile gloves are made from some kind of synthetic cloth which wont soak up water like cotton does.
Ian
Gotta love western WA eh?:-) I'm in Port Orchard, near Bremerton. Where are you located?
Just north of Olympia, In Boston Harbor (about 60 inches of rain a year.)
I can get a 1/4" long screw out of that tiny change pocket in my jeans, while wearing those things. Or out of the regular pockets...I can pick up a dime.They are VERY good gloves.The coating on mine always turns yellow and red, and then starts flaking off. I think it's the acids in my skin. But they do last for at least 6 months before that happens.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
Thanks to you all.A few questions:PIFFIN / HOOK: I did a google search and found the Wonder Gloves, but they have many different models. Which have you found the best for your work? Do you mail order them or buy locally?MIKE MAINES: Is the OTC Lac-Hydrin better/stronger than Cortaid, which I understand is also a cortisone cream? Cortaid seems to work better for me than any of the lanolin based stuff. LES: turns out I am familiar with the Kinco thermal lined gloves for winter use; but do you have a model number for the unlined Kincos you use during the summer? TIMUHLER / LUKA / IAN: Is it the AtlasFitâ„¢ model 300 you are talking about (first glove on the website Tim linked?Thanks again for your help.
The next time I get down to Jeffries, I will buy a few more pairs. I'll get the number then.
I tend to organize things in my shop to the point where the labels get stripped off of what I have and dumped. This is so that when I need a pair of gloves, all I have to do is put them on.
Les Barrett Quality Construction
They are at the bottom of this page:
http://www.lfsinc.com/atlasgloves/BreathablePalmFitAtlasWorkGloves.htm
They're model 370 "nitrile tough." They really are just a good as everyone is saying, especially when you need to work with small parts.
Ian,Thanks for info. Apparently, they don't sell direct to consumers; I emailed asking who sells them in my area. Do you have a favorite mail order source?
You should be able to find them at most feed and farm supplies. I have yet to see a lumberyard without a display of them. And they are also in big stores like Fred Meyers.I get mine at the lumberyard or farm supply.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
BTW: On my cardboard tag it says 370BK X-LARGE.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
Yep -- that's the model # I wrote down (from the link). Strange, I guess, but most of the yards I frequent have a very thin-to-none supply of non-building materials. I live in the middle of MSP, so there aren't any farm stores in the vicinity. I drink milk, though.They're probably around here somewhere; I'll just have to start opening my eyes more.thanks again.
If I recall correctly, the doctor I went to said it's not good to use cortisone-based creams any longer than necessary because it can actually make your skin thinner.
I haven't used Cortaid so I can't say how well it works; the cortisone cream I had was by prescription, and I only used it until my hand was healed.
Now when my skin starts to get rough I use the Lac-Hydrin and they're healed in a day or two.
Here they are.
http://www.wondergloves.com/prod01WG.htmThat quarter case price of $40 + 9 for shipping is better than I remember.
Only works out to $1.25/pair.
The full case works out to 94 cents /pair.One of the best values I've ever seen in work wear.
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Thanks a lot. When I did the Google search, this site must have been buried at the back of the line.Ordinarily, I wear a large in gloves. but I assume you want these things to fit tight, so I will try the mediums. Does that seem right?
I just read the label on mine. I normally wear a large glove in leather. These are large too and fit fine and snug with no slippage.That rubber coating is labeled a Latex, so I guess that means for anyone allergic to latex, they should look elsewhere.
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Those types of gloves are also great when you are working in a wood shop handling slipery sheet stock like MDF or melamine. You can push it across the table saw a lot easier.
During my time as a machinist we used to use a specialized tape.
Gloves were seen, rightly so, as a hazard as they could easily get caught and pull a hand into a machine. Also gloves, even the ones touted as allowing 'good dexterity' are pretty poor on this count when dealing with small parts.
The tape would be applied to the flats of the fingers, between the joints. The tight material didn't offer much chance of being caught. The tape wasn't very strong tensile wise and if a strip got caught it tore off easily. In this role they worked well in protecting the fingers from cuts and cuts from cutting oils and metal shavings.
Seeing as that you only mention a localized problem, your thumbs, this tape would seem to be a possible solution.
A lot of people mention skin drying. Used to get this a lot when I worked as a laborer pouring concrete by hand. A solution that worked for me was to get a pair of cheap cotton gloves. Leaving the job I would wash my hands and slather on a thick coat of Bag Balm or Corn Huskers lotion.I then put on the gloves for the drive home. By the time I got home the lotion had mostly been absorbed.
Seemed to help a lot.
Have you purchased any of the Plainsmen gloves lately? I loved them but Sams stopped selling them in Maine. Get them while you can.
t
They were gone for a while, but they're back now. Stocked up last week (in MN).
I just happen to be in San Antonio Texas. I just called the nearest Sam's but they no longer sell them. Maybe they will bring them back.
Re: Plainsman glovesHere is the link for the gloves via Sam's online (sized down here to fit the frame):http://tinyurl.com/3pwphIf you do an advanced search (on this site) for your ZIP code, you can find out if any of the stores in your area carry the glove. They are listed as "not available" online, but they did list the stores in my neck of the woods that are stocking them.In Sam-speak, they are listed as "Plainsman brand cabretta gloves"I like these a lot, but it sounds like either the Wonder Gloves or Atlas gloves would be even better (and easier to come by).
Thanks for the link. I will see if I can run some down.
t
If you can't find any locally, let me know. I would be glad to pick up however many you want here and send them on to you.
I really like the Ansell Hyflex gloves for light work. I think they would be just the thing for the chaffing that was mentioned in the lead post for this thread. I find I seldom have to take them off. I can tie my shoes, button my pants, and pick up individual deck screws with them on - can even get some change out of my pocket if I squirm a little bit. (still have to take them off to pick my nose, however...) I have been using the "Lite" version. They run a little over $3 a pair at my local safety store. The problem is that a sharp shard from a steel stud can cut through them. I just bought a couple of pairs of the Kevlar based Ansell gloves. Haven't had an occasion yet to see if a sharp steel edge will cut through them. Suppoedly they are much more resistant to cutting than the nylon based ones. I think the Kevlar was $1 per pair more, or something like that. They aren't the thing for the upcomming winter season, however, as they don't really have much insulating value.
Thanks. This is still another glove I've not heard of. They seem pretty similar to the Wonder gloves mentioned earlier. We have a big glove distributor in this area, and I am going to go over there and see what they have. AND TO ALL -- THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP, and my hands thank you too............
nikkiwood, you mention a big glove distributer in your area, and I have gathered that you are in MN. I live in St. Paul.
Mind sharing the name of the glove distributer and where they are located?
Thanks,
Shoeman
Re: glove distributor in MNThat would be MINNESOTA GLOVE, in West St. Paul, on Marie Street, just off Robert.Here's their website for more complete info:http://www.minnesotaglove.com/Default.asp?cookie%5Ftest=1You will find the gloves under "personal protection" (among categories on the left hand side of the home page).If you are looking for something specific, it would be easiest to give them a phone call. Since United went out of business, it is one of the better places I know about for Carhartt stuff too.
Edited 11/23/2004 7:37 pm ET by nikkiwood
Thanks for the link.
Will have to check them out some time.
Thanks again,
Shoe
To all,
I have used those gloves Piffen mentioned----they work OK but they have some draw backs----------first---maybe its just me----but they make my hands REEK----I meean they smell BADDDDDD----like rubber and sweat and something really nasty.
Plus they seem to conduct the cold from a gun right through the glove----my gun hand freezes while my other hand is OK.----I have half a bag of these gloves left that I save for nasty messy jobs or for helpers.----By the way we call those gloves SMURF gloves.
Before the smurf gloves I used what we called spider man gloves-----bright orange yellow with a rubber web on front and back-----great grip, but they never fit right.
I am currently using a pair of gloves I bought from Duluth trading company------I think they are shown in this months catelogue on page 99.-----I have been using one pair for 8-9 months. Used 'em for a lot of shingling----one small hole worn in the left middle finger tip.----a bargain at about $20
Stephen
Nikkiwood,
I just back to Maine and checked on line and it appears a near by Sam's Club has them in stock again. I am going up to check. I wanted 10 pair for a Christmas gift for a friend. If I can not find them, I may take you up on your very kind offer. I may try some of the other gloves that people are raving about for my self. I will still keep some Plainsman around any how. I hope you and your family had a Happy Thanksgiving.
T
I looked around locally, and have not been able to find the Wonder gloves or the Atlas gloves recommended -- but I did find some knock-offs. They're okay, but they don't form to your hand the way the Plainsman gloves do (which I attribute to the goatskin). And of course, the Plainsman gloves wick up water, so they're pretty miserable to wear in damp conditions. The others do much better in that regard. If you do want me to send them to you, just email me through this forum, and let me know size/quantity. I'll ship them off to you, and you can send me a check when they arrive. I think I mentioned the local Sam's was selling them for $18.99 for a two pair pack.
I lose mine all the time (can't stand wearing gloves either), so I just keep 2-3 pairs of cheap (under $2) leather-palmed, canvas-backed work gloves in my tool bag. That way I don't care if I wreck them mucking with a sewer pipe, etc.
If I'm doing something like hauling block I'll look for a slightly heavier pair, but still the same style.
For cold weather, go to an up-scale bicycle store and buy "glove liners". These are generally navy blue, thin knit polypro fingered gloves. Anywhere from $2-10 a pair, depending on brand. They fit fine under just about any other sort of glove, and are remarkably warm. And they're so thin that you can pick up a coin while wearing them. The main downside is that they snag easily.
I keep a pair shoved in the pockets of all my jackets.
Have ordered quite a few pairs from them, good service, great selection.
http://www.gemplers.com/