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  • In a reply to Mystery Odor
    DanH's picture
    4 hours 2 min ago

    You're not earning a lot of fans by spamming.  You appear to have a product some folks here might be interested in, so instead of spamming why not open a new thread in the "Tools for Home Building" section to describe it and solicit questions?

  • In a reply to Mystery Odor
    Matthew Barry's picture
    4 hours 13 min ago

    Climent can have a major impact. I remeber a very similar smell in my 60 year old house in New England.

  • In a reply to tool recommendation
    Matthew Barry's picture
    4 hours 16 min ago

    .

  • In a reply to filler for red oak hardwood floor
    roadrunnerdiy's picture
    6 hours 11 min ago

    If you got a name, I'd apprecate it.

  • In a reply to filler for red oak hardwood floor
    roadrunnerdiy's picture
    6 hours 12 min ago

    Is there a brand of wod filler you think is better? the big box stores by me see to carry whatever they can get cheapest.


    For the gaps, I guess it just my bad picking of boards in the area after I had nailed them down.

  • In a reply to filler for red oak hardwood floor
    roadrunnerdiy's picture
    6 hours 14 min ago

    Thanks. Sorry, the boards are 5-17 " long  not wide. Yes, many are "poorly fitting" bad tolerances I guess. I'm just a dumb H.O. (better home maintenance man- there is always something to do on this 1920's house!) so they look too short to warp though on the longer pieces I did notice a few.  I used a hand floor nailer which in many cases fixed the issue.

    Oh boy, yes I learned the hard way on expansion/contraction. The flooring I put in the LR by the wood stove really dried out.

    If I were to use 'fine' saw dust, what type of glue is recommended?

  • In a reply to filler for red oak hardwood floor
    michael mahan's picture
    11 hours 11 min ago

    I've always used past wood filler mixed with very fine sanding dust to fill the grain and very fine gaps. Your gaps appear to be a little large for that. How did you end up with those? There should be Plastic Wood type product that should match your oak pretty closely. You need to be sure that the gaps are filled all the way to the bottom.

  • In a reply to Problem with continuous (over the post) handrail
    michael mahan's picture
    11 hours 19 min ago

    I can't retrieve my password after a crash so it's a new me.

    42" is the latest Calif. code. I just assumed that that was because it was IBC. It's in the code in italics. Maybe that means a local  variation?

     

    mike mahan

  • In a reply to Using a hammer
    gfretwell's picture
    21 hours 17 min ago

    I have heard of this "hammer" thing. It is some kind of Amish nail gun or something.

  • In a reply to filler for red oak hardwood floor
    cussnu2's picture
    23 hours 58 min ago

    I used paste filler over my entire floor prior to staing and it looks fantastic 10 years later

  • In a reply to Problem with continuous (over the post) handrail
    DoRight's picture
    1 day 2 hours ago

    With regard to teh photo you are in error.  Teh distance between the camera and the lowest part of teh shirt board is greater than the distance between teh camera and the top of the shirt board and the railing is closer to the camera at all points, therefore there is an illusion. Very hard to explain, but het photo can not be used to determin whether the railing is at teh same slope as teh stairs.  AND the top of the railing does not appear to be fully set on the newel which makes the illusion even worse. 

    And that would be one sorry stair builder to screw up on the slope. 

  • In a reply to Concrete floor interior with wood deck exterior?
    DanH's picture
    1 day 2 hours ago

    It is possible to make a ground-level wood deck/patio, but it requires considerable care, and the life of the wood will be limited to 20 years or so (except in dry environments).  All framing should be foundation grade treated, and the decking must be exceptionally rot-resistant -- tropical wood, high-grade treated, or plastic.  Used to be you could use redwood, but decent redwood is scarcer than hens' teeth.

  • In a reply to Laser distance meters.
    wilma78's picture
    1 day 4 hours ago

    I got a Bosch GLM 50c. This laser distance meter works well with an app to draw plans and use photos for sketches. Maybe this review is of worth for you: http://www.laser-distance-measurer.com/b...

  • In a reply to Using a hammer
    wilma78's picture
    1 day 4 hours ago

    Which round end do you use? the iron or the wooden end?

  • In a reply to heat loss
    wilma78's picture
    1 day 5 hours ago

    In my opinion it is pretty much energy. I would go for the Velux.

  • In a reply to Skil saw dado kit
    mapcon's picture
    1 day 6 hours ago

    yes i have used this and back in the day when i used to piece frame in southeren Calif. It wasa the greatest saw i could ever want to own. I would be able to cut a roof in 1/3 the time of cutting it the standard method.So if you have done any type of piece before then you know time is money.It is not a saw for the newbe or the homeowner  as a matter of fact we had given it a nickname of "THE BONE CRUSHER" with that being said you should understand just like any saw it demandsyour utmost respect while useing it . i have found the key behind it is to let the saw do the work take your time and pay attention to your work. 

  • In a reply to New in here
    DanH's picture
    1 day 6 hours ago

    Well, it's pretty incompetent spam.  No web sites or company names have been mentioned.

  • In a reply to filler for red oak hardwood floor
    oldhand's picture
    1 day 7 hours ago

    You can certainly make custom hole filler with cobinations of fine sawdust, glue, water and paint to tint. Or use ready made filler with custom tint. It's easy to make a palet of different color fillers to make it more real.

    The paste over the whole floor thing is probably about filling the tiny pores, not as popular as once was and a waste of time mostly, IMHOP. Sounds like you want to gap fill along side poorly fitting boards. There are no good simple answers here but the basic picture is that probably it won't work. There are exceptions but generally floor boards will expand and contract enough over the course of a year to squeeze out the filler. Sounds ugly, no?

    If I'm getting this right, 5-17" wide boards? Such wide boards are not usually used partly due to the expansion/contraction issue. I'd recommend a little more research for you, just bear in mind you are  [it sounds like] behind the 8 ball.

    I've had log in issues myself so don't feel too bad there.

  • In a reply to Problem with continuous (over the post) handrail
    wmheinz's picture
    1 day 7 hours ago

    I have seen no changes to the IRC for railing heights in residential construction...  I just checked with my local Building Dept and they knew nothing about any changes.  42" is required by the IBC for commercial construction.  I also did a quick google check and found nothing...  Are you sure?

    I also don't think the railing is parallel to the tops of the stair nosings.  I think the OP willl find different heights.  I think the installer made the handrail slope to meet the guard rail along the edge of the balcony to avoid an up-turn.  i have done hundreds of stair drawings, and in my experience, there's no way for the handrail to meet the top of the guard rail when the top riser is at the edge of the landing.  In other words, the surface of the landing or balcony has to project out into the stairway ±6" to get the two to meet. 

    Also, when drawing a perspective, there are "vanishing points" (also applies to photographs).  In 2 and 3 point perspectives (this picture is a 3 point), all of the lines that are parallel in real life will taper to the same point.  In other words, if you extended the lines that make up the railing, the tops of the risers, the bottom of the stair way, the opposite skirt board, the top of the sloping wainscot, etc. to the left, they should all meet at the same point.  All of them do except the handrail.  There can be distortion in photographs, but it distorts the shapes (it bends the lines or shapes because of the curvature of the lense) but doesn't wildly change the characteristics of the vanishing points. 

  • In a reply to Ice dams and insulation
    florida's picture
    1 day 12 hours ago

    The juntion between the wall and eaves is the most critical spot to insulate well. Your problem is that there just isn't room for enough fiberglass insulation there to stop air flow. I think your only option is to pull the drywall down at the edge and have as much closed cell spray foam blow in as they can get in.