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  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    oldhand's picture
    52 min 42 sec ago

    Counting up here, looks like I have 38 experience mostly in Arkansas and have very rarely seen drywall not nailed to the trusses.

    It can be made to work.

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    gfretwell's picture
    1 hour 17 min ago

    Some builders will do anything to save a few bucks I guess. This is literally a few bucks too.

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    florida's picture
    1 hour 41 min ago

    I've never seen drywall installed directly on trusses. All the houses I've worked on had 1 x 4" s  24" on center for the drywall to hang from. Low spots can be quickly shimmed in line. 

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    cybertoad's picture
    3 hours 34 min ago

    Yep, premanufactured trusses. I have some pictures that I took before the drywall went up. I'll have to see if there is something else they're nailing to on the right-hand side other than the trusses.

  • In a reply to Framing Wall On Top of Sagging Floor Joists
    mark122's picture
    5 hours 59 min ago

    Unless you see a problem with your joist then you more than likely are assessing the problem correctly. I also live in an old house (1904) and althoughy I have addressed most of the floor issues in the house a little bump or dip doesn't bother me either.

    If the dip doesn't bother you then I would  frame the wall conventionally and make up the gap where you top plate meet your blocking. 

    Putting in a beam to gain that dip back would be simple since you are looking at your crawl space, another benefit to putting a beam in would be to eliminate the bounce you more than likely have  when you walk across the room.

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    mark122's picture
    6 hours 24 min ago

    Is the roof built with trusses? I know you mentioned trusses but it would be hard to imagine a truss crowning that bad. The times I have seen this is when the framers are either to lazy or to inexperienced to look for the crown on ceiling joist...

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    cybertoad's picture
    8 hours 27 min ago

    Here is a better picture to illustrate the problem. If it were just a raised area, I wouldn't have an issue, because that could be filled. But if you look toward the right hand wall, that area droops down about 1/2 - 3/4 inch off-plane (probably closer to 3/4") and is the lowest point of the ceiling. Ironically, on the other side of the room, the same thing occurrs, so the whole room has an ever so slight "dome" effect.  (See the new photo for better illustration.) So, to actually "level" the ceiling, they would have to put about 5 gallons of mud the middle 70% of the ceiling.  As others have pointed out, the builder probably will NOT budge on this, but I'm not going to give up without trying. My issue goes back to the crown molding though -- to me, if the ceiling is so off-plane that I can't properly install crown molding, it is a defect in workmanship and, as such, lowering my property value, especially if it's something that a home inspector may potentially flag on a future resale of the property.

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    gfretwell's picture
    9 hours 36 min ago

    You put your finger right on the problem. They did not fur/shim the bottom of the trusses before they put up the drywall and you got what the truss manufacturer sent them.

    If the job super is not willing to fix it, I doubt it will be fixed unless you threaten not to close until they do.

    Then it will depend on whether they think a year of delay (or whatever the case would take in court) is worth more than simply doing it right. They do have the option of simply giving you your money back and sending you down the road. They might believe it will be easier to sell the house again and get rid of a troublesome customer that will never be happy. That is not out of the realm of possibility and you trying to sue for "specific performance" is even more unlikely to result in a win.

  • In a reply to Software question
    bski's picture
    12 hours 54 min ago

    Hi.  I purchased Home Designer a while back for the same purposes.  I don't do a lot of designing but its a nice feature to offer.  I bought it having no computer drafting skills.  It is fairly easy to use, especially if you are just going to do simple interior drawings. They have a good support program and a forum if you get stumped.  I am getting better at using it, but I did have quite a few hours of head scratching when I got started with it.  There are so many features and options on it that the only way you could be a pro with it is if you used it every day or took classes.

    The program itself is only $500, but you also have to have a really good computer to use it on.  If you need to get a good computer for it, you should figure in another $1000 for that.  I am sure that would apply to any program you purchase, though. I also bought a larege scale printer for about $300.  The cost is like anything else.  If you use it enough, it will pay for itself.  I sold my first plan with it just because it had 3D drawings.  Transfering 3D drawings in color to an iPad is easy.  It really helps homeowners make decisions on design when they can see their furniture and cabinets and such in place.

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    MarkH's picture
    13 hours 44 min ago

    There is nothing wrong with filling a depression with compound.  It's best to start with a perfectly flat surface before mud and tape, but finishers can work with worse than that.

    Edit: I didnt read the part that that the ceiling is already finished.  It can still be redone with compound if required.

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    cybertoad's picture
    18 hours 38 min ago

    Thanks all for your input. Much appreciated.

    Just downloaded a copy of the builder's warranty, which stipulates "A ceiling made of drywall that has bows or depressions that equal or exceed 1/2 of an inch out of line within a 32-inch measurement as measured from the center of the bow or depression running parallel with a ceiling joist or within 1/2 of an inch deviation from the plane of the ceiling within any eight-foot measurement is a deficiency."

    It appears to me that there is definitely a 1/2 inch deviation from the plane of the ceiling. I will certainly know for sure when I bring a ladder and a 72" box level to the final walkthrough. 

  • In a reply to Bronze weatherstripping
    DanH's picture
    22 hours 44 min ago

    The problem with wooden doors is that they're not dimensionally stable.  If you use one with compression gaskets, for instance, the constant pressure from the gaskets bows the door until they no longer seal.  And spring brass weatherstripping depends on an exceptionally close and consistent fit which can't be maintained as a wood door shrinks and swells with seasonal changes.

    There's not really a good solution.  About the best you can do is visit a big box and pick out whatever gasket looks like it might work, then try to make it work.

    (But the scheme shown in your diagram is probably pretty good, if it's fitting well.  Might be best to try to make it work a bit better, vs removing it and trying something else.)

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    deadnuts's picture
    22 hours 56 min ago

    If you're expecting to force someone to do anything here, you'll first need to specifically describe how this cosmetic issue qualifies as an "actionable defect" under California law.  That is most likely the same question  a judge will want answered...if he or she doesn't throw your case out of the courtroom all together.

     

    BTW, slapping more mud on could qualify as a reasonable fix. However, IMO removing all the drywall to shim a high spot on a textured ceiling qualifies as ridiculous.

  • In a reply to hot roof,,,able to leave existing insulation in attic ??
    newtique's picture
    23 hours 18 min ago
    is there any place you know of for me to find what the formula's are to do the numbers. Or the title of a resource so I can get in the loop. This is my first energy retrofit,it will not be my last. I want to do it right,, why do the guides want the loose fill insulation next to the underside of the roof? Anyone out there have any ideas how to move it up there without tearing the roof off? 4/12 pitch roof leaves little room to work under. Really don't want to waste all the material that's already installed.
  • In a reply to Bronze weatherstripping
    jyang949's picture
    23 hours 25 min ago

    It's a wooden door, possibly original to the house (1932). The metal strip on the door is nailed in place.

    Janet

  • In a reply to Bronze weatherstripping
    DanH's picture
    1 day 54 min ago

    There are a number of different weatherstripping schemes, but the only one that I know works is a steel door with magnetic weatherstripping.

    The next step down from that are several vinyl weatherstripping schemes.

    Spring brass works moderately well if very carefully fit.  But it hardly ever is.

  • In a reply to Adding supports to cottage leaning on its stilts
    wmheinz's picture
    1 day 4 hours ago

    First, you need to hire an engineer!!!

    You haven't posted what part of the country you are from...big concern in snow areas because large snow load could double all the other loads of the house combined.  Or earthquake zones.  Or wind exposures.  Or exposrures to flood waters?  All of these are significant exterior forces on a structure...

    This 'foundation' (use the term loosely) has very limited lateral support and has failed.  You would want to discuss solutions with the engineer. 

    Regarding using hemlock timber cribs - hemlock is susceptible to rot and cribbing is not a very effecient way to resist the lateral forces you are dealing with. 

    If I were in a meeting with your engineer, I would want to discuss a system of new footings, treated wood columns and diagonal supports. The diagonal supports are critical to transfer the lateral stress from the house structrure to the  foundations.  I would look at the existing concrete columns as temporary support for the new system.  This way, the existing columns could be left in place until the new footings and supports are installed.  Another option would be to replace the existing columns one at a tine.  You would have to temporarily reinforce the house at this point, install the new support and then remove the temporary measures. 

    You should also consider some temporary lateral support now to protect you while working under this structure. 

  • In a reply to Bronze weatherstripping
    Norman's picture
    1 day 4 hours ago

    Much depends on how much gap is available to work with.

    The best stuff I have ever used is at http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_weatherseals_components.html.

    Less elaborate is a vinyl strip that folds into a 'V" and adheres with double stick tape if you have a small gap. If the gap is larger, there are foam strips that will fill those gaps, at least for a while. The folded vinyl lasts for 5-10 years in Chicago, it works better if you attach it with a staple gun instead of relying on the tape. Find this stuff at any good hardware store.

    I tore out the worn out vinyl V product and replaced it with a product from the above link.

    BTW, nice drawing.

    Good luck.

     

     

  • In a reply to Get a load of these footings!!
    wmheinz's picture
    1 day 5 hours ago

    I have attached a jpeg of the detail to make viewing easier...

  • In a reply to Get a load of these footings!!
    wmheinz's picture
    1 day 5 hours ago

    Here's an update on the ICF construction...amazing...

    The first floor walls are 14' tall total....12' from the first floor slab to the bottom of the first floor construction.  They are using the preformed foam floor panels as seen in some of the earlier pictures.  In the last update, there were also pallets of foam blocks sitting all over the site.  The blocks are about 12" x 16" x 48".  Turns out, these are being glued to the top of the floor panels between the preformed channels at the edges and reinforcement is added in the slab and at the bottom of these now deep channels.  Concrete is poured over the entire assembly forming a 5" thick slab and concrete "joists" at about 2' on center.  The overall height of this assembly is 24" thick of foam and concrete.  See the attached floor detail sketch.

    In addition, these slabs also cantilever 10' on all sides of the house and the "detatched" garage.  There is now a 30' wide "bridge" that connects the upper floor of the house to the upper floor of the garage.  There will be a guest house over the garage that will now be level with the upper floor of the house.  These cantilivers and bridge make up almost 4000 s.f. of exterior deck space. 

    Finally, this entire system will be duplicated again...the upper floor walls witll be 12' tall again and a 2' thick roof structure identical to the upper floor/deck with 10' cantilevers will be added - forming a roof garden almost 8,000 s.f.

    There are hundreds of 4x4 columns purchased by the owner just to support the foam floor panels as shoring.  The floor and deck concrete pour is coming next.

    Surely this is one of the most wasteful and incomprehensible efforts I have seen in a long time.  They could have completed a conventional house months ago and for less money than they have spent already.