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Anyone need coned  and ply sections devleoped. will it for free

Thanks Dan, Paul & Kdesign!
In few hours I got form you some interresting trails of thoughts...

But you know that you are not writing in my native langage and using all kind of technical words that I am lost with.
So! I need a few days to comprehende all that with my anglo-native assistant (My wife in fact) :))

But thanks a lot for your feedback!
I'll be back
Cheers!
Fred

I would consider avoiding the use of non-conductive insulation such as foam, cellulose, or fiberglass; and instead using a radiation barrier as Paul has suggested.  With no non-conductive insulation, you will not be filling up the space between the rafters. 

I would apply the foil faced OSB or some other reflective alternative to the underside of the rafters, thus enclosing the space between the rafters.  Then that enclosed space can be used exclusively for ventilation airflow to help cool the heat gain in the roofing shingles and deck. 

On a hot day with the doors and windows open, the most oppressive heat will be coming off of the roof deck and transferring to the interior objects and occupants exclusively by radiant transfer.  A foil membrane will refuse to accept the radiant heat transferred from the bottom of the roof deck.  It will accept the heat being transferred through the rafters by conduction, but that contact will be a relatively small part of the area.  And whatever heat does get transferred to the foil membrane by conduction will blocked by the inability of the shiny interior surface to emit or radiate the heat into the room.  Those ceiling surfaces will heat air by conduction, but that will tend to stay up there in a warm, stratified layer.

So you will end up with a shiny, metalic ceiling that will not be throwing heat at you.  

With this approach, you don’t have to redo anything that has already been done.  And it is probably the least costly approach besides.    

Find another company NOW. 

That tankless up here is about 3500 installed and we generally cost more than you guys down south.   Naviens literature says you will save an average of about 168.00 per year over the cost of a tank.  If you really want to spend 7g I might come down and do it and have a nice holiday at the same time.

I'm a plumber up here in the great white north and normally I get choked when people complain about the price of boilers etc.  but  7g????? for a Navien??????????????

Hi Craig,

I am new also to this forum. Last spring I installed a 5ton geothermal (running off well) in my house. Very happy with it so far!

1. Regarding your ductwork my manufacturer recommends one floor grill per 100 sqft, each with 6" supply. however, I have seen 5" used. ECM blower can be adjusted to compensate for less than ideal ducting.

2. Regarding breakers, yes you will need more room, especially if installing emergency electric backup. I think I put my geothermal pump on double 40a breakers, with double 100a for the optional electric backup.

Here is an exerp from the installation manual:

"Ductwork layout for a NORDIC® heat pump will differ from traditional hot air furnace design in the number of leads and size of main trunks required. Air temperature leaving the heat pump is normally 95º -105ºF (35-40ºC), much cooler than that of a conventional warm air furnace. To compensate for this, larger volumes of lower temperature air must be moved and consequently duct sizing must be able to accommodate the greater air flow without creating a high static pressure or high velocity at the floor diffusers."

Nathan

end quote................pity it couldn't have quote marks or be italicized or something..........................

Ha ha ha........oy vey...............insert some spanish surprise....................nope-no pkg.  I'd done looking.  If it's a bottle of water and it comes sunday morning it'll be froze and broke by spring thaw.  Christmas is over, spring hopes eternal.

Joyce got a bottle from one of the sales guys at her job-she's been really making him look good with the customers by getting the jobs squared away and out the door.  And to his credit-he's been selling jobs well.

So, how bout this stuff here?

Not perfect, not finished, but not the same.

And ps, don't go spreading the word how cool it is-don't want another bar where you can't find a table and all the pretty ones have been hit on already.

thanks.

Oh, and by the way-69 Dom was THE best!

Our current water heater was installed in 1976 -- still going.

A tankless water heater does not, in general, save money.  Only in certain special cases (eg, a weekend cabin) does it make sense financially.  There are other reasons one might install one, but if you've been reasonably happy with your current unit there's no compelling reason to go tankless.

The cost to operate even an ancient gas water heater is a pittance compared to what your furnace uses.  If you have your summer gas bills, look at them to see -- the water heater is probably about 3/4ths of the summer bill.

Since you have gas, when it comes time to replace the unit another basic gas unit is probably the ticket.  (The only thing that MIGHT be cheaper to operate than a gas WH would be a VERY expensive heat pump water heater.)  Your basic gas water heaters are quite reasonably priced.  There are some higher efficiency units you might want to consider, but the overall "environmental footprint" of the unit so small you needn't bust a gut to get the absolute best.

For an installer, while the service people on contract to HD/Sears/et al are a poor bet for more complicated work, most can replace a water heater, and do so at a reasonable (usually fixed) price.  Or you can deal with a local plumber -- it's enough of a standard job that they should be able to give you a (non-binding) quote over the phone.

As someone else stated, be aware of the usual failure mode of water heaters -- a trickle of (VERY HOT) water out of the bottom of the unit.  (Sometimes you'll hear it squirting inside before you see it.)  So long as the unit is near a floor drain this usually isn't a disasterous situation (though of course you should avoid situations where the leak may go unnoticed for several days).  If it happens, the first step should be to turn off the gas to the unit, the turn off the water feeding it.

As to the humidifier, they're nice to have (we have one here in MN) but not anywhere near a necessity.  And you only need the sump pump backup if power failures are common in your area (which I'd guess is not the case).  (Keep in mind that the backup battery will need replacing every 2-3 years, even if you don't use the unit.)

Sounds like you're tied in with a "service" company that makes each visit an experience in using scare tactics to induce you to spend big bucks on things that may not really be needed.

Regardless of that, I don't think you would come out ahead with a tankless WH.

Keep an eye on your present WH, and the first time you see any sign of a leak of rusty water, that's a signal to replace it.

What's happening then is a small rust-thru that leaks a small, not catastrophic, amount of water, and very often such a small leak will seal itself. But don't be fooled into thinking it healed itself. Shortly there will be a major leak, so get it replaced at that time.

Replace it with another one similar--a 40- or maybe 50-gallon, 40k BTU unit. You would acheive payback on the tankless at about the same time you'd need to replace it.

Even without knowing your electric rates, I can be fairly certain that gas will be cheaper, and it will certainly be faster to reheat the water, which is important with renters.

You may be able to get this done for about $1000 to $1500 if you pay a plumber to do it. DIY'ing it would cost you about $500 or $600.

The title is a link in the original post. Are you asking for the numbers in the comments to also be links?

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If you view the forum threads in threaded mode rather than flat, it is a lot easier to follow, and in fact that is how the forums were before the switch to the one that BC is modeled after.