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  • In a reply to Sawhorses, how tall?
    JLDgonzo's picture
    3 hours 18 min ago

    36 3/4" with a 20° cut on top and bottom.

  • In a reply to Replacement boiler - which technology to use?
    Norman's picture
    14 hours 19 min ago
    Find a vendor that you want to do business with and see what brands they service and suggest. BTW, I will never again use HeatMasters as a vendor after various competence issues. Good luck.
  • In a reply to Replacement boiler - which technology to use?
    Bluethumb's picture
    1 day 2 hours ago

    Have you any recommendations for manufacturer/model?  Or products to steer clear of?

  • In a reply to Replacement boiler - which technology to use?
    catmandeux's picture
    1 day 7 hours ago

    My opinion is that a condensing boiler with outdoor reset, and a variable speed Delta-T  ( temperature) is the way to go.

    The heat loss calculations, and thus the system size, are for that 1 day ( the design day)  when all the heat available is required to keep the house warm.  The rest of the heating season, the system is running a partial load.

    The outdoor reset on the boiler will control the water temperature based on the outdoor temperature, keeping the water temperature as low as possible to meet the heat load . The system is more efficient at lower temperatures, and allows the boiler to operate in condensing mode.  At the design day, when all heat is required, the water temperature may not be low enough to allow condensing, so the boiler will be operating for that period with the efficiency of a standard boiler.

    The circulating pump should be sized so that there is a 20 deg drop in temperature between boiler outlet and return.  A standard pump and balancing valves will do that with some setup time, testing and adjustment.  Easier to use a variable speed pump and adjust.  Easiest of all is a variable speed ECM pump set up  for Delta -T, and it will adjust itself.  ECM circulators are readily avaliable at reasonable price for residential use.

  • In a reply to CMU Building Foundation Questions
    DanH's picture
    1 day 9 hours ago

    In the US it's fairly normal to build a CMU foundation (with poured concrete, rebar-reenforced footings) and then pour a slab inside.  Virtually every house in this neighborhood is built this way.

    It is normal, however, to use a fiber spacer around the perimeter of the slab, to allow for some expansion/contraction.  And I suspect it would be wise to put vertical rebar in the lower part of the CMU wall and fill at least some of the cores with concrete, up maybe a meter, to make the wall more resistant to lateral forces.  (Others here are no doubt better versed in the construction details.)

    (And I suspect there are varying circumstances where you should/shouldn't have rebar extending from the foundation to "lock" to the slab.)

  • In a reply to Deck skirting
    tinkv192's picture
    1 day 14 hours ago

    What about the deck supports? You would still see them, wouldn't I? 

  • In a reply to New house extention in Surrey
    DanH's picture
    1 day 18 hours ago

    Despite what the silly spam ads may imply, this site is largely a US one.  I'm not sure we have any "regulars" in England.

  • In a reply to Replacement boiler - which technology to use?
    DanH's picture
    2 days 10 hours ago

    Do be aware that the condensing ability of a furnace is related more to the input temperature than the output temperature.  A properly designed condensing unit feeds the hot gasses one direction and the fluid to be heated (water or air) the other direction, so that the hot gas gives a "boost" to the already-heated fluid, then the somewhat cooler gas "preheats" the incoming fluid (and condenses in the process).

    So the effectiveness of the condensing action is dependent on how cool your water is coming back from the radiators.

    And note that the above "counterflow" design also applies to your better non-condensing units.  It's just that they don't allow the flue gasses to get cool enough to condense (much), since that's destructive of a conventional flue (and a bit more expensive to arrange, to boot).

    It may be that something like a variable speed water pump (coupled with a variable burner) will improve the effectiveness of the setup.

  • In a reply to Cupping Wood deck boards
    DanH's picture
    3 days 12 hours ago

    Found this online:

    Here in Peru Cumaru is called Shihuahuaco and as you say it is sold in the States as Brazilian Teak. It has nothing to do with teak, just a marketing name.
    It leaves the Amazon as decking and flooring. These guys that sell this kind of stuff on ebay with the fake names and dont explain what the wood really is should be hung. I´m sure many people buy this thinking it was plantation teak and when the peice of rock arrives that is virtually unworkable the .99 price was quite high. Another is Santos Mahogany, this also is like stone and has nothing to due with Mahogany. I´ve even seen African Purpleheart on ebay, now that would be a suprise to the scientific community.

    The thick decking stock is virtually never completly kiln dried as for 5/4 stock to dry to 6-8% moisture content it would take at least 60 days in the kiln and would not be economicly reasonable. It is usually taken down to about 20 - 30 % for decking and the 3/4 for flooring is dried to 8%. I have used it for floors in both houses and boats and had no problem with polyurethane sticking perfectly. I have never noticed an oil problem.

  • In a reply to Cupping Wood deck boards
    florida's picture
    3 days 15 hours ago

    The deck is on Fort Myers Beach so lots of moisture. It is about 8' off the ground with sand underneath. I will not be using Cumuru again. I went by again yesterday, moved all the furniture,  took another look and found it even worse than the day before. It'ds very depressing for several reasons. The customers are unhappy and I'm going to have to devote a lot of labor toward replacing the boards.

  • In a reply to Piffin
    Mongo's picture
    4 days 3 hours ago
  • In a reply to Tongue & Groove Ceiling
    DanH's picture
    4 days 4 hours ago

    It makes no difference which side of the Tyvek faces out.

  • In a reply to Tongue & Groove Ceiling
    Geoffrey's picture
    4 days 4 hours ago


    get rid of the de-humidifier! Leave the material stacked and stickered as it is, let it sit for 

    10 days or so and you will be fine. Let the wood acclimate to the building MC before you install it.

    Install the tyvek with the face facing the attic (upside down so to speak). Pre-stain ALL the 

    material on All sides.When you do the install, keep a small container of stain near your cut-

    station and finish all the cut ends before installing. Use square-drive trim head screws to

    "blind screw" the boards. Pre-drill a pilot hole!! I assume you are "blind" fastening.

    Good Luck








  • In a reply to SIP exterior siding- Tips for installing cedar shiplap or TG
    calvin's picture
    4 days 8 hours ago

    i think it's great one of the editors is spending time here.  Keep it up!

  • In a reply to Deck skirting
    gfretwell's picture
    4 days 10 hours ago

    Frame up "walls" from 2x4s and lag them up into the bottom of the stringers with the recess you desire, then skin it with the skirt material of your choice

  • In a reply to Deck skirting
    tinkv192's picture
    4 days 15 hours ago

    Both those side will be the focus, not a big fan of the vertical look. 

  • In a reply to SIP exterior siding- Tips for installing cedar shiplap or TG
    JFink's picture
    4 days 16 hours ago

    Assuming you mean horizontal siding, then yes, your plan sounds good. Make sure to provide a means for air to flow behind the siding at the top and water/air to flow out at the bottom, with both openings protected against critters using a screen or vent material.

    Check out this article for more:

  • In a reply to Cupping Wood deck boards
    JFink's picture
    4 days 16 hours ago

    I'm not clear on how your deck will be installed over a combination of a concrete slab and pavers over sand, but assuming the structural part is handled appropriately with frost-depth footings and all, then your concern becomes positive drainage to daylight. If water is going to flow and then settle by that retaining wall then I'd make sure it has a way to get from that wall to the open air so it's not hanging out under the deck. As for the question of whether gravel will still help, the principle we're talking about here, the porosity of gravel vs. sand/concrete/whatever below it will always help. In your case I'd also be considering a membrane of some kind to keep moisture from coming up through all that masonry. If you use a membrane, make sure it won't just become a swimming pool, that's the key. Stopping water vapor from coming up = good, giving water a place to pool and hang out = bad.

  • In a reply to Cupping Wood deck boards
    fpeters151's picture
    5 days 2 hours ago

    Just ot of interest, is this deck similar to mine? I'm building just 24" above grade and in quite a moist climate, albeit colder than Florida's. The deck will also be completely enclosed, virtually no air flow. 


    Homeowner, handyman. I often do a job once, enough to learn what not to do, but seldom a chance to put that knowledge to work.

  • In a reply to Unhappy customer
    DanH's picture
    5 days 7 hours ago

    Re the steps, in many areas code would REQUIRE a floor drain in the stairwell, running to the storm sewer connection.

    You may have some code violations.