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  • In a reply to Adding soundproofing/insulation to interior walls
    DanH's picture
    2 hours 31 min ago

    Note that for sound dampening you don't need to hit every stud bay.  Roughly every other bay would be sufficient.

  • In a reply to Adding soundproofing/insulation to interior walls
    calvin's picture
    3 hours 29 min ago

    cussnu2 wrote:

    You can blow in cellulose as suggested but you need to be aware that some interior stud bays are part of the HVAC system.  If that is the case, you cant insulate them with anything....

    The other thing you could do it lay off the $ tacos on Taco Tuesday......

     

    Excellent tip on the possibility of air returns etc in the reply.  It’s something professionals would look for and see but might slip their mind in an online reply.

    nicely done.

     

     

     

    .

  • In a reply to what is the best hinge jig
    mgmahan's picture
    9 hours 47 min ago

    Unless you use them all the time you need to refresh your memory every time you do (with any jigs). If i were doing a lot of work I'd use my adjustables  to make plywood jigs. I don't understand using a big router to do hinges. If I'm trying to fit a new door to an existing jamb, I'll always do it by hand; rout the center of the cutout by eye and finish with a chisel.

  • In a reply to Adding soundproofing/insulation to interior walls
    cussnu2's picture
    11 hours 15 min ago

    You can blow in cellulose as suggested but you need to be aware that some interior stud bays are part of the HVAC system.  If that is the case, you cant insulate them with anything....

    The other thing you could do it lay off the $ tacos on Taco Tuesday......

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    calvin's picture
    12 hours 53 min ago

    mgmahan wrote:

    you wouldn't feel as ripped off. Ever notice that hardwood plywood is 49 x 97

    you sure do when you load on edge into your van.....

     

     

    Here's another oddity from the past.

    In the 70's I worked for young framer who corrected me while I was crowning joists.  This was when Weyerhaeuser had labeling printed on one edge of their framing lumber.  He told me to cease fire on the crowning.......the label goes up.....pre-crowned.

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    mgmahan's picture
    1 day 1 hour ago

    you wouldn't feel as ripped off. Ever notice that hardwood plywood is 49 x 97

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    mgmahan's picture
    1 day 1 hour ago

    you wouldn't feel as ripped off.

  • In a reply to what is the best hinge jig
    oldhand's picture
    1 day 3 hours ago

    I've always prefered making plywood jigs over the factory ones myself. Even the fancy store bought ones take some tme to adjust

    and also have a learning curve. Come to think of it the plywood ones have alearning curve too, just different. 

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    oldhand's picture
    1 day 3 hours ago

    What if you needed 48 1/4''  2x4's? Every bit as likely as needing an even figure.

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    oldhand's picture
    1 day 3 hours ago

    When I began in carpentry back in the '70's 2x8 and up would vary in length from 1/4" to 5/8" long within a package. Also many or

    most of the ends were very unsquare. 2x4's had squared ends and 2x6 could go either way. We believed that any board [except

    precut studs] had to be 1/4" longer  than it was specd at so you could get 2 pieces half it's stated length out of it. Otherwise it

    wouldn't make grade. Probably a wives tale, anyway hardly relevant as how often do you need to cut pieces exactly 1/2 of an even

    length? Excepting common wall studs about all the lumber in a house is an odd measurement.

  • In a reply to Adding soundproofing/insulation to interior walls
    DanH's picture
    1 day 8 hours ago

    You could get cellulose blown in.  It would involve drilling (and then patching) holes in each stud bay.  Or fasten foam to one side of the wall and cover with another layer of drywall.  Or simply glue on another layer of drywall (without anything in-between).

  • In a reply to what is the best hinge jig
    mgmahan's picture
    1 day 9 hours ago

    I've got a B&D set now that is fairly easy to use and performs well. But, if I were doing production finish work I'd use fixed templates. You need different ones for different hinge and door sizes, but they're really easy to use and perfectly accurate. They are made from plywood with a laminate veneer. Every door done with these comes out exactly the same. I used to prehang door for the local lumber yard and these were what I used. 

  • In a reply to Using FibaFuse on walls/ceilings
    JoeJoyce's picture
    2 days 1 hour ago

    Hmmm, never thought of that, but will check it out.  Trying to NOT repair individual cracks as it will take forever...

     

    Thank you!

  • In a reply to Using FibaFuse on walls/ceilings
    JoeJoyce's picture
    2 days 1 hour ago

    Hi,

     

    Thanks for the info.  A bag mix like a plaster mix that hardens in 90 minutes, somehing like that? I cant recall the name of the 90 minute mix i have....

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    DanH's picture
    2 days 3 hours ago

    That's what wedges are for!

  • In a reply to Knotty Pine Paneling: Do's and Don'ts
    calvin's picture
    2 days 5 hours ago

    kyrral wrote:

    I will be paneling a new construction small cabin (800 sq ft) and would like some advice on paneling (mainly to keep a check on the contractor who prefers immediacey vs. shopping around. I can't fine anything online under Fine Homebuilding or This Old House. I see both pre-finish and unfinished avaialble. Advantages/Disadvantages. Are there any local (so cal) suppliers? Anything else?

    Here in NW Ohio I think I can still get the original knotty pine paneling.  The ship lapped varying widths that had the dished out portion along one edge.  Mixing the widths along the wall was traditional.

    I do know when we could it wasn’t cheap.

    What we can get readily that’s a knotty pine is what is called here-barn siding.  1x8 tongue and groove, one side beveled edges with a v-groove in the middle and the other just beveled edges, no groove.  Plenty of knots.

     

    Either one you’d be smart to stain b/4 install as shrinkage will show an unstained tongue

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    mgmahan's picture
    2 days 7 hours ago

    Suppose you needed 4' 2x4s. You'd be kind of POed if you had to buy 10' to get 2 of them plus a saw kerf.

  • In a reply to 8 foot 2x4s have 1/4” extra?
    za105's picture
    2 days 9 hours ago

    Oldhand and florida, thank you so much. That reassures me.

  • In a reply to Using FibaFuse on walls/ceilings
    calvin's picture
    2 days 10 hours ago

    Wallpaper liner is a product we’ve used in the past to solve the same problem.  My paper hanger has bailed me out on a reasonable way to hide firm but minor cracking in old plaster.  Depending on the severity of the situation, it doesn’t need a skim coat.

  • In a reply to Old Rubber Air Hoses.
    alrightythen's picture
    2 days 13 hours ago

    Thnks for reply.  That is one option.