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  • In a reply to Knee Wall/Floor Joist Support
    deadnuts's picture
    3 hours 18 min ago

    Actually, if your son is making structural changes to his home, then a permit is normally required. That being the case, then your #2 option is really the best (legal) way to "get there"*. So your advice for your son to run his idea's past a structural, bottom line, the best advice you can give him.


    *other than building to the prescriptive code contained within the 2003 IRC. I would submit, however, that if his framing condition were prescriptively outlined in the IRC, then you wouldn't be asking your original question posted in this forum.


  • In a reply to True roughcut popular 2x6 span?
    catmandeux's picture
    3 hours 35 min ago

    Both beams will support the load, but as two 2x6 beams, not a 2x12.  You  need to make a shear connection between the two beams along the entire  12'  length to get them to act as a 2x12.    You can add diagonal bracing to make it a truss, or make it a plywood/lumber box beam.  Otherwise, you might just as well put them side by side.

    The APA has free publications that explain it all.  You will need to register to download, but at no cost.

    Nailed Stuctural-Use Panel and Lumber Beams   Form Z416
    Design and Fabrication of Glued Plywood-Lumber Beams   Form S812.

  • In a reply to Uneven drywall ceiling - new construction
    deadnuts's picture
    3 hours 39 min ago

    cybertoad wrote:

    OK,  I dug up a framing picture and it's easy to see what the cause of the problem is. There is a different section of the roofline to the right-hand side, and the trusses are way out of plane -- not even resting on the top plate of the interior wall. Look at the difference in truss height. How hard would it have been to pull a plumb line and simply sister in some 2x4 or 2x6's to the sides of the uplifted trusses to get a LEVEL surface? Talk about lazy.

    You, sir, missed out on the sage advice that states "whenever you find yourself in a hole, the first thing you should do is stop digging".

    The trusses are not designed to rest (or bear) on the interior partition wall. If you look at your own photos closely you will see that the top plate is attached to each truss with a metal truss clip (similar to Simpson STC). This allows the truss to be locked laterally (in plan), but move in the vertical access with shifting roof loads (like snow) and natural setteling w/o adversely affecting the strucural integerity of your trusses. That "not resting" condition is perfectly normal. And going on about pulling a plumb line to sister joists? That's just plain crazy talk.

    IMO your framing crew did a good job...and your builder does relatively clean work. It even looks like he has installed roof sheathing with a integral radiant barrier which is above par. You, on the other hand, clearly don't know what you're talking about... and appear to be a perpetual malcontent.

  • In a reply to 12/2 MC LITE questions
    gfretwell's picture
    4 hours 40 min ago

    I suppose anything is possible but a 12ga conductor should measure 0.081" in diameter.

    If you are comparing it to the old TW wire, the insulation will be a lot thinner so the overall diameter is smaller.

  • In a reply to True roughcut popular 2x6 span?
    rrkkgg's picture
    5 hours 2 min ago

    Yes, for the length of the 12' 2x6, it would actually be a 2x12.  The extra foot or so on each end of the 14 2x6 would be a 2x6. The shear strength should be fine on the ends. Just trying to prevent a sagg.  The will only be 1x4's and metal roofing on top. Plus any snow.

  • In a reply to my house plan
    MarkH's picture
    5 hours 12 min ago
  • In a reply to True roughcut popular 2x6 span?
    sapwood's picture
    5 hours 34 min ago

    Is your intent to try to make a 2x12 or a 4x6? That is, through the 12' length. It's given that the ends will be simply a 2x6.

  • In a reply to Knee Wall/Floor Joist Support
    tednh's picture
    5 hours 57 min ago

    I believe he is using a book from Tauton Press on Framing by Pro's for Pro's.  I also sent him a PDF of the IRC 20003, that's the code used in his town.  He may also being using some other load calculators I am not aware of.

    But books and codes need to be interpeted and translated into actionable plans matched to the current structure. There are a couple of ways to get there, 1) an experienced builder who can visualize the loads and instinctively knows whatt the framing will support and what needs to be enhanced, and 2) get a structural engineer to review the plan, change it if required and sign it off.

    I have done a lot of remodeling on houses I have owned and am just skilled enough to know what I don't know about load bearing walls or major structural building elements, so not qualified to be #1 above but I can follow a plan and do the work.

    I will suggest he takes his ideas past an engineer for review before we procede with the work.

    Thank You for your reply, it made me think a moment about how the "engineering" aspect of this plan is unfolding.


  • In a reply to Couple of Weatherstriping Questions
    JIMMIEM's picture
    6 hours 40 min ago

    Because this is an existing door I would like to cut the 45 degree angle into the corner of the jamb.  Their tool sells for $160 and rents for $70.  Right now I only have one door to do so both options are too expensive.  I've made a wooden 45 degree guide for my roto zip which still needs a litle work to get it perfect....the customer service rep provided the margin of error and it is very small.  The company also has slot cutting router that what you were referring to when you said to cut a kerf? 

  • In a reply to Knee Wall/Floor Joist Support
    tednh's picture
    7 hours 17 min ago

    That is exactly a point I have made to my son. Proposed new wall is in the same place as old but with a different configuration that doesn't change much in my mind.  A lot of work to get back to the same place. But his plan for that 14' wall has an 8' wide section opened to allow the bed to be pushed back a few feet. The remaining wall space on bothe sides will be builtin shelves and cabinets floor to ceiling. That's why there will be an odd number of studs placed along the wall where there was studs 16' O.C. I have seen such designs like this and they do look nice.


    Thanks for your reply,


  • In a reply to Knee Wall/Floor Joist Support
    deadnuts's picture
    8 hours 42 min ago

    tednh wrote:

    He says the calculations for the header are good, even overkill according to the guidelines.

    What guidelines are you referring to?

  • In a reply to Knee Wall/Floor Joist Support
    mark122's picture
    9 hours 44 min ago

    you are correct in wanting to look at where you will be point loading under his design, but what is the point of opening up the wall is he is going to have his new openning broken up like that? 

    seems conterproductive...BUT its not my bedroom.

  • In a reply to Tray ceiling question
    mark122's picture
    9 hours 57 min ago

    a picture or scetch of your current ceiling would help. vaulted ceiling is way to general, and tray ceilings come in a WIDE spectrum. not knowing what you mean by vaulted, or what your tray will consist of its hard to say.

  • In a reply to my house plan
    elururajesh's picture
    17 hours 25 min ago



    I have changed the doors of the living room and bedrooms and bathroom and attached to this post. Please give comments

  • In a reply to my house plan
    elururajesh's picture
    17 hours 28 min ago

    Respected DanH,

    Please help me to present my house views through software free download, so that I can present walls, windows, warehouse, bedroom, bathroom, living room, doors etc., send link to me.

  • In a reply to True roughcut popular 2x6 span?
    oops's picture
    19 hours 57 min ago

     I'm sorry, but you really need to go back to the drawing board.  Better still go to an engineer or at least to someone that is knowledgeable about about constrution principles.

  • In a reply to True roughcut popular 2x6 span?
    Jigs-n-fixtures's picture
    20 hours 32 min ago

    There is wrong advice being given in this few posts.  Yes it works kind of, but you need to talk about the connection details with someone who really understands what is happening.

    IMHO:  If you are sheathing with plywood you would get better moment strength by making an upside down Tee.  The sheating prevents the top from buckling under compression, the bottom ot the Tee gives a wide section acting at the bottom under tension in the area where the moment load dominates.

    And, are the ends going to be strong enough in the shear zone at the ends to resist the load?

    I can't stress this enough:  Talk to an Engineer. 

  • In a reply to True roughcut popular 2x6 span?
    DanH's picture
    21 hours 9 min ago

    If you could rigidly attach the two together in that configuration (effectively glue them edge to edge) you'd have beam that is 4x the strength of a single one. 

    If you do not rigidly attach but can (eg, using multiple straps) get the bottom beam up nice and snug against the top along its full length (but there's nothing much preventing them from sliding sideways relative to each other) then you get 2x the strength of the single one.

    If you can't get the bottom member up snug then you don't really help things much.

    Placed side-by-side you get 2x.

  • In a reply to my house plan
    DanH's picture
    21 hours 27 min ago

    I would guess "storeroom" or maybe "shed" would probably come closer.

  • In a reply to Fireplace installation issue
    BossHog's picture
    22 hours 56 min ago

    Sounds like someone did something pretty stupid. But - People do stupid things all the time.

    If it were me, I'd have a fireplace pro check it out.