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  • In a reply to Hello from Matt Higgins, Fine Homebuilding Assistant Editor
    junkhound's picture
    1 min 39 sec ago

    Hey Matt - go take a look at the bridge thread, a few folks from John's delphi bt3 site (John, Forrest, Ron, self, others) have piled on to try to make that thread look a little like the 'old fhb' and gerenate some interest. 

    Lots of interaction, great photos, actual bridges built, 'flaming', different opinions, etc.  

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    ps: note intentional spelling errors, may generate additional negative comments about whatever?

  • In a reply to Roof Design and Sheer Forces on Unvented Roof with Exterior Rigid Insulation
    deadnuts's picture
    28 min 30 sec ago

    JonJaroker wrote:

    Hello, I have a question about sheer forces in the unvented roof assembly described by Martin Holladay in this FHB article from 2011.  The cross section from the article is shown below.  A similar design appears on "Cold Climates" book by Lstiburek.

    Are the beveled 2x4s shown at the eaves the only bracing to counter sheer forces created by the weight of roofing materials and snow?  Would anyone have concerns that the top sheet of plywood would sheer off the assembly?

    How can such an assembly be re-inforced without creating thermal bridges that undermine it?

    1. Are the beveled 2x4s shown at the eaves the only bracing to counter sheer forces created by the weight of roofing materials and snow?

    No. As the drawing says, they there to provide solid nailing for the fascia.

    2. Would anyone have concerns that the top sheet of plywood would sheer off the assembly?

    I wouldn't. However, someone like Mark122 that doesn't understand buidling or structure might.

    3. How can such an assembly be re-inforced without creating thermal bridges that undermine it?

    It doesn't need to be reinforced...and the detail has fully resolved the issue of thermal bridging.

  • In a reply to low rise stairs
    mike mahan's picture
    40 min 22 sec ago

    I've built landscape stairs with about 18 - 24" treads with 4" rise. I think that when the rise gets small enough the run needs to be goverened by a nice step and not the rise. Tread width needs to be such that each foot lands at the same spot on every tread. That can mean one pace per rise or two. You need to maintain a natural rythm to your gait.

  • In a reply to HVAC Questions for Apartment Above Garage...
    JavelinDesign's picture
    1 hour 9 min ago

    Thank you all for your responses! MyBuilder... 3 of the four (non door) sides of the garage are about 5 feet below exterior grade (there is an elevated yard (I've attached another photo that might shed some more light)). THe walls DO in fact get damp in area, and I'm aware there may be lead (I will test, but truthfully I think the paint is from WAY back in time). I was planning on eventually dry-locking the walls, painting with a nice epoxy-type paint and calling it a day, then finally makeing the garage "nice"... maybe even get some openers in there so we can use it AS A GARAGE! What luxury!

    If the garage does in fact get moisture, then it would even make sense to possible put a mini-split head in there too to help knock that out.. right?

    Best,

    Jay

  • In a reply to Building a bridge over creek.....NEED ADVICE!
    john7g's picture
    1 hour 48 min ago

    That was a great thread Forrest. Did it dumped during the 'improvements' here?

    Have you checked on the bridge lately to see how it's weathering?

     

    Oh wai!. I found it!
    http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/break...  

    All the photos are gone.  SMH

  • In a reply to low rise stairs
    DanH's picture
    2 hours 12 min ago

    Our deck has stairs with a 6" rise and 12" run, and that is quite satisfactory.

  • In a reply to low rise stairs
    gatno's picture
    2 hours 18 min ago

    Thanks, dan, but ive found that the rules really dont apply for under perhaps 6 1/2" rise, at which point you start to feel constrained. I checked dr google, but very little helpful there-- except one guy who said he played around a lot with his treads, and was really comfortable with 24, 25" with a 5 1/2" rise. And I've  checked some low slope stairs (outside public buildings, for example) and noted that low rise needs a good long run per step.  But havent found any "standard" ratio

  • In a reply to low rise stairs
    DanH's picture
    2 hours 57 min ago

    There are various rules of thumb.  One simple one is that rise + run should equal 18 inches.  This works fairly well all the way from a ladder to a flat walk (though there are other formulae that will produce slightly different results).

  • In a reply to Building a bridge over creek.....NEED ADVICE!
    DanH's picture
    3 hours 3 min ago

    A useful hint:  At the bottom of each post is a button that says "IGNORE USER".  I find it quite useful for blocking posts from annoying idiots.

  • In a reply to Deck stair connections and code
    gbaune's picture
    3 hours 4 min ago

    Your first riser can be made to carry the load from the middle stringer, could be a 4x between the posts/outer stringers, depending on your configuration.  You did not mention the width of the stairs? The middle stringer bottom tread would be shorter by the width of the first riser.  Here is a file with good info, not sure it is addressed specifically.


    Good Luck!

  • In a reply to low rise stairs
    oops's picture
    3 hours 28 min ago

    You might Google "Low slope-long run stair design.  Also Halting walk stair design.

  • In a reply to Building a bridge over creek.....NEED ADVICE!
    McDesign's picture
    3 hours 51 min ago

    This was fun to do - there's a thread on here somewhere - early 2008.  Built it in my yard; moved it with a ramp truck.]

     

     

     

     

     

    Forrest - used to play here

  • In a reply to Finishing T&G Pine Ceilings?
    deadnuts's picture
    4 hours 32 min ago

    I see. Sorry you had to experience the wrath of Katrina. Thanks for the additional info.

  • In a reply to Building a bridge over creek.....NEED ADVICE!
    BossHog's picture
    4 hours 36 min ago

    What got your panties in a bunch? 

    If you're not mature enough to handle it when someone disagrees with you, maybe you shouldn't be on this forum.

  • In a reply to Building a bridge over creek.....NEED ADVICE!
    BossHog's picture
    4 hours 38 min ago

    Comparing bridge beams to rafters isn't much of a comparison.

    People don't walk on their roofs every day.  They don't drive lawn mowers or ATVs on their roofs.

    The rafters are inside and out of the weather.  Bridge beams aren't.  Home made bridges tend to get left up long after they should be replaced.

     

    So I stand by what I posted earlier.

  • In a reply to Finishing T&G Pine Ceilings?
    user-4760398's picture
    8 hours 44 min ago

    The roof leaked during Hurricane Katarina.  It looks like someone tried to bleach out the spots and it worked to some degree, however there were still water marks on the cedar beams and collars.  We decided to go with a walnut stain to hide the damage.  The roof is a hot roof with rigid foam insulation and skylights.  

  • In a reply to 1920s "pressed sawdust" wall tiles
    sapwood's picture
    11 hours 5 min ago

    I don't know anything about them. But if I had to mess with them (removal, repair) I'd have them tested for asbestos first. If they tested positive, that wouldn't stop me from doing the work. It would guide my process.

  • In a reply to Smoking Substance
    junkhound's picture
    11 hours 45 min ago

    inspired by a different thread

    pretty soon dn will be along with advice on which type of chemical or biological engineer to hire to have the substance analyzed to make sure the entire town does not die since you have now exposed the substance to the air

    -- where there is smoke, there is fire? 

  • In a reply to Building a bridge over creek.....NEED ADVICE!
    junkhound's picture
    11 hours 49 min ago

    go to another thread where there is black gunk behind a closet wall that smokes when gouged with a chisel.

    Maybe the OP there needs some advice on what type of chemist (or would it be a molecular biologist) to hire to analyze the substance to make sure the entire town does not die form a chemical attack? 

     

    BTW, the dictionalry definition of "professional' means that one gets paid for doing a certain job well, not only that some gov. agency has 'blessed' them for passing a simple* test  and PAYING AN EXHORBITANT YEARLY FEE.

    * well, simple for competent folks, probably not for someone who would need to hire somone and cannot do wl^2/8=sigma*b*h^2/6 in their head for the bending components.  

    BTW2 - didja know that oriville and wilbur never had a PE?   Not even a degree? 

    BTW3 - do you ever get on an airplane?  - didja know most of the commercial aircraft wing structural designers do NOT have PE's?     ya better quit flying....

    just trying to fan the flames, put a little life back into the old place, give Matt some inspiration and resources ? 

  • In a reply to Building a bridge over creek.....NEED ADVICE!
    mark122's picture
    13 hours 46 min ago

    just at absurd comments made by clowns like you