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  • In a reply to Shingle Failures - Has anyone ever had a manufacturer back their product?
    DanH's picture
    18 min 18 sec ago

    Pretty much the norm.  I won't buy Certainteed for the same reason.  You can sometimes get a little more out of them by joining a class action, but it usually means you have to wait years for your money, and you can't replace the roof until the official inspection has occurred.

    The thing that really torqued me about Certainteed is that they continued to make the same bogus shingles for another 10 years after the problem had become obvious - probably 20 years total.  You could drive around our neighborhood and see which homes had Certainteed -- though sometimes only half a roof would be bad, with a clear dividing line between the good batch and the bad one.

    Note that in your case, like ours, the problem is probably with one of their regional plants, and shingles in another part of the country might be just fine.

    In general, shingle warranties are worthless.

  • In a reply to Excited Newbie Here!
    Adler21's picture
    1 hour 3 min ago

    Hello, i am also new here..

    Getting new new updaes and new new building and kitchen designs..

    Helpful for the builders.

  • In a reply to Kitchens For Sale UK
    Adler21's picture
    1 hour 10 min ago

    Hey i checked..Very nice designs and unque from others.

    Mostly i like Light Oak Shaker. Different from others. I would like to purchase.

  • In a reply to Fogged windows
    DanH's picture
    11 hours 59 min ago

    I've never seen such an article, but I don't follow the building trades press much.

    Some brands have been well-known to fog, others not so much.  But it changes as new technologies are used.

    The old fused-edge glass would rarely fail unless damaged (a shock at the wrong place in the frame would break the little sealed-off tube on one corner).  But fused edges were more expensive and did not work with "low-E" coating.

    The schemes with glass glued to a frame (basically all modern windows) are subject to seal failure.  And solar heating appears to be a factor in many seal failures.  I believe that some window makers attempt to have some sort of valve or expansion chamber to better handle solar heating, but these have their own failure modes.

    We have a house built in 1976, with all Andersen windows.  There are:

    • 1 sliding patio door, presumably glued-to-frame
    • 6 double-sash windows in the bedrooms (12 sashes), with fused edges
    • 2 single-sash windows in bedrooms with simple "storm window" construction
    • 2 double-sash windows in the living room (4 sashes), with fused edges
    • 2 double-sash windows in the family room (4 sashes), with fused edges
    • 1 double-sash window each in upstairs bath, kitchen, and utility room (6 sashes), with fused edges

    I count 26 fused-edge sashes total. 

    Two sashes (bathroom and living room) failed due to mechanical damage (eg, snowblower throwing a chunk of ice through the window).  Only the two upper (fixed) sashes in the family room failed for no apparent reason (and they just got bad a couple of years ago).  So 2 sashes out of 26 in 39 years.

  • In a reply to Fogged windows
    edwardh1's picture
    14 hours 7 min ago

    has there ever been an article on which windows are the most "fog up proof"? 

    its seems like an ignored part of building design.

    what causes fogging/seal failure?

    hurricanes?

    sunlight? being in a moving patio door? etc etc

  • In a reply to Rastra Block Fraud
    junkhound's picture
    16 hours 43 min ago

    whall, heer ah opens dis tread tinkin GUNNER be back wit a RASTA honky joke, guess not, too bad

    awn a mere seerius note, why wud anybody keep dat name ? 

  • In a reply to Porch Rafters to Ledger - On top or Face-Attached
    deadnuts's picture
    18 hours 56 min ago

    It may be a nice detail and was surely done in many cases in the past. However, you won't find allowances for that detail in today's prescriptive IRC. LIkely you will need a professional engineer to design and seal a timber frame connection for inspection purposes.

  • In a reply to Fogged windows
    DanH's picture
    23 hours 12 min ago

    It should be noted that some double-pane glass made prior to about 1980 is apt to have fused edges rather than the separator strip with panes glued on both sides.  Fused edge glass is less apt to fail, but if it does you can't employ a technique which drills  through the separator -- you must drill the glass itself.

  • In a reply to Rigid portable table saw problem
    DanH's picture
    1 day 13 sec ago

    I had this happen on my old 8" B&D.  Took the switch assembly apart and put it back together and it started working again.

  • In a reply to Fogged windows
    junkhound's picture
    1 day 5 hours ago

    Cost of drilling hole is only 2 minutes of your time--

    are you saying there are charlatans out there that actually Charge big $$ for drilling a 1mm hole? I would NEVER pay for a 'service' like that!

    from the link:  "assess the condition"  == 95% of the time, all new windows I'd betcha!  Charlatans!

     

    Having taken apart a number of 'fogged' windows, unless very early in the event of 'fog' the glass is actually ETCHED by an enzyme reaction, not cost effective to try to dis-assemble and polish it out.

     

    OTOH, drilling the hole does let the window outgass and the etch will be less apparent without any actual moisture condensation.  Have done a few like that until I get around to replacing the glass  (I get my glass free off craigslist from folks replacing single pane windows, (the dummies) )

     Installed 'sealed' double pane windows in 1972 in own house, was screwed i admit, every one on the south side has leaked and etched.  Of course, folks say the process is much better now than it was in '72; check again about 2045 to see how well today's process has held up, the 100th aniversary of D-day

    I've used a heat gun and box cutter to remove the entire glass assy from the frame, then remover the seal strip from the etched glass, agian with heat gun and box cutter, then with butyl rubber seal new pieces of glass and re-install.

    Except for proscribed IRC requirement (mfg screw the HO via codes again!), I'd only use storm windows and single pane on new construction for my own house now. 

  • In a reply to Rigid portable table saw problem
    calvin's picture
    1 day 7 hours ago

    but have faced that problem when a couple table saws have crapped out.

    i bypass the switch for the quick check of the system once enough voltage is verified at the source.

     

    switches on most contractor portables eventually give up.  An old Rockwell I have, had lousy replacement switches.  I mounted a handy box and residential switch on the old location to get me through a remodel.

    its still on there.

    another time on the Bosch I bypassed the switch, plugged into a surge strip and used the switch on it.

  • In a reply to Porch Rafters to Ledger - On top or Face-Attached
    coonass's picture
    1 day 8 hours ago

    I would do a haunched tenon fit into a mortise. Lag screw from top. Not hard to do and looks great.

    KK

  • In a reply to Rastra Block Fraud
    k_rastra's picture
    1 day 8 hours ago

    The RASTRA Insulated Concrete Forms is still an outstanding product in today’s market.  It is the most extensively tested ICF product available today.  Although other company Insulated Concrete Forms exist, they have not undergone the rigorous testing, plus lack decades of experience in process and application.

    The RASTRA product lines were recently purchased by Russ Ferry, President & CEO, Orlando FL and is newly registered as RASTRA Inc.  This new company strongly believes in the importance of this quality tested product and helpful customer service.  We have a policy of returning all inquiries within 24 hours.  We want our customers to be completely satisfied with our product, service, and delivery.   We are working hard to heighten the confidence of purchasing RASTRA products.

    Please contact us with any questions or concerns at:   kim@rastra.com or (407) 304-0543.   We look forward to having the opportunity of working with you on your current and future projects.

     

    Kim Connor

    RASTRA Executive Administrator

  • In a reply to Porch Rafters to Ledger - On top or Face-Attached
    deadnuts's picture
    1 day 11 hours ago

    You may want to consider concealed flange hangers. Here's an example of where we used them for an exposed framing and finish (cedar) porch.

  • In a reply to Fogged windows
    DanH's picture
    1 day 12 hours ago

    Most of the insulation value of double-pane glass is due to having the thin layer of gas between the two glass layers.  Argon works somewhat better as the gas involved, but plain old air is nearly as good.  And by the time that the window has fogged most of the argon has leaked out already.

    One downside I didn't mention is that if the windows also have a "low-E" coating on the inside, that coating may turn from clear to a sort of metalic color, as moisture gets to it.  (Sometimes this may be hard to distinguish from plain old "fogging".)  Of course, the reason for drilling the window is because there's moisture in it, so drilling will not cause this problem -- it just won't alleviate it.

    Non-coastal Canada is an ideal location for the drilling technique, since the outside air, in the cooler months, is reasonably dry.

    The theory behind drilling is that you open up a slight leak to the (dry) outside air.  As the air in the window expands and contracts from temperature changes, any moist air in the window is exchanged with dry outside air.  The rate of air exchange is (assuming a SMALL hole) not enough to affect the insulating nature of the glass, but is enough to overwhelm the slower (moist) air leakage from inside the house.

  • In a reply to Porch Rafters to Ledger - On top or Face-Attached
    daen's picture
    1 day 12 hours ago

    Greg,

    Thanks for the input. The ledger will be attached to an ICF wall (Rastra) by means of 3/4" anchor bolts cast into the wall grout. I am about ready to pour the grout so need to make the decision on what height to place those anchor bolts for the ledger.

    With the rafters on top, I would attach with appropriate hardware / brackets for uplift and then infill between rafters with short lengths of ledger material for both aesthetic reasons (looks and to hide the hardware)  AND to eliminate a potential bird roosting ledge.

  • In a reply to Fogged windows
    levassep's picture
    1 day 14 hours ago

    I'm in Canada north-east in a region where very low temperature are common in winter, minus 30 celcius (- 22 F) are common

    Also, if this process does not affect much the isolation factor of the window why in the first place put argon or other gaz in windows?

  • In a reply to Porch Rafters to Ledger - On top or Face-Attached
    gfretwell's picture
    1 day 14 hours ago

    Transferring the load straight down is always better than holding it in shear. Put them on top of the ledger.

    I would still use some kind of clip to maintain the lateral position on top of the ledger and provide uplift protection.What is the wall material?

  • In a reply to Please help with Threshold type!
    DanH's picture
    1 day 14 hours ago

    I didn't mean to look on the hinge itself, but rather on that edge of the door look for a plate or even gummd label with the manufacturer's name on it.  (Also check other exterior doors that appear to be from the same manufacturer.)  It may have been removed or painted over, of course, but there was probably something there to begin with.

  • In a reply to Looking for expert on attic ventilation / insulation just north of Boston
    JIMMIEM's picture
    1 day 15 hours ago

    Hi Ron,

    I have had the enegry audit done via the Mass Save program.  As you know it's free....it's paid for via everybody's energy bill.  They do provide suggestions and they will pay to have some of them done and will share the cost with you to have some of the other things done.  I had had an audit a few years ago prior to replacing my heating system and central a/c.  I got rebates and a 7 year interest free loan for both.  I had another audit recently and got more freebies and suggestions.  Most of what I will get and do concerns attic insulation and air sealing.  Audit takes 2 hours or so.  They'll also give you low flow water faucet and shower head aerators plus enenrgy saving light bulbs.  I had done my own attic hatch insulated cover but they want to give me a better one.