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In a reply to Gutter Drains
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In a reply to Pine Board and Batton finishing
Old painters say paint/stain all ends, edges and sides. Excellent advice. The boards should have one nail in the center, 1/4"-1/2" gap between boards and one nail in the battens, landing in the gap between the boards. Everything can then expand and shrink as they please.
What are you nailing into, with the ICF as a substrate. Just curious, had some challenges with this in the past, can't remember the brand name of the ICF that was used.
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In a reply to Gutter Drains
I have an answer. But I learned it from an engineer and confirmed it with suppliers and an installer. So I guess I can't tell you. Sorry.
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In a reply to New portable work bench with integrated table saw out feed and router table.
I have been a shop set up on site for years ,i find your stuff ok a little on the large size
its all about seconds and steps keep things close never walk around your miter saw wasted steps
and to lower the router bit to make rip cuts can be a little counter productive ,
a friend of mine built your setup recently it is big but looks fancy ,
i had said before he built it that with a crew using it it would always be cluttered inside an out when not in use ,and it is
no amount of scoulding will prvent this,its all about time if you have to remove things for another guy to use the table saw counter productive ,move stuff to use the router counter productive ,stations thats what its about
but your getting it lighter is better smaller is better ,foldable is wonderful foldable router table thats works ,
i find i cannot assemble wher we rip ,that would mean 2 table saws 2 router tables 2 assembly tables
but i really love your stuff ,
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In a reply to The $6000 House: Header Games
nice gravity holds things like this and air pressure comming from the dryer ,hot humid air rises and holds headers
,thats why you can cut out the jack stud .
sounds good to me
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In a reply to Transition from baseboard trim to structural stringer
send a picture from the bottom up ,i have an idea just need to make sure it will look nice
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In a reply to The $6000 House: Header Games
What the...
I guess it somewhat served its function for a while. I bet it was easy to remove.
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In a reply to Pine Board and Batton finishing
Stain one side, nail the board up then stain the other side and edges. Same with the battens. Keep one person staining and two installing.
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In a reply to Gutter Drains
What size are your gutters? How far apart are your downspouts? How far do the drains have to run to daylight?
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In a reply to The versatility of mini-splts
While we're repeating / re-stating / clarifying ourselves ...
Your house has different areas with dramatically different HVAC requirements. No "whole house" solution will work very well.Mini-splits, properly sized, will be effective at removing the moisture. The key is to not oversize the units- at all. Far better that they be a bit undersize.
What you're ignoring is that your basement needs LOTS of fresh air. That's how you solve basement humidity issues. Bring in the fresh air from outside, and vent the old air outside.
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In a reply to Exterior Painting - Trim first or siding first?
If you do the trim first, you'll continually be going back to touch-up - especially if you're spraying.
Otherwise, a good general rule is to do the light colors first. Most of the time, the trim is darker / more strongly colored than the field. Strong colors cover weak ones much easier than the reverse.
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In a reply to Hardie siding rattling in wind
We have just build a high quality modular home, and we have Certainteed lap siding, (cement board siding like Hardie). It DOES rattle in the wind. We are also in the west and have terrible winds, like you have reported, and just this afternoon when standing in our master bedroom, you could hear the freight train sound of the siding rattling on the side of the house. We haven't closed on the house yet, nor moved in, but this is a problem tha twe need to get rectified. If we had it to do over again, we would STUCCO the house. We had stucco on the last home and had no issues.
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In a reply to frp on painted bath wall
Don't know as all FRP is the same, but the Kalwall product works great with PL Premium, which will stick to almost anything. I'm using it to glue FRP to aluminum where the epoxy failed that Kalwall used. Only one area where Kalwall advice for their products was just plain wrong. Biggest problem for your application that I know of is long clamping time. You're also relying on your paint being sound, but you already knew that.
Always a good plan to test a small area first. Four bucks and change for a small tube of PL Premium. Contact cement is another possibility, no clamping.
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In a reply to frp on painted bath wall
I'd take a look at Henry's site-see if something pops up re. FRP. But I know I'd call Franklin in Columbus, Ohio and talk to one of their knowledgable folks-explain your job, the amount of FRP to apply etc. They do want to sell their products, but they don't sell things that don't work for your specific application.
If you used Qt. sized tubes of PL Prem..........I wouldn't imagine you'd get but 2 sheets per tube. At 8 bucks or so, how much would that cost you?
If you applied it, then combed with a notched trowel..........would that work much like using other trowel grade out of a bucket? Would it be ok with FRP? It has a short working time, so you'd have to hit'it and get'it.
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In a reply to frp on painted bath wall
Thanks for the replies. I suppose the best is to find something both the adhesive manufacturer and FRP manufacturer agree will work on a painted bath wall. The Titebond stuff is definitely the good stuff, though a bit pricey - 130 bucks for about 3 gallons. That and nobody stocks it.
Again, thanks for the feedbacks!
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In a reply to Leaking addition to solid brick home.
As strong wind can blow rain water up a shallow sloping roof.
The join, flashing of the roof to wall is very important. More so if the roof faces the prevailing wind. A steep sloping roof works best.
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In a reply to Gutter Drains
I agree.
But do the maths, roof area, maximum recorded amount of rain in your area, gutter size, down pipe size.
Can a four inch pipe cope? Note: The steeper the pipe angle, the quicker the water flow, the greater its capacity.
Make sure that the drain pipe ends downhill of your home, preferably below foundation level.
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In a reply to Leaking addition to solid brick home.
The fastening of the roof and/or some walls to the brick structure is one thing. The quality and application of the roofing product along with proper flashing techniques are another.
Can you post a picture of what you have and perhaps a drawing of what you plan to replace it with-this will help folks here to give you suggestions of what to do. Indicate the slope measurement and type of roofing.
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In a reply to Pine Board and Batton finishing
What is your problem?
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In a reply to Transition from baseboard trim to structural stringer
The best bet is always to mock up if you're like me and can't "see" something until it's right there.............
I can get ideas readily and for the most part, can "see" if it's viable...........but-if in doubt or when trying to pick the best application, I'll cut up some parts-big enough to make it visible-and temp. lay them up or tack them on, then step back for a look.
Best of luck-post the pics of your choices and we'll try to beat you two up over them.
and welcome to BT.
Ya some people are like that. Don' tknow anything and need a mother to wip their ...