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In a reply to Shed roof over deck
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In a reply to taping and mudding
I asked this same question to the fine folks at USG - Tech Help to be precise - years ago. I was told that if a new coat of readymix compound is applied to a coat which is not dry, it will not bond properly. On the microscopic level, it actually "floats" on the previous coat.
A dry prior coat actually sucks the moisture from the newer coat and pulls the new compound tighter to it thereby creating the better bond. Their actual words were "The compound needs to be dry so it can suck in the subsequent coat and create proper bonding."
Hope this helps.
Frankie
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In a reply to Is knee wall load bearing? Looking to put built-in dressers
Hi Cal, A couple of questions for you. 1 - Do the rafters in the photos land on the outside wall? 2 - Are the rafters in the photos fully sheathed or can you see into the porch roof frame? 3 - Are the pair of "rafters" on the backside of the knee wall the same as your porch roof rafters? Answers to these will help give me an idea to what you've got there. My guess is that the knee walls were never intended to carry any load. If the rafters span from ridge to outside wall and the house is of normal size, they shouldn't need/have any intermediate support. Also, if the knee walls are load bearing they would need a wall or posts and beam directly below to carry the load down to your foundation. I think the pair of "rafters" on the back of the knee wall were either an attempt to add some shear, or racking resistance to the roof frame OR if they relate to the porch roof, the framer simply laying out the porch roof intersection with the main roof. If you still want to assume the knee wall is load bearing, you can install headers in the knee wall just as you would for a door or window. If you have a 4' opening a 2"x6" header would be fine.
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In a reply to Transition from baseboard trim to structural stringer
Hi Amy, You have a 3/4" thick stair skirt board that dies into a peice of 1/2" "speedbase" (finger jointed primed pine with a base cap profile on top), and the base cap was ripped off the top of the speedbase and added to the top of the skirt board - is this right? It appears as though this is the case from the photo. If so, the best look will be to remove the speedbase that dies into the skirt board all the way back to the closest inside corner. Then run 3/4" baseboard from that inside corner into your skirt board and add your base cap back on top. The transition from 1/2" to 3/4" will be least noticeable buried in an inside corner. The small block you see alot to make this detail work to me looks terrible and just calls attention to the issue.
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In a reply to sliding closet door hardware
I second the Johnson hardware idea.
The 200 series would be plenty for a light door like this but the 400 series is available if you really want a tough hanger. I used them on the pocket doors in the kids room because they might be riding on them :)
Once you get the hangers you could frame your plywood with hardwood or extruded "U" aluminum pieces.
I really prefer wood but that might just be me. I would rip 1/4" kerfs in the edge of oak 1x2s and either miter the corners or use a mortise and tenon
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In a reply to Venting slab on grade floor
Hey Build R, I've done alot of garage conversions to living spaces. I have always used the same method of prepping the floor and never had issues with moisture or inspectors. We use 6 mil poly over the slab, frame our new flat and level floor with PT being careful not to tear the poly, fill the bays bottom to top with rigid foam, can foam the seams, glue and nail the Advantech subfloor, 15# felt, and wood floors or thinset and 1/4" durock and tile. I agree with the other posters - why vent?
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In a reply to sliding closet door hardware
Hey Ovenled, I have seen hardware that allows for two 3/4" panels to slide past each other. It's basicly a channel top and bottom of the finished opening that the panels slide in. I don't think you'll have good luck finding any hardware for such a large and thin material. 1/4" plywood of any grade really needs a frame to keep it flat. Is there any reason you have to use such a thin material? I have made 1/2" MDF slab doors on bypass rolling hardware. You could take a lood at Hafele online. They may have something slick for this application but I doubt it for the 1/4".
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In a reply to Shed roof over deck
We run into this situation alot. Sometimes with roofs and other times with outbuilding sidewalls. If we are shingling a roof or sidewall with cedar shingles and the homeowner doesn't want nails to show on the underside/inside we use 2"x6" tongue and groove spruce for the sheathing. I have never thought of the T-111 idea though. That could look nice and give you some shear strength too, whick is always a good thing.
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In a reply to Crown molding overlaps door frame
If the crown were about an inch higher you might consider running it across the door as a sort of capital. But it's too low, and it would look pretty hokey anyway.
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In a reply to water stains on wood - how to fix?
Would suggest you Goggle it before stripping.. You will find much more info. Not an uncommon phenomina.
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In a reply to Crown molding overlaps door frame
Those graphics are awesome. Thank you. We've settled on the "cope it and call it good" solution. I appreciate everyone's contributions. You are obviously good at what you do. I'll post a picture of the finished solution.
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In a reply to water stains on wood - how to fix?
Yeah, try the alcohol first. Failing that, go to a good hardware store and have them show you their collection of wood finish "repair" products -- there are a number that are moderately effective on water stains. Read the labels and pick one or two that sound good.
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In a reply to Shed roof over deck
Put something you want to look at on those rafters.
Fur up each rafter with 1/2-3/4" strips.
Put down your sheeting and shingle away.
Examples of good looking-1x8 barnsiding (v-groove) stained. The heat will cause the knots to halo-or blead through-not entirely a bogus look.............if you stain with a light, solid color stain.
Other T&G boards.
Decent exterior grade paneling if you can find it.
T-111, but be wary-the rough sawn look is a cobweb magnet.
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In a reply to sliding closet door hardware
I have not heard of it either, but would check with Johnson Hardware-they've got all sorts of slideby, pocket, bifold hardware-
or
Search for soji screens-might find something there.
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In a reply to sliding closet door hardware
I've never seen or heard of such a kit. You may have to buy a mirrored slider, remove the mirrors and install plywood instead. Probably be just as cheap as a kit anyway.
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In a reply to water stains on wood - how to fix?
Try a quick wipe with some alcohol first. There's a slight chance it could be a shellac finish and that would clean it up. If it's not shellac you'll have to stip the finish, bleach the stain with oxalic acid, sand, stain and refinish.
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In a reply to Gutter Drains
For utility drains like this, it's either corrugated or light-weight PVC. I prefer the PVC because of its smooth sides. I don't think I've ever used Sch. 40 pipe for foundation drains, nor have I ever seen it used for that.
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In a reply to Crown molding overlaps door frame
As others have commented, "cope it nice and leave it, you're the only one who'll ever see it" is probably the second best solution. The first best was to shorten the upper cabinets during the shop drawing review process.
For discussion purposes I drew a SketchUp model for a fix that is a distant third for possible solutions. The profiled end block fixes the crown/casing problem but is more likely to draw attention to the problem in the first place.
Good luck, -
In a reply to Venting slab on grade floor
That might change how I'd approach this pointless venting. I'm just sayin'...
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In a reply to Shed roof over deck
I've dealt with this situation several times by installing 5/8 in. T1-11 over the rafters with the finished face down. Then, I installed 1/2 in. OSB over the T1-11. Use 1 1/4 in. nails for the roofing. Done.
Forgot another sheetgood, Arauco beadboard.
the Long edges of this and t-111 are invisible and the butta are i
I hidden by the rafters.