Subscribe or Renew Membership Subscribe Renew

Plaster on Drywall Question

willyx2's picture

I have a home built on west coast (built 1980) and had a water pipe leak in the attic.  The insurance remediation company pulled the ceiling and dryed all walls and ceiling.  The leak is repaired and I am going to repair the approx. 6' X12' hole in the dining room ceiling.

Problem---- after looking at the wall thickness and type, I notice that the builder used 1/2" drywall screwed to the joists and floated plaster (grey color) ranging from 1/2" to 1/4" in thickness over the drywall.

How is the best way to repair this?  Can I use 5/8" drywall and  float the rest to match the existing ceiling?  Or go with what the builder used?  What is the best product to float/skim coat the ceiling to match?

Thanks in advance! 




Willy (post #206684, reply #1 of 6)

If I was called for this repair, I would:

Cut out the wires (I assume it's a wire corner reinforcement), even up the hacked up opening, fur down the joists to bring within range of either 1/2" or 5/8's board (hang board) and then tape in the corners and butt seams.  I'd never exceed the original level, but I would get the board as close to even with the existing.  You'll have to spread out the taped joint quite a ways where board meets ceiling.

Note, if I thought it necessary  I'd roll on some PlasterWeld on the existing where my repair would go.  For sure on the morter looking stuff under the white skim coat.  This will keep the old brom sucking out the moisture too quickly and also add adhesion to coats put over it.

And, in some cases, I would not cut the old board back to the center of a joist-I'd make a straight cut in the old to butt my sheet to.  Prior, I'd screw "lath catchers" - 3/4" thick plywood blocking - to the old board with part of it hanging over to catch the new sheet.  Again, it might need furred to bring it close to the proper thickness for the new and existing to plane out even.  I use strips of "drywall shims"-strips of cardboard stapled to the furring or maybe 1/4" or 3/8's ply.  Whatever works that saves me time mudding.

First tape bedding and perhaps the second coat, I'd use the original Durabond-quicker setting, harder setting and better adhesive.  Final coats with bucket mud or Easysand.  Both Durabond and Easysand are bagged powders you mix with water.  They are timed as noted on the bag.  Durabond dries hard, don't be messy or over coat-very hard to sand.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Cal, would you consider (post #206684, reply #2 of 6)

Cal, would you consider scraping back a tape margin in the (existing) plaster, to make the tape lay flatter?

Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

in a word, (post #206684, reply #3 of 6)

Nope, I would probably never do that.  I have pulled paper tape out of a normal taped drywall joint when making a repair.  Reason being, that area is already built up from the original taping.

With a repair of this nature, I try to get the plane flat board to exisiting, then tape and feather out wide.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Thanks all for the input, I (post #206684, reply #4 of 6)

Thanks all for the input, I have done more research and the use of blueboard screwed to the joist, then plastering (two coats) over that seems to fit my application.  is there a bonding agent that I should use on the blueboard and what type or kind of plaster is the choice.  After the plaster application a skim coat on top of plaster.  What product is the best for skim coat.   Im matching a smooth ceiling....well sort of, its 32 years old wtih a dozen coats of paint on it.

Got a quote of $1500.00 for the seems high

Thanks in advance

Willy (post #206684, reply #5 of 6)

since I told you how I'd do it, I'd be blowing smoke to answer you latest questions.

However, no...........I don't think you'd need to coat the bluebd with anything prior to your plaster.  As far as brand or type of plaster, go to a dedicated drywall supply and ask what they got for your application.  Here, they'd tell me straight up what would work well.

Your plaster would be your skim coat, no?

If the patch disappears, might be worth the bid.  If you can see it-nope.

Feather your last coats out over the old and then prime, using a roller thickness that most gives you the "finish" that blends well with your existing (and "dry" roll off into the existing-to further hide the patch area).

Best of luck.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Thanks Calvin, Im going with (post #206684, reply #6 of 6)

Thanks Calvin, Im going with you first reply.....sounds like a sound plan.