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Staining Concrete

Nuke's picture

Staining Concrete (post #176301)

I just got done watching the last half of an episode of Weekend Warriors, a show I've never watched before. This was an episode in which someone rather large backyard patio was enhanced with an arbor and also the concrete portion of the patio was stained.

I have seen professionals offer this as a service, much like someone would be hired for stamping concrete, but these DIY homeowners were doing the staining themselves using some sort of stain product, mixed in the yard, and applied using a common 2.5-gallon spray jug & wand.

Does anyone know where these stains can actually be purchased for DIY endeavors vs. having to pay someone else? I haven't done a Google search yet, but that is coming up right now ... :)

(post #176301, reply #1 of 20)

They were using an acid concrete stain.  Available at a conrete supply house.  Stain doesn't hold up well outdoors but is easily redone.

Check here.

She's a pro who does it but has sections on her web site for architects and builders.

(post #176301, reply #2 of 20)

Google Kemiko.  Good luck!

(post #176301, reply #3 of 20)

here mine, I did with kemiko

(post #176301, reply #4 of 20)

And what did the cost/SqFt end up being not including your labor? I love the results.

(post #176301, reply #5 of 20)

Hey mon,

You rock.  Looks great.


(post #176301, reply #6 of 20)

stain was about $180. epoxy clear about $500. $ 70 a gallon 1200 sq ft house. The stain was high due to shipping and handling, that was $50 alone.

(post #176301, reply #7 of 20)

Stain = $180

Epoxy (clear-coat?) = $500

$70/Gallon (for what?)

Project was 1200 SqFt.

(post #176301, reply #8 of 20)

the epoxy was $70 a gallon, total of $500

(post #176301, reply #9 of 20)

How did you make those 'tile' lines?

(post #176301, reply #10 of 20)

I dont know the proper name (expansion joint tool), but there is a tool that you could even find in the Depot that makes the lines. 

The original purpose is that when you create large pads of concrete, because they are just a few inches in the soil (like a sidewalk), you need to put in expansion joints.  By running this trowel over the surface, if the concrete cracks, its like a score line and will crack in that joint.  You can also edge with a similar tool. 

Here he used the joint tool for decoration.

I would assume thats what he used, but you probably could grind them in as well after the concrete is hard.


(post #176301, reply #11 of 20)

Hmm, maybe something easier ... like painting near-black lines before sealing with the epoxy so as to give a faux line. Still, my wife was intrigued by your work. Was this the first time you have ever stained concrete? What did you decide on the stain style?

(post #176301, reply #12 of 20)

Nuke, I answered the joint question,

Brown will have to tell you his method


(post #176301, reply #13 of 20)

Doh! I didn't look closely when I read that reply. I know what joint lines are for and how they are made in concrete walkways, etc.

I'll wait and see what Brown actually did and how he did it.

(post #176301, reply #14 of 20)

the joint lines are cut a 1/4 inch deep with a diamond blade in my circular saw, then grouted with a black grout

(post #176301, reply #15 of 20)

Wow, you planned for that flooring before the home was even framed!?! Now that's planning--and a lot of lot of cutting! How did you provide, safely, the water to keep the blade cool?

(post #176301, reply #16 of 20)

dry cut blade. the picture was taken after i hosed the dust off. two days cutting

Edited 3/31/2005 9:24 pm ET by BROWNBAGG

(post #176301, reply #17 of 20)

Dang, you have given me ideas for my basement. BTW, you didn't mention what stain and epoxy product(s) you used.

Edited 4/1/2005 9:48 am ET by Nuke

(post #176301, reply #19 of 20)

Doh! I need glasses.

(post #176301, reply #20 of 20)

the brown was done with a tan that I left on too long and then I deluted a black on top of it. The epxoy is a sherwin william two part kit , that I an not happy with. More info at