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wiring 240 submersible well

justinbearing's picture

Finally got the well drilled. The submersible has (4) 12 gauge wires that I need to connect the float valve to.

Here's the problem I'm running into. The float valve I'm getting from Grainger has a NEMA 615 on it, both male and female. So I plug the float valve into the receptacle and then my submersible into the female side of the 615.

If I get a NEMA 615-R it will not hold my 4 # 12s wires.

Is there a work around for this.

I don't want to direct wire the pump or the float valve as we lose our power too often and I can run the well system off our generator.

(post #75451, reply #1 of 6)

You need to back off here and give some more details.

WHY? does the pump have 4 wires?

There are two kinds of submersible pump motors. Those that have builtin starter and should only require 3 wires (2 hots and a ground).

Others require an external starting capacitor and controler. Those would use 4 wires.

And WHY and HOW are you using a float switch. There are some special reasons for pumping into an open tank with a float switch. But 97.23% of wells pump into a pressure tank and use a pressure switch to control it.

"I don't want to direct wire the pump or the float valve as we lose our power too often and I can run the well system off our generator."

I would still use standard parts and hardwire the pump and controller(s). But, at some convinet location, connect the power to the "system" to a plug and install a receptacle connected to the CB panel.

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(post #75451, reply #3 of 6)

I've not seen a 4 wire. 2 wire has the contol in the pump, and has to be pulled if it fails. 3 wire has the control box out of the well, much easier to replace when (no if) it fails...I'm not getting the float switch, either.

FWIW, my pump is a three wire, and a generator runs it just fine, when I need it<G>

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(post #75451, reply #4 of 6)

Thanks. I found my error when I went to the electrical contractor store. I have a yellow that only goes to the "pump saver." Out of that box there are only three and I can wire those with a standard NEMA 615.

so thanks so much.

(post #75451, reply #6 of 6)

Please consider this... if you are pumping into a cistern/tank for storage, buy the pump saver.  It will save you in the long run. 


What I have seen is that the people that are using storage tanks have lessor GPM and that is why the need for a tank.  Thjis is where the pump saver is necesary because they can pump the well dry and burn up their pump/motor.


The pump and labor far outweigh the cost of a pump saver.  They are easy to install yourself, too.


Just for info:       http://www.durhamgeo.com/pdf/Rem-pdf/p22-23.pdf    

(post #75451, reply #2 of 6)

It sounds to me like your pumping into a cistern as opposed to a pressure tank. If thats your case then your gonna want to wire the pump into a relay rated for the voltage and amperage of your pump, and your float switch will trigeer that relay to go on sending power to your well pump.

(post #75451, reply #5 of 6)

No. Pumping to a 1000 gal holding tank.