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wiring 240 submersible well

justinbearing's picture

Finally got the well drilled. The submersible has (4) 12 gauge wires that I need to connect the float valve to.

Here's the problem I'm running into. The float valve I'm getting from Grainger has a NEMA 615 on it, both male and female. So I plug the float valve into the receptacle and then my submersible into the female side of the 615.

If I get a NEMA 615-R it will not hold my 4 # 12s wires.

Is there a work around for this.

I don't want to direct wire the pump or the float valve as we lose our power too often and I can run the well system off our generator.

(post #75451, reply #1 of 6)

You need to back off here and give some more details.

WHY? does the pump have 4 wires?

There are two kinds of submersible pump motors. Those that have builtin starter and should only require 3 wires (2 hots and a ground).

Others require an external starting capacitor and controler. Those would use 4 wires.

And WHY and HOW are you using a float switch. There are some special reasons for pumping into an open tank with a float switch. But 97.23% of wells pump into a pressure tank and use a pressure switch to control it.

"I don't want to direct wire the pump or the float valve as we lose our power too often and I can run the well system off our generator."

I would still use standard parts and hardwire the pump and controller(s). But, at some convinet location, connect the power to the "system" to a plug and install a receptacle connected to the CB panel.

Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
. William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

(post #75451, reply #3 of 6)

I've not seen a 4 wire. 2 wire has the contol in the pump, and has to be pulled if it fails. 3 wire has the control box out of the well, much easier to replace when (no if) it fails...I'm not getting the float switch, either.

FWIW, my pump is a three wire, and a generator runs it just fine, when I need it<G>

Oh God said to Abraham, "Kill me a son"
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."

The Village Woodworks, Inc

Chapel Hill, NC


We'll have a kid Or maybe we'll rent one He's got to be straight We don't want a bent one He'll drink his baby brew From a big brass cup Someday he may be president If things loosen up

(post #75451, reply #4 of 6)

Thanks. I found my error when I went to the electrical contractor store. I have a yellow that only goes to the "pump saver." Out of that box there are only three and I can wire those with a standard NEMA 615.

so thanks so much.

(post #75451, reply #6 of 6)

Please consider this... if you are pumping into a cistern/tank for storage, buy the pump saver.  It will save you in the long run. 

What I have seen is that the people that are using storage tanks have lessor GPM and that is why the need for a tank.  Thjis is where the pump saver is necesary because they can pump the well dry and burn up their pump/motor.

The pump and labor far outweigh the cost of a pump saver.  They are easy to install yourself, too.

Just for info:    

(post #75451, reply #2 of 6)

It sounds to me like your pumping into a cistern as opposed to a pressure tank. If thats your case then your gonna want to wire the pump into a relay rated for the voltage and amperage of your pump, and your float switch will trigeer that relay to go on sending power to your well pump.

(post #75451, reply #5 of 6)

No. Pumping to a 1000 gal holding tank.