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Melamine Panel Attachment to Sheetrock

Pertz's picture

We're completing construction of a commercial kitchen,, and need to cover the fire rated rock with a washable panel product, a white glossy melamine or look alike. I haven't researched brands of that, if anyone has thoughts. The question, though, is how to attach the material to the sheet rock. We would prefer to use no visible fastners. If some sort of adhesive can be used, what's the right material and right application and fixation technique?

Appreciate any thoughts. Thanks

(post #97475, reply #1 of 19)

Sounds like contact cement is what you need.

Apply to wall surface, apply to melamine, allow time to get tacky.  Install.  Keep in mind that alignment is critical, as once two surfaces touch, you will not be able to get them apart.  Apply pressure with roller over all areas.







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No, I didn't vote for him; but he IS my president.  I pray for the his safety, and the safety of his family every day.  And I pray that he makes wise decisions.

(post #97475, reply #2 of 19)

Probably the most common commercial kitchen wall covering is FRP which is fiberglass reinforced plastic panels. many colors, designs, etc available as well as trim pieces. It installs with contact cement or a proprietary cement.

Florida Licensed Building Contractor, 50 years experience in commercial remodeling, new homes, home remodeling and repairs and all types building maintenance.

(post #97475, reply #6 of 19)

thank you all. I'll be getting fire-rated FRP's with appropriate fire rated adhesive.

(post #97475, reply #7 of 19)

Pertz, there's an adhesive made specifically for FRP by Franklin Adhesives I believe.  I have had the best luck with trowell on adhesive.  Follow instructions  to the letter and you should have a trouble free installation.  Also, to hold the trims in position as you assemble the panels, it makes it easier to staple the longer flange to the drywall.  Make sure the couple of staples are in all the way so the next sheet you slide in doesn't get hung up.  A thin, rounded edge putty knife to introduce the edge of the panel into the trim.

There are also pop rivet type anchors (drive in plastic in matching color) in case you can use them up above a drop ceiling.

And one more thing.............Run the trims all the way down the sheet.  If using cove base you can slice the top of the base line on that trim, knock off whats below with a sharp chisel.  Same goes for drop ceiling wall molding line.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

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A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


(post #97475, reply #16 of 19)


As I've had absolutely no experience installing this material, I'm having trouble visualizing what you're saying about stapling the trim. I'm visualizing that the trim is a channel like piece that slips over the long edge and has an adjacent channel to accept the next panel, or just a blank end for finishing, and perhaps a corner. If I'm in the ballpark, I'm not seeing where to staple, which suggests I have little or no idea what I'm talking about.

(post #97475, reply #17 of 19)

Here you go pertz.  This is the kemply glasbord site and the page on glasbord (FRP).  You can click on the trim link and a pdf file will open explaining all the trims available.

As to the method of stapling the long leg of the batten, imagine an H laying on its side.  The back, or part that goes against the drywall has a longer side.  I mount a panel, slip the trim in with the long leg still exposed to receive the next panel and then use a hand stapler (T-50) to put a couple staples through that long leg to secure it in place.  You have to get them in all the way so the next panel doesn't get hung up on the staples.

You will read about all sorts of battens available.  They now come with a couple bumps which auto spaces the panels preventing you from sliding them too far into the channel.  You wouldn't need to staple this as the gap is accounted for.

There's also a two pc batten.  You secure the back, snap the front onto it.  I've never seen either of these (bump or two pc) offered, but if you can order them, might be the ticket.

At any rate, go to the Kemlite site and read all about it.

Best of luck on your project.

Hold the sheetrock up off the floor for a little security from wicking moisture.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

Quittin' Time

Edited 2/20/2005 4:39 pm ET by calvin

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


(post #97475, reply #18 of 19)




(post #97475, reply #19 of 19)




Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

Quittin' Time

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


(post #97475, reply #3 of 19)

what Rick said.

You can't cover a fire rated surface with a non fire rated surface.

And they have all types of FRP. Make sure the one you get is approved and follow the directions. And the most important direction is to leave space between the panel and the vertical T molding. Once I have to remove an entire kitchen 30 x 100 and all  other storage areas-bathrooms etc.

(post #97475, reply #4 of 19)

? you didn't leave room for expansion.....had to re-do it? what?

(post #97475, reply #5 of 19)

Yes. I' didn't leave room for expansion.....How do you know that?

(post #97475, reply #8 of 19)

'cause I'm smart?.....just kidding, but I wouldn't have thought it was a problem with FRP's...

(post #97475, reply #9 of 19)

I have taken this job in an emergency call. No heat at the building.Job was done in 4 days. Beautiful job. Until the heat was turned on 2 weeks later.

And I thought I left enough space to deal with the expansion. $10.000.00 wrong.

Ok.I don't have to pay for the materials because I mention the possible problem to the GC before the installation but still, it was a big mess.

We have to remove the panels behind the drop ceiling and the ceramic cove-base. 

I'm out for today. Why do you have to remind me of this?

'cause I'm smart?.....just kidding,

I fix you up

(post #97475, reply #10 of 19)

you have my condolances....

(post #97475, reply #11 of 19)


(post #97475, reply #12 of 19)

isn't this a wonderful occupation!?

(post #97475, reply #13 of 19)

Interesting wonderful. Not only you have to deal with a "million problems" every day but you have to be "strong" and deal with the society who looks down on you for been the one who builds their houses.


(post #97475, reply #14 of 19)

I've put up melamine panels over studs and the instructions call out nails + adhesive. The product I used requires a minimum 1/8" gap between panels for expansion. The gaps are trimmed with extruded H-moldings on the flats and special corner moldings in those areas.

Melamine is non-flammable, plain FRP is flammable. One thing you should consider is melamine is not intended for wash-down areas because water wicking through seams or at the baseboard will eventually delaminate it. If the area will get wet often, you should use FRP.

Edited 2/19/2005 4:50 pm ET by TJK

(post #97475, reply #15 of 19)

Thanks. Have concluded that fire rated FRP is what we need for this environment ( kitchen at a children's summer camp). This stuff is class A fire rated and is intended for wash down. I am sure this will ultimately destroy the underlying fire rated sheetrock, but it'll be twenty years before the damage (at that point, just near the floor) is noticed and another ten before anything needs to be done about it. Since I'm 58, I can live with that...